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Transmission was nothing special. Much smaller and lighter than what we are used to working on. The V-16 transmission last week tipped the scale at over 300 pounds. The Packard trans might have been 75…..maybe. It’s not a fair comparison to look at a 120 as an upscale car. In reality it was “average middle of the road” quality. From a value when new standpoint………Auburn was the best value. Also, remember the advancements in engineering and production at this time……..the mid size cars were really becoming much better……from a comfort, drivability, and price point. Custom cars died for a bunch of reasons……….and one was the quality of the competition at a lower price point.

If you ever get a chance, look at the welding in the frame of a Tucker. Most have been done over……..looks like a fifth grade shop class stick welded them from a rusty scrap pile. Tucker NEVER made it into production……they were all hand assembled from piles of parts……….Tucker was a barely a footnote in history. A poorly done movie that made the cars into something they were not.

I wasn’t sure if it was complete enough - big round opening in the firewall could mean a missing component.

PAV8427 - just curious how you made out with your father if you had an uncle....

Sharp looking car Phil !

Very nice...that has to be very rare, something you just don't see anymore ! Is it a 1/2 or 3/4 ton ? Looks to be two wheel drive. I remember back in the Seventies, our local volunteer ambulance corp had a suburban style International ambulance with 4-wheel drive. Steve

Yes, I have some what they call anti-rattle that I putting between metal surfaces. It's a kind of cloth tape with an adhesive on one side. The pic above was just for demonstration. of course, you have to screw the top clamp onto the dashboard before mounting the dash or you would not be able to reach the bolts way inside the dash after you install it. when I look at the side view of the strut above, it kind of looks like it might fit better if I turn it upside down. See how the slant on top doesn't line up right. Of course it might not line up perfectly if I turn it around either. Or maybe I should try putting the top strut on the back of the flange for a better fit?

https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/d/vista-1959-plymouth-suburban-wagon/7739780872.html PLEASE CALL ME WITH ANY QUESTIONS AT 760 805 803EIGHT. 1959 Plymouth Suburban Wagon. This is a true one owner car with a great story and history behind it. Original Window Sticker, original Sales Contract, original owner's manual with the factory key still taped to it, vintage pictures of it's many family vacations. 318 V-8, Pushbutton automatic. Very solid car overall but does have some rust here and there. Solid floors. I have the spare tire cover. Rear window cranks fine. We got it to fire up but it has no brakes. We need the room more than we need the Plymouth. Cool old finned Mopar Wagon that is ready to take any direction you choose. Located in Vista.

Great pics. Who was the body builder it gets blurry when I zoom in.

Do you have any anti-squeak felt or rubber that goes between the flanges and the bracket (as seen on the parts car)? Without that you will probably have a squeak every time you hit a bump (from the 2 metal surfaces rubbing against each other)

Not sure I feel like sharing this one or not. Most of the collector cars I have sold were because I needed to for family reasons. There have been way too many of them over too many years, way too many I regret having sold. I scrimped and saved, bought sold and restored my way up again and again. One car, I did buy, restore, sell and later bought again. The 1925 Studebaker coach, a longtime good friend had bought, and began a restoration of the solid original car which was not quite good enough to preserve as truly original. About halfway through the restoration, he found another car he really wanted to have. He and his wife talked it over and decided if he could quickly sell the Studebaker coach they could make the deal on the other car. As I happened to be close at hand, and knowing his reputation for doing things right, I quickly agreed to buy the Studebaker in its half-done state. I then sold the 1929 Reo I had had since high school to pay for professional paint job just as he had been planning to do, and finished the body and fender repairs and preparation myself. He had already done the nickel plating and new whitewall tires, I discovered that one rear wheel was damaged, and had a professional wheelwright re-wood it. I finished some mechanical repairs and interior repairs. When done, I drove the car on a lot of local tours, including a few of a couple hundred miles. When my then girlfriend and I got married, we used the Studebaker as our getaway car from the reception. About a year later, an unexpected hospitalization hit us with a significant bill. Doing what I knew was the right thing, I sold the Studebaker to a good friend in order to pay that and a few other unexpected expenses. And so it began. I had bought the Studebaker in the early 1970s, sold it about 1979. Always regretted having sold it. But about fifteen years later, things were better, I had had a couple other nice antique automobiles which I was driving and enjoying, but heard my old Studebaker coach was coming up for sale soon. It had been owned and enjoyed by a couple different owners, and the price was reasonable. So, I managed to buy it back! Sadly, it didn't last long. Another unexpected medical issue hit us and again, the Studebaker coach was sold. Unfortunately, it wasn't the only one destined to go away for the good of the family. But it is the one that I did have to sell twice. Shortly after I had bought it back.

On Tuesday June 18 we'll be having a lunch stop in Republic, WA. That would be the closest place for you to find us. Shouldn't be too hard to find us.

@John E. Guitar kudos to you and the other board members. OP said he posted it on several group sites (probably for a number of days or weeks), yet you nailed it within 20 minutes of him posting it. This group never disappoints.

