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  2. I can count to 20 if I take my shoes off. Higher if I take my pants off.
  3. Regarding your #4 point, it will be longer than that. Biggest hurdle will the liability issue. And also, IMO, there will be a need for integration with smart infracture, ie traffic lights, intersections etc.
  4. Are 1929 La Salle wire wheel caps the same - that is Buffalo #5?
  5. I can't read through 18 pages and have not followed this thread but I'll throw my two cents in cause that's what discussion forums are all about 😉 1. I'm total old school when it comes to cars. I self identify as a "car guy" and the internal combustion engine is what makes a car a "car". 2. I despise the Prius and would MUCH rather drive a 1 ton diesel truck around town if given the choice. 3. Elon Musk is a genius for many reasons, but the easiest one to understand is he built an electric car that isn't a complete embarrassment to be seen in (see #2). 4. Within 25 years we will all be driving Electric cars and for the most part they will be driving themselves. I hope I'm wrong about #4, but don't think I am. Dis-intermediating the source of energy from the delivery (i.e. gas vs electricity) is an inevitable step for vehicles.
  6. The small electric plane arrived on Saturday from Amazon, so I had a go with it on Sunday morning, shaping a strip to fit to one of the bows. It worked well. I think this is the first time I have ever used any sort of plane! (I'm a metal work man, if you can't solder, braze or weld the material I don't normally want to know!) I have sussed out how to fit the new strips of wood. I will make a jig first to hold the metal frames each side parallel to each other. I will then take the metal frames, complete with the bows off the car, bolt them to the jig, glue and screw the new shaped bits of wood to the bows. Then remove the screws after the glue has set and plane and sand the bows to shape. As John Mereness said, if I am not happy with the result I can always have them covered with material. At least the steaming project was a very interesting learning curve for both Robert and myself. As you can see from the shadows the weather was very sunny. Sorry that they hide my lines of the shape the fillet for the bow should be. On the rear bow the rivets in the hinge mechanism was stopping the metal frame screwing right up tight against the wooden bow. I marked the position of the rivets, on some masking tape, attached to the bow and unscrewed the bow. I then drilled a couple of indents into the bow to accommodate the 'sticky out' part of the rivet. By the way, that's a technical term! After screwing the rear bow back onto the metal frame I fitted a ratchet strap to get the two metal frames parallel to each other. . . . . then clamped my shaped fillet onto the front bow just to see how it fitted. Next job tomorrow is to make the jig so I can work on the bows off the body.
  7. Today
  8. I didn't look it up but assuming this is an original SC car I think it will bring some decent coin. Although the market is going away from restoration projects. I mostly agree with John's comments. The age of the back yard restorer or tinker is passing and these cars require someone patient enough to sort them. My dad has owned his car for almost 55 years and restored it himself in the 1960s. He went back and forth from Mass to Auburn twice in the late 60s. Never had a problem then or since. Of course, I'm probably jinxing things. Curt is also correct, once you get the transmission setup correctly, everything else is pretty standard.
  9. Modified cars are always tough to value. The guys here don't have any interest and hot rod guys are purists for mostly Ford. If you want to sell it, my advice is to your best ad together and put it on ebay.
  10. Holy Cow, that must be some kind of record. I notice no Fords. Do you have nightmares about termites?
  11. The nickel plating kit that I bought from Frost included the power supply that had the variable control combined into it. It plugged into the UK 240 volt standard mains socket. Below are some details from an advert on the Frost website. TO USE YOUR PLATING KIT, YOU WILL ALSO NEED Common Plating Module which includes: A 10 litre tub, Power Supply, Variable Control Unit, Suspension Rods, Support clips, Crocodile Clips, Dust Mask and Gloves. This Nickel plating kit requires the electrolyte to be about 30degrees, so we have included a tank heater. Other contents are 2 bags of Nickel Salts, Nickel Anodes, Scouring Powder, Test Kit and Instructions. The main reason that I went for the Frost kit was that it included the Power supply and controller. Some of the other kits I looked at used a 12 Volt battery and light bulbs to add or take out as a controller. The weather here in the UK has been warm and sunny over the Easter period. We even managed to take the open top MGBV8 out on Friday evening to meet up with Robert (The Woodwork Wizard) and his wife Gill, for a drink at a local pub. Jane and I were going to try and go out in the car again on Sunday, but it was so nice in our garden that we decided to stay put, I cut the grass instead. The problem is that the area in which we live, North Norfolk, is a popular holiday area . On any Bank Holiday the 'world and his friend' arrive and fill the roads up with traffic!
