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These Citroén was built in France,Belgium and England.

It was a hat pin and I just took the pin off.

The other thread --> https://forums.aaca.org/topic/413442-1939-buick-special-parking-brake/#comment-2672358 The best source of pre war Buick parts is Dave Tacheny in Champlin, MN. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick parts. He is old school:- no email. The best way to contact him is to call him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427 3460. You can also write him a letter. His address is 11949 Oregon Ave N., Champlin, MN 55316.  http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/ (I may have posted the photo before)

Citroen Avants were made in Britain, but in right hand drive. Could never be "restored" but the engine and its front wheel drive~transmission probably worth a little more than its scrap value. But would be few buyers. As above suspect it is a 4 door saloon. Hard to tell for your remains, but was also made in 2 door convertible style https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/citroen/traction-avant/1938/1005908 https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/citroen/traction-avant/1938/683734 https://www.autoevolution.com/cars/citroen-traction-15-cabriolet-1939.html#aeng_citroen-traction-15-cabriolet-1939-29

1955 Chevrolet front.

Terry Y, 1. Not at all. I try to choose my words wisely, but sometimes after🍷all bets are off. I usually read and reread my posts so that I do not sound like a know it all, if I do I am depending on the team to call me on it. 2. Thank you 3. actually my shop burned down a little over a year ago and we are putting the finishing touches on the final plans now. The shop you see belongs to a close friend who happens to specialize on Prewar classic cars. I am lucky as I can help with the restoration, more in the capacity of research librarian and parts procurement, not to mention problem solving or is that problem maker! 4. a early Holsman, not mine 5. thank you again (blush, blush) 6. Right on 7. I like the way you think, kind of like if you want to boil a frog you turn the heat up a little at a time or else it jumps out. 8. It started out as a king pin problem and escalated from there. I will start a thread in restoration section 9. I have a 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado with the factory W-34 package, Olds called it forced air induction, after I explain it to most people they say Oh it has Ramair! 10. thank you again 11. I am sorry I can’t divulge anything about the other cars in the shop as they are not mine, only thing I can say is even Eddie would be impressed, think big brass and big cubes. 12. The bottomless pit was another Twelve, a true artist prepared the car for me to buy it, just remember you can put lipstick on a pig but it is still a pig! I will talk more about this one at a latter date 13. this question tells me a lot about you and others in this hobby. We really have a generous and helpful group of people. 14. Thank you.

I mistakenly sent this off to get rechromed, thinking it was for my '52 Pontiac. Didn't realize my mistake until I went to install it. Any idea what it belongs to?

I need some engine design help. This 1911 Metz has many lubrication issues and I am looking for pointers to correct the problem areas. I do not know if these are mistakes from 1911, or if someone lost some major part in this engine. This is an air cooled 2 cylinder 4 stroke. Last year of this design. 1912 is a 4 cylinder. 1 )Upon removing the cylinders, the walls were completely dry. They look like a hone will clean them up as the scratches are not deep. Should I use a hone with 3 flat stones or a hone with balls on the end of wires? There is no ridge at the top. 2) In review of the pistons, there are no oil holes behind the oil control rings. I would think maybe eight 3/16" holes would be a good idea? 3) I have never seen this style of compression rings before. 2 rings in tandem on the same groove. Was that factory or a means of filling a wide ring groove with modern compression rings? A friend mentioned that he had seen this on airplanes. Anyone else seen this? 4) piston top is dished. I have no idea if these are the original pistons, but it seems likely as even the middle ring around the wrist pin - I have not seen this type of retaining for the wrist pin. 5) I will have to check if the piston is steel of aluminum. The underside of the piston skirt looks like a pretty porous casting. The piston itself looks like pretty low mileage. 6) I also thought that a little 2 cycle oil in the gas is not a bad idea to ensure some lubrications is always available for the cylinder walls. - Although Volkswagen did not do that. Now lets get into the other lubrication issues. In 1910, this engine was splash lubricated. In 1911, Metz added a 6" deep sump and oil pump gears to one of the cam shafts. So now the problems. The oil sump is 6" deep below the engine. The camshaft is at the top of the engne. So the oil pump gears on the end of one cam have to lift the oil around 18 inches. 1/4" ID copper tubing is used from the base of the block. The oil is lifted 18 inches and then squirted onto the windage tray to do splash lubrication. In this next picture, you see the bottom of the engine for the new added 1911 sump. The 1/4" ID tubing has a piece of 3/16 " ID tubing sodlered into it, and the solder is broken. So this is just sucking air. - but. Should this have a larger tubing (rather than smaller) soldered to it, and then a check valve used so that it will maintain oil in the vertical tube after the engine is shut down? Without a check valve, you will never maintain prime. Any thoughts on a 1/4" or 3/8" check valve that would be a good candidate here? I do not know if a part was lost here, but this is not good engineering? So now, could I just convert this back to a splash only engine? The last item is the windage tray. The edge of the big end of the connecting rod just barely touches the oil level in the windage tray. I would think that maybe a piece of sheetmetal added to the big end of the connecting rod might push more oil out of the windage tray so there is more splashing and making an oil rich atmospheric environment in the crankcase. Thank you for looking at this post. A lot of effort has gone into restoring this car, and now we are trying to get it to run, but we have these serious motor problems. This is not my car but I am helping a good friend to get it to run. Hugh