Maybe a misunderstanding, my English is not good. I drained the differential and about a gallon of oil came out. I think the oil should only be half that amount, so where that oil came? But now I have also another problem; since the outer seal has leaked, the inner seal must also leak, and I understand that the bearing located between the seals is lubricated with gerase, so it does not need this oil. When/if I also change the inner seal I have to remove the bearing, which means that it has to be replaced as well? The problem is that if you order a bearing and seal from the USA, it will take at least three weeks, while if I had the specs for the bearing and seal, I could certainly buy them in Finland quickly Anyone knows these specs (SKF -numbers)? /Timo

If I can, I might just drive modern up to say hello! Thanks again for the kind offer!

I would love to tour with my BC friends. Thank you for the invite. Working on finding car, I should be good to go later this year. love touring in BC. Brings back great memories. i also love doing local stuff in my T. Great conversations, rides, and education with younger folks. I am excited for the future of brass car touring. Thanks Peter!

Could it be because it isn't even a manufacturer...? Afterall, the key word in the poster is "builder". As most of you know a lot of jobbers (body builders) who provided special body types were also at times referred to as "Motor Co's" but were no more than subcontractors building bodies for a diverse lineup of marque manufacturers. The list of body builder companies was endless and went on for decades.... I believe one of us will find an ad that will show this company and prove my theory, I doubt we find them to be a manufacturer in the end though. My theory is, I believe that Camden, Medford Bus Company that worked on truck names such as Oneida, White, Reo, Mack and others will be connected somehow. Key words for that ownership team are "Gick" and "Bingemann" in and around mid 1920s and I'm thinking that something caused them to focus on the location of Marlton. Just a hunch from studying other chronological and genealogical paths in the past. Lastly, I believe the era will probably be between 1929 to the mid 1950s for this builder. Can't prove it yet, but that's the path I'm heading in my research.

Couple years ago I was driving my 1919 Locomobile in the neighborhood at 20 MPH when a sudden shudder went through the entire car. After a few seconds it was over. Everything seemed normal. Later, we found a couple teeth broken off the ring gear. My pre-WW1 expert in Arizona believes it was simple fatigue of century-old metal. Fortunately, I had a new, never-used Phil Hill gearset for a replacement.

Don, since you'll be retired, how about joining us for our annual tour in Grand Forks, BC, June 17 - 20? We'd love to have you join us - 23 cars registered, all but two are brass-era. Besides a good contingent of Model Ts, we have Columbia, Ford Model K, Chalmers, Cadillac, Rolls-Royce, and TWO Canadian Russell-Knight cars (something you will not see anywhere else in the world.) Four days of great drives and interesting stops, HCCA style. To answer the question of the original post - drive the car and show in whatever way works for you. I prefer the tours but I've also taken a brass-era car (or motorcycle) to the neighbourhood cruise-in, car shows (I'm not a fan but the cars get a LOT of attention), parades, and other nearby events. I've also had them in TV shows or movies. In the last week I've driven my 1915 Russell to visit friends on Saturday, lunch on Sunday, band practice on Monday, the gas station on Wednesday ($$$) and will be in the annual Little League opening day parade on Saturday, probably in the rain. Peter Findlay, President, HCCA Vancouver Regional Group

Thanks for the quick ID! I guess it should be easy to find a new home for them then.

https://www.mecum.com/lots/1119250/1955-chevrolet-bel-air-hardtop/ 1955 Chevrolet Bel Air Hardtop (Pictured below the two following links) Mecum LOT S243 // SATURDAY, MAY 18TH// INDY 2024 265/162 HP V-8, Built to Replicate GM's 50 Millionth Automobile, Multiple Award Winner (Here's some history, if you are interested... https://automotivehistory.org/50-millionth-gm/#google_vignette https://www.autoevolution.com/news/1955-chevrolet-bel-air-is-an-unexpected-junkyard-gem-with-a-rare-feature-209055.html Chevrolet also sold 5000 "commemorative edition" sedans that are scarce today, after 70 years... The replica... Radio delete...

Very nice 37S2de. Are those chrome wheel covers?

I was hoping someone could offer some advice on my issue. We are trying to start our old Buick. I usually prime the vacuum tank and it starts. That is no longer working. The last time I got the car to start I slowing advanced the throttle to increase engine speed and it promptly stopped running. It has not started since. I know it is getting gas. I took the top plate off the carb and it has plenty of gas supplied to it from the vacuum tank. We also checked to ensure we are getting spark from each spark plug too. We turned the engine over and tested each plug. The plugs are clean and not dirty. I am at wits end. I have tried every trick I learned from my father. None are working. This car has been in my family since 1964. It has 7k original miles on it. I need to get it running and moved to a different garage since the home it has had since it was brought to Omaha is eventually going to be sold to settle an estate. Any advice would be appreciated..

1908 Black

On 4/24/24, the ad on Classic.cars.com was marked "SOLD" and Seller deleted the Facebook ad.