  12. Thanks much for this Spinnyhill, its just what I was looking for. it seems 919 is the right one after all
  13. Good point. 😂 the original was flatter, probably. I still have it, I'll find and post a photo. it had a much tighter circle. I think its important though, since the master cyl is mounted to the bell housing and moves with the engine, whereas the brake line distribution block is mounted to the frame. it could flex quite a bit...
  14. Looks like a mop/brush on the end of that wand.
  15. I don't see a whole lot holding this vehicle back on the major checklist. Numbers matching Grand Sport in good condition with mid to high low level desirable color combination and rarity. Options are loaded and with solid paperwork and they boast about the paint job. It probably looks really nice in person. Essentially a one family owned vehicle till 2018. I would not say this vehicle would command the top tier pricing value for a 65 Gran Sport, yet perhaps 65%-90%. Anything Burgundy Mist and lower in paint production numbers might bump the value higher if desirable (Regal Black, special order, turquoise). No original black California plate, wood needs refinishing, manual roller for vent window (yet some might prefer that?). The exhaust looks a bit rough, minor cracks in steering wheel, Slow power antenna, AC not working, probably at least 120K true miles., so on. Tag on transmission shows early March and body tag has second week in April. Is that right? New head trunk. The seller is a professional that is custom to selling classic cars and has sold many Rivieras in the past. So, I would think he would be practical, yet not a pushover. Perhaps the seller might even consider partial trade, being in the business. The thing about a solid 65 Riviera Gran Sports is that they are considered blue chip IMO, yet the given worth can swing from $35K to above $100K, so in that regard it can be a volatile blue chip. For both the potential buyer and sellers sake, it could be un-sagacious to pin down a price on this vehicle, since all the main factors beyond what we know will determine the precise sale price (how much he paid, what is invested, their target acceptable profit, how much the buyers have and are willing to pay, what an in person inspection would elucidate).
  16. Did you sell the 3-door Hupmobile? I am looking for one.
  17. Doesn't hurt to wear good riding gear. But most of the riders I have seen die were wearing full riding gear. Our climate here is often cool and damp, most riders have decent gear. The human body is very fragile once the speed of impact hits 40 MPH or so. At the least broken bones. A good friend died from internal bleeding, he didn't think he had anything worse than a few scrapes and bruises, 3 young kids, a very sad funeral . He was wearing the best helmet on the market and full tour gear. The bike wasn't even badly damaged. Greg
  18. Of course 1925 would be identical. Certainly nothing newer. However, you can compare my 1924 with this Type 57 (1918-1919), which seems to give a chance for interchangability going back that far. Nothing older, though. I don't know of any parts piles, but the first thing I would do in your situation, would be to send emails to all owners of 1918-1925 Cadillacs in the CLC directory in the USA. Snail mail to those without email. The other source would be the Please tell us a little about your V63. - Carl
  19. That is a beautiful car, good to hear it got home OK.
  20. Tom- It's fairly easy to say what a car is NOT worth. It is much more difficult to figure out what it MIGHT be worth. Much of that is what the car is worth to you. You start from recent sales as a benchmark and then adjust up and down from there to account for authenticity, quality of workmanship, condition, options, etc.. It can take some time. There are real restorations and then there are cosmetic restorations. An expert can help sort that out. For example, just painting the power steering pump does not renew it, like disassembling it, resealing it, and then assembling and painting. It takes research and hours of detailed inspection.
  21. This one was posted on a facebook page of early cars. I wonder if they had worked out where all the kids were coming from.
  22. That’s an interesting bit of parliamentary derring-do: if you don’t like that way somebody votes, dismiss his opinion as invalid and nullify his vote. 👍
  23. Ok thank you. Are they purists or will they be ok with my car? I don’t want to upset anyone. And, other than changing the small block to a big block , this is how I got it.
  24. Ford, Bentley, Ford, Cadillac, Ford, Chevrolet, Mercury, Kaiser, Subaru, Lincoln, Mercedes, Ford. What did I win?
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