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If you have spark & fuel, then I would do a compression test. Might have a valve sticking. Just a thought.

Yes, some fiber like material. Just making sure it’s not the remnants a of gasket/packing material.

The weather forecast looks good so far. I hope will see you on Sunday (I may be too busy though with my chores ). We anticipate good turnout as for vendors, general public and classic car show. This year guys from ONDR, Ontario Nostalgia Drag Racers will be putting their cars on display.

Any old pictures of the 1 cylinder Reo bus body ? Thanks

Not a scam, but it appears to be salvage auctions covering years 1996-2024 from co-parts and IAAI auctions only

I think it largely depends on where you live... I do not have either a truck or a trailer and I've no particular interest in "touring" in a group and there are no local car shows I'd bother to go to. My car is for my own amusement. Where I live I've no problem driving it on the public roads as long as I avoid rush hour on the main roads. At some point I plan to go on one of my "adventures"...(I've done this before) where I set a destination quite some distance away and plot a course that will take me via secondary roads for two or three days or maybe even much longer. The idea is to get there and back by myself. This probably puts me on the eccentric end of an eccentric hobby.

Not much to comment on. There are only three photos, dead links at the bottom of the page, and no other content.

Love it! Full garage but tempting at that price, a smidge more than what coupes seem to be bringing for these cars.

I thought I read somewhere that the owner had hoped to donate the car to one of the museums here in Michigan. Too bad - I haven't gotten a chance to see it.

Al, the one I posted is courtesy the Library of Congress, 1923. Ed's has been publicly available but I forget from where and I am not immediately sure if a specific date is attributed or just from Harding's time.

Greetings all, I am looking for an early, relatively complete and viable project to restore. Pre 1906 Ford is ideal, but open to other marques pre 1905 please. Location not an issue. Please send me a private message on the forum and we can make contact from there. Thanks for checking out my post. Alex

Transmission was nothing special. Much smaller and lighter than what we are used to working on. The V-16 transmission last week tipped the scale at over 300 pounds. The Packard trans might have been 75…..maybe. It’s not a fair comparison to look at a 120 as an upscale car. In reality it was “average middle of the road” quality. From a value when new standpoint………Auburn was the best value. Also, remember the advancements in engineering and production at this time……..the mid size cars were really becoming much better……from a comfort, drivability, and price point. Custom cars died for a bunch of reasons……….and one was the quality of the competition at a lower price point.

If you ever get a chance, look at the welding in the frame of a Tucker. Most have been done over……..looks like a fifth grade shop class stick welded them from a rusty scrap pile. Tucker NEVER made it into production……they were all hand assembled from piles of parts……….Tucker was a barely a footnote in history. A poorly done movie that made the cars into something they were not.

I wasn’t sure if it was complete enough - big round opening in the firewall could mean a missing component.

PAV8427 - just curious how you made out with your father if you had an uncle....

Sharp looking car Phil !

Very nice...that has to be very rare, something you just don't see anymore ! Is it a 1/2 or 3/4 ton ? Looks to be two wheel drive. I remember back in the Seventies, our local volunteer ambulance corp had a suburban style International ambulance with 4-wheel drive. Steve

Yes, I have some what they call anti-rattle that I putting between metal surfaces. It's a kind of cloth tape with an adhesive on one side. The pic above was just for demonstration. of course, you have to screw the top clamp onto the dashboard before mounting the dash or you would not be able to reach the bolts way inside the dash after you install it. when I look at the side view of the strut above, it kind of looks like it might fit better if I turn it upside down. See how the slant on top doesn't line up right. Of course it might not line up perfectly if I turn it around either. Or maybe I should try putting the top strut on the back of the flange for a better fit?

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/d/vista-1959-plymouth-suburban-wagon/7739780872.html PLEASE CALL ME WITH ANY QUESTIONS AT 760 805 803EIGHT. 1959 Plymouth Suburban Wagon. This is a true one owner car with a great story and history behind it. Original Window Sticker, original Sales Contract, original owner's manual with the factory key still taped to it, vintage pictures of it's many family vacations. 318 V-8, Pushbutton automatic. Very solid car overall but does have some rust here and there. Solid floors. I have the spare tire cover. Rear window cranks fine. We got it to fire up but it has no brakes. We need the room more than we need the Plymouth. Cool old finned Mopar Wagon that is ready to take any direction you choose. Located in Vista.

Great pics. Who was the body builder it gets blurry when I zoom in.

Do you have any anti-squeak felt or rubber that goes between the flanges and the bracket (as seen on the parts car)? Without that you will probably have a squeak every time you hit a bump (from the 2 metal surfaces rubbing against each other)

Not sure I feel like sharing this one or not. Most of the collector cars I have sold were because I needed to for family reasons. There have been way too many of them over too many years, way too many I regret having sold. I scrimped and saved, bought sold and restored my way up again and again. One car, I did buy, restore, sell and later bought again. The 1925 Studebaker coach, a longtime good friend had bought, and began a restoration of the solid original car which was not quite good enough to preserve as truly original. About halfway through the restoration, he found another car he really wanted to have. He and his wife talked it over and decided if he could quickly sell the Studebaker coach they could make the deal on the other car. As I happened to be close at hand, and knowing his reputation for doing things right, I quickly agreed to buy the Studebaker in its half-done state. I then sold the 1929 Reo I had had since high school to pay for professional paint job just as he had been planning to do, and finished the body and fender repairs and preparation myself. He had already done the nickel plating and new whitewall tires, I discovered that one rear wheel was damaged, and had a professional wheelwright re-wood it. I finished some mechanical repairs and interior repairs. When done, I drove the car on a lot of local tours, including a few of a couple hundred miles. When my then girlfriend and I got married, we used the Studebaker as our getaway car from the reception. About a year later, an unexpected hospitalization hit us with a significant bill. Doing what I knew was the right thing, I sold the Studebaker to a good friend in order to pay that and a few other unexpected expenses. And so it began. I had bought the Studebaker in the early 1970s, sold it about 1979. Always regretted having sold it. But about fifteen years later, things were better, I had had a couple other nice antique automobiles which I was driving and enjoying, but heard my old Studebaker coach was coming up for sale soon. It had been owned and enjoyed by a couple different owners, and the price was reasonable. So, I managed to buy it back! Sadly, it didn't last long. Another unexpected medical issue hit us and again, the Studebaker coach was sold. Unfortunately, it wasn't the only one destined to go away for the good of the family. But it is the one that I did have to sell twice. Shortly after I had bought it back.

On Tuesday June 18 we'll be having a lunch stop in Republic, WA. That would be the closest place for you to find us. Shouldn't be too hard to find us.

@John E. Guitar kudos to you and the other board members. OP said he posted it on several group sites (probably for a number of days or weeks), yet you nailed it within 20 minutes of him posting it. This group never disappoints.

Maybe a misunderstanding, my English is not good. I drained the differential and about a gallon of oil came out. I think the oil should only be half that amount, so where that oil came? But now I have also another problem; since the outer seal has leaked, the inner seal must also leak, and I understand that the bearing located between the seals is lubricated with gerase, so it does not need this oil. When/if I also change the inner seal I have to remove the bearing, which means that it has to be replaced as well? The problem is that if you order a bearing and seal from the USA, it will take at least three weeks, while if I had the specs for the bearing and seal, I could certainly buy them in Finland quickly Anyone knows these specs (SKF -numbers)? /Timo