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  2. Jasper Engines has a good reputation around here. They use to have a rebuild facility in Nashville where you could go pick them up to avoid shipping cost. That was years ago. Don't know about now.
  3. Complete and full ownership of this vehicle has been passed to me. I have full legal title to the vehicle. I am telling the story of the car in an effort to describe the car's provenance. . . .
  4. Forney Museum in Denver has the Kissel. There are very few Daniels in existence. The one you pictured is the only one I know of, and it's in Wisconsin.
  5. 1915 Ford Model T Speedster / Race Car. Car was built by the Francis A. Mesker of St. Louis in the early 1920’s. Was kept in the Mesker family till the 1980’s when it was donated to the St. Louis Museum of Transportation. I purchased the car Sept. 25, 2005 at the museum’s overstock sale. The car car runs and drives but has not run in the past few years. We plan on running it shortly. The car has had many period modifications including the original Custom built body, Rajo spindles, Underslung, House wire wheels, original 1915 motor, and too many to list, Car had original paint till repainted by the Museum of Transportation. Car is rock solid and ready to enjoy. $19,500.00 David Weber (Dweber736@aol.com) 314-941-3244
  6. Yes, there is a machine shop. I guess I can ask them to make some. Would be simpler if someone had a few of them lying around to sell; but that is probably wishful thinking.
  7. Do you have a machine shop in your town?
  8. Nope, just had a bunch of them fall out of a car last week. The exterminator has already been here and we've caught two of them (out of how many? I don't know). I get so angry at these guys bringing these cars in that they never drive and they always fill up with mice if they sit. The car smells faintly of urine, too. I had to renegotiate the deal on the spot and the guy got testy until one of the mice actually ran across the shop floor. "Who's paying the $600 exterminator bill to get rid of that?" He started to get it then. It's certainly not my preferred negotiating technique even though it did get me a substantial discount on the car this time. We have a lot of work ahead of us, including new carpets (at minimum) in that car.
  9. Odd technique. Many very interesting big trucks, but that is a very limited market these days. Most people who can even remotely handle one of these old girls already have several. And for the most part they are not all that rare. The 1920's Whites and Mack ? look especially interesting . But what a big undertaking. Greg in Canada
  10. I have the sheet music and an original full instrumental band score from the Billy May Orchestra in the archives. It's one of those songs that sticks with you and when you hear it, it's in your brain to hear over and over again
  11. I have seen some late 30's Dodge trucks with a loop and others without (mine was without) and do not know what is considered original... BTW, I did not put a loop on mine, this is a show truck only and using a straight pipe looks cleaner...if this were a driver, I would for sure put a loop in the line... Depending on my judging scores, I may change later for the sake of authenticity... So here is my take on this subject (my opinion only) So when designing modern day cars/trucks with very low internal engine part weight variances and very close tolerances with high amounts of horsepower, vibrations are nothing like they used to be, however, ridgity is still not good...things snap under tension, so today's automakers build in large amounts of plastic and rubber to absorb these shocks....in the mid '60s through the early '90s most US made cars came with the photo below....due to high amounts of twisting between the frame and the body...a shock absorber (loops) was needed to flex the twist....addtionaly the loop is used as a method to allow flex when trying to connect the lines. Notice on the photo the MC is high....and the lines run below and are usually connected to the fluid distribution block... The tube was coiled horizontally (flat) to absorb up/down twist and the line run below, to allow for air to bleed back up, via gravity... Now using the same logic for our Trucks, certainly with higher weight tolerances and minimal amounts of rubber with on some cases less than 75 hp....the location of the MC and the fluid distribution block are almost exactly horizontal to each other, with the block being slightly higher...so if you have a loop on your tube, it should be in the vertical (tall) position to absorb left/right twisting...and that the highest point of the loop is still lower than the fluid distribution block, to allow for air to be "bleed", and that the loop is still large enough to absorb and twisting from left to right.... When I rebuilt my engine, I balanced, blueprinted and Moly coated all the internal engine parts. Additionally, the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch were all balanced together, and finally, I am in the process of balancing and trueing the drive shaft...but I am sure there will be flex under torque and vibration while at speed, but again, this is going to be a show car and not meant to be driven, so I plan to keep the line straight for now.