I use corn head grease in some of my farm machines, I have yet to see it used in a John Deere gear box of any type. We use it in chain drive boxes with double row series 80 chain. For those not familiar the double row chain is driven by 2 sprockets close together it looks similar to a timing chain just simpler with way less parts to the chain. These drives can be used to speed up or slow down shaft speeds, also to remote power to different height levels on a big machine. I have one on a machine called a Pickett one step bean cutter / wind rower that transmits a lot of power and it gets really hot and the grease liquifies . I think it’s a great product, but in my opinion in a car you would have to pipe in heat somehow to get it to work either in steering gear or transmission. I remember reading about how people would forget to change the oil in their transmission and rear axels in areas that have sustained temperature below 0 and I believe Packard explained to its customers that they where causing a great deal of damage the first couple of miles until it could flow and lubricate

46 Ford Business Coupe?

Citroen Traction Avant.

What a great hat!

This car is probably small enough to fit in the back of a truck and It has a hand crank to start it. That’s pretty much all I can say about it. I couldn’t find any tags, names or symbols. Is it something worth going back to try and get it out of the woods and restore? I’ve posted on several groups and asked everyone I know and nobody knows what it is

Hi All, It's been a while since I posted here. Last weekend my wife and I along with a bunch of friends attended a 10 course Titanic re-enactment dinner at an Edwardian period hotel in the Blue Mountains, located 70 miles west of Sydney and 120 miles from our home on the Central Coast. The hotel was purchased by its current owner 18 months ago and is undergoing a fabulous and sensitive restoration. Of course there is a Buick angle with me in my '36, my long-term friend Dave recently buying a '37 Buick and Michael and his '41 Sedanette, all Fisher bodies,. A pleasant weekend was had by all with the Buicks out and about around the area over the weekend. Please enjoy the photos. Cheers Paul

The REC is for recirculate, as opposed to fresh air. Shuts off the outside air intake. Doesn't look Gm to me.

Also no oil crossover pipe

Without wanting to be insulting……….the last real Classic LaSalle is a 1933. And the lesser series of Cadillac’s and Buicks should have not been let in. It’s not dumping on the cars……lots of good cars are not CCCA eligible. If you have worked on hundreds of pre war cars…..you know what a true Classic is………defined by the club PRE 1986 is a good spot to start………..like everything else in this world………..standards have gone to hell. While a 1941 Cadillac 60 special is a very nice car……….its a mass produced production car without any special attributes except it’s easy to drive and parts are cheap. And, for the record…….I like the later series Caddy’s, and drive them often. They just aren’t a classic. My 34 Buick 56C is a fun car………..small in displacement, small in chassis length, has significantly fewer parts, poor fit and finish new when compared to a V-16 or a Pierce. Also……please remember, I have a 1915 Ford T………and enjoy it. It’s not a Classic.

I have 3 that are 2" However, your .08 measurement is very short. 1 if mine is 1 3/4 & other 2 are 2". Sorry, I tried 🤷‍♂️

Somebody replaced the cab with a cut off coupe body

With all due respect to those who have to worry about the gas mileage their collector car gets, maybe a different hobby would be a consideration. Catalina Sports Sedan 389 Trophy V-8 2-BBL (man. 3) Performance Review fuel consumption and mileage: average estimated by a-c©: 20.5 l/100km 13.8 mpg (imp.) 11.5 mpg (U.S.) source: https://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/pontiac/full-size_pontiac_7gen/full_7_catalina_sports_sedan/1962.html#gsc.tab=0

Thanks NailheadBob, I just made a new post because I need parts O & Q for each side, if anyone out there has available would be greatly appreciated!

I have heard that corn head oil works good in bevel gear transmissions. I also recall the same person telling me to dump a quart of automatic transmission fluid in my cars crankcase to stop valve noise. I have, and will always use 600W aka semi-grease lubricant,or steam oil in my transmissions. For years I have used CV joint lubricant in my steering gear boxes, and have yet had one to leak or fail. Jack

Actually that's a Double-Breasted Squatting Harpy with the optional flapping wings. They're extremely rare, and when you're driving more than 25 mph it emits an extremely annoying screeching noise.

Why is my 1940 Lasalle a Classic but you say the Packard 120 will never be? The reasons you give apply to the Lasalle also. The later Lasalles shared body shells with Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, and Pontiac.