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  2. I bought a near-new 2007 Lexus that had a clear plastic covering over the front 3 feet of the car. I thought it worked well for 4-5 years. But over time the film yellowed, and it also accumulated its own stone chips that could not be touched up. Eventually I had to have it removed. But the stuff was impossible to peal off. It was brittle and came apart in 1/8th-inch patches. Couldn't be done without damaging the paint. It required repainting the front clip. Not sure the film was worth the extra expense.
  3. Very nice car, interior scheme (beige/green/orange) needs some attention but otherwise a great looking car.
  4. Nice survivor but....Problem is a decently restored and running 4dr 1928 Ford can be had for circa $8K-$12K. This car would need at a minimum $12K-$16K to get it to that state, so if you got it for $1.00 you're still in the hole. I recently bought a 1929 Dodge DA 4dr Sedan with wire wheels in about this condition for less than $1000 Canadian (US$750). Got engine running properly and re-sold it.
  5. Last visit Nov. 1. Hover over his handle and you will see it in the pop-up. Quote something or send a pm so an email is sent.
  6. Just be very careful with the product you use! I tried a product called "Road Wrap" from California Car Cover and when I removed it, the car needed to go back to the body shop and be rubbed out. It was only on for about 12 hours and the product claims it can be left on "all week". I would hate to think what the paint would look like after a week.
  7. http://www.aaca.org/images/regions/2019_Newsletter_Editors__Manual.pdf
  8. My 65 Buick radio arrived today, packaged well and exactly as described. Thanks for a great deal Steve!
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  10. I'm thinking this "Dependence" company was the predecessor of Powell & Hanmer as there are very many similarities, or "dependence" is the model of P&H lamp. Powell & Hanmer sold out and became Lucas, otherwise known as "The prince of darkness". P&H was in Birmingham England and they named all of their lamps, Panther, Cougar etc. Similarities are the font and the bracket on the side and the flue is similar. -Ron
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  14. I have this pair of nickel cowl lamps. They seem to be NOS, are extremely beautiful, but have absolutely no markings on them. I'm trying to identify what they might belong to. Possibly an accessory of some type? Possibly early, late teen to mid 20s I think. Stalk mount instead of having a bracket made as part of it.
  15. I have a 1954 Cadillac CdV and just got a fresh repaint so I looking to prevent stone chips. I have thought seriously about that clear film that clings to the contours of the car. I would only be doing just the front's most vulnerable areas. I am concerned about the transition where film stops and paint continues. Does anyone have any advise or success stories? Thanks, Jim
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  17. If you have no real interest, or nothing good to add, WHY RUN YOUR MOUTH? I think some people just post to see their post numbers increase.
  18. Rodney, You can tap into the HVAC vacuum supply at the R/Rear of the intake manifold. Just get a plastic "T" fitting the correct size, I think 1/4", then figure out how your going to get it inside the car & where it's going to be mounted. Tom T.
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  20. Rich, I fully agree with Ed as far as that fuel line hose goes. It's pretty close to the alt. belt. BEFORE you remove the fan & clutch assembly see IF there is ANY play/sloppiness in the clutch by just grabbing the fan blade & give it a wiggle. IF it moves at ALL side-side it needs replacing. Replace the clutch, IF needed, with a thermal clutch the one with the spring in the center. I almost ALWAYS use a H/D clutch from an early Chev. pick-up with a 454 & A/C. If you need the part number I can supply or even get the part for you. ALSO before loosening the belts loosen the nuts holding the clutch to the pulley's. After the shroud is installed to mount the fan what I usually do is get one nut/bolt started & snugged up a little. Then turn around facing the wall & install the other three. Snug them all up, install the belts & adjust, now you can finish tightening the nuts. DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE NUTS!!!! Tom T.
  21. Today
  22. Maunrizio, Be patient & keep looking. You may have to look at a dozen or more to find what you would like, maybe even one from the U.S. I'm sure no matter where you look in the U.S. someone with knowledge would be glad to look at it for you. Maybe or maybe not for a small fee. IF I'm close enough I would even do it for you. Weight distribution on these Rivs. is pretty good for such a large car. We can get it to handle, ride & perform as well as ANY cars. My friend who bought a REAL GS is amazed at how well we have gotten it to handle & ride. He says it's close to on par with some of his older Ferrari's. The only limiting factor is the availability of tires to be even closer on par. I can supply you with parts & advice IF you chose to go that why. You would/will really be SURPRISED. Tom T.
  23. The newsletter editor's manual has been updated and is now available on Line. Look under publications on the AACA web page. I realize there are a lot of format problems with it and I plan to get these corrected with a total rewrite . The old manual was done in an old format that is not very friendly to corrections. In any case we wanted to get the technical problems corrected in time for editors to use it this year. Thanks to Matt Hinson, Fran Shore, Kim Gardner, Mark and Marion Mcalpine , and Pat Buckley for all their work in making it happen. If you have any additions or corrections please contact me directly so we can fix it with the rewrite . Thanks to you all! David Anspach VP Publications
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