  12. Sean, I keep seeing the abbreviation "D.F." in the parts book. Any idea what that stands for?
  13. I didn't mean to seem as if I was insulting the car, I was just talking about marketability. Correct is important, but when you want to sell a car, it's kind of a different situation. The number of guys who love these cars and know what's correct and what isn't is probably limited to the people reading this thread. Anyone else is just going to like it because they're attracted to it. It's my job to make cars as appealing as possible given what they are, that's all. If we puled the skirts and found damaged paint, it would be a judgement call that we'd discuss with the owner as to whether a simple touch-up would work or whether it would be worthwhile to repaint the fenders or leave the skirts in place. As I mentioned, skirts are one of those things that people either love or hate, and we just play the odds. Taking them off and nobody will complain but leave them on and there's a significant number of potential buyers who will not like it. That's all it is, not a personal thing or a judgement thing on my part, just going by what experience has taught me about how people buy old cars. The wheels are kind of the same situation--correct is important, but flash sells cars and if the red wheels are not technically incorrect, it would really dress the car up. Check out these two yellow cars we did recently: Admittedly, it's not a HUGE change, but the cars look a little plain with matching wheels and whitewalls--it all blends together. Just that little splash of red, even on these cars with trim rings and hubcaps and/or big hubcaps, makes a significant difference in the way the car presents at a glance--a little more definition on the wheels to make it look crisp. Little stuff like that can make a big difference and what you want is to catch someone's eye so they can't think of anything other than having that car. I always try to remember that this isn't a logical purchase--I don't sell anything anyone NEEDS. It is with that thought in mind that I think about how each car presents and how it makes a first impression. Dirty carpets, grungy engines, stuff piled on a car in a garage--that's all ideal for not selling a car because people will skip it immediately. I try to eliminate all the reasons for a buyer to say, "No," to a car and focus on making them fall in love. With most of these cars, you only have a few seconds to make an impression and get someone to stay and examine it closely. If not, they move on and you've lost them forever. We don't want to spend a lot of our clients' money, but if we can spend a few hundred dollars to either add value or marketability (not necessarily the same thing), then I think it's a wise investment. Correct is important, but if you're selling to a clientele who doesn't necessarily want or need 100% accurate, then a little flash never hurts. Please don't take this the wrong way, I was not at all criticizing Earl's Buick, which I think is just a beautiful car (I'm sentimental since one of the first cars I ever worked on as an apprentice at a shop was a 1939 Buick convertible sedan). My only thought is that it's an unusual car in a diminishing market--it needs to grab someone and really hold them and make them think about owning it. I call it the "gut punch." You guys have all felt it, I'm sure--that car you couldn't stop looking at and dreaming about owning. We try to get that effect with every car we offer and that was my intent here. Good luck with the sale, it's a worthy car. I was just sharing some thoughts that perhaps Earl and/or his dealer might not have considered that would be cheap, easy upgrades to help grab a buyer and get the car off Earl's plate.
  14. Last year I was catching 3 or 4 mice a day between all my cars and the garage. Mousetraps everywhere. Last mouse I saw was in October. A series of early very snowfalls last year---it snowed 8 times in October, a total of around 25 inches---put an end to the mice. But I thought they just went underground. They normally run around under the snow also. And they usually run around on top of the snow as well leaving tiny tracks. This winter, never saw any mouse tracks. This spring when the snow all melted, I saw no trails under where the snow was, and I have not seen a single mouse all this year even though all my traps are set in all the cars. Not complaining, but are mice extinct where you are?
  15. I didn't have much time to work on the car over the weekend, but I did manage to remove another part. This time it was the windshield wiper arms.The driver's side was easy. I just grasped the base of the arm and wiggled it off of its spline.The passenger's side needed a little more effort. All you need is a block of wood and a flathead screwdriver. Use in the manner shown in this photo and gently pry the base off.Just be sure you are not prying up the splined head and that you are only catching the edge of the base of the arm. Showing the windshield wiper arms removed from car.Overall, an easy task.
  16. Better than no pay like I work for. LOL
  17. If I thought the cars or gent was still around I would have done that for you already. Tail end of a very active time of hobbyists in my home town of west hartford, CT. Guy was in big circle of car folk, darned if i can recall his name. Brace road if you have any old directories, one sat outside as I recall. Probably long since moved down the road Seeker...
  18. I saw it on ebay and put a link in Buy/Sell https://www.ebay.com/itm/153459778686?ul_noapp=true Looks pretty good for $20k
  19. On ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/153459778686?ul_noapp=true $20k!!
  20. I also removed the fenders today. One had an amateur repair.
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