All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Thanks guys for this very helpful information. Ray
  3. Not sure who built this car, my random guess is EMF but the chains go along nicely with the side curtains. Personally, I have been glad to have the side curtains with our 1915 Ford, you appreciate the relative comfort during a cold, sideways rainstorm.
  4. Dan had a 41 Buick Special sedanette in the shop for restoration and I made a point of watching the project progress. I would have to say it was laughable with Dan proclaiming how impossible it was to get parts requiring the purchase of another car and that the finished car was not close to original as was stated by Dan to the owner. Some trim missing and incorrect interior finish work most glaringly the dash. He welded up the cracked manifold which is never successful. I was quite disappointed at the result. And there it sits in the backround on every subsequent episode likely waiting for another manifold after the welding failed. Hate to think that the 41 Buick project is representative of the work being done on other cars. I believe Dan was in the Air Force and a helicopter pilot which might account for his harsh demeanor.
  5. This cries to have an SBC dropped in and be driven, Restoration costs would be half the national debt.
  6. What’s another 4 years? But if you continue to feel 90, maybe you better farm it out. What is an 84 year old doing with a 16 valve? I know, WE still want to feel young. Enjoy it while you can. 😂
  7. Today
  8. you say that you have a 1971 buick riv boat tail I would be interested in the wiper arms but the left side must have the clip that holds the second arm on the peg dont remember what that small armis called but it is only on the drivers side thanks ted 414.704.1768
  9. Hi yes i was wondering when this french lick plant closed and what position the employee held if anyone could help me price this that would be awesome
  10. Here’s the bag they were in
  11. Figure old convertibles were run year round with no padding and insulation, the Reatta top does a good job, never noticed it being hard to heat or cool the car with the top up. Just something to store when not in use. Have had a few removable hard tops and never used them.
  12. I think they should have given the coupe the same roofline as the conv removable hardtop.
  13. Since you are losing power to the lights when the engine dies you might want to check this out. Battery Cable Checks & Repair I don't believe the security system can lock the ignition switch where you can't turn the key. It only disables the starter so the engine won't turn when the key is turned. Something besides the VATS is causing that. BTW, Welcome to the forum!
  14. ok so i replaced the fuel filter as well, i will work on the ignition control module but i am unsure if i meet all criteria. Today i test drove after each replacement i pulled up the thermostat to make sure i had inserted the thermostat the correct direction after reading a guest post on this site from 2002 with intermittent power loss. I also pulled out the air filter replaced test drove, then after being dumb and breaking the o ring seal for the water pipe portion of the thermostat i replaced that again and the fuel filter. To work on the ignition control after every test drive in 2 miles ish sometimes less i'd lose power according to the person following me i lose all lights as well from the rear. i turn the car off minute later i stick the key back in and it powers to life no problems. the first time is the only time it security locked on me where i couldn't even turn the key in the ignition. again i have no stuttering and no putting just loses power and then quits idling. and every time i turn the key in it it starts up. I was planning on starting it and watching it idle for a few minutes tomorrow and if you think it worth switching out the ignition control module still then i'll do that just looking for a plan of attack.
  15. The previous owner thought it was Studebaker but with that duck tail I'm not sure,no books I have show a good rear view of either. Definitely a target at one time anyway. Any help appreciated.
  16. Hedy Lamarr. One of Hollywood's most beautiful. Plus brains. Check out her bio on the internet and read about her developments during WWII in the field of munitions and electronics in code breaking. Back then she was already beginning to see the light as far as WIFI and bluetooth ideas.
  17. Did you pull the green and black wires out of the connector and swap them? No? Then it is right. You cannot plug that connector on backwards either. So, now the relay does click when the horn button is depressed? OK, after a slight bit of research, I see this is a reproduction relay, slightly different than OEM. If you have a voltmeter or test light, ground the black lead and connect the other to each of the terminals of this relay. The bolt should have +12 on it always, right? Then one of the two terminals should also have +12 volts showing with the harness disconnected. This would be the terminal that connects to the horn button /steering column. The terminal without any voltage should go to the horns. Does this test match the green and black wires? Put +12 volts right to the green or black wire that goes to the horns and see if they still blow.
  18. yes, 12 feet. And the straps keep the suspension from extending too far that it worried me(double elipiticals you know). Sorry, didn't get a notification of this earlier.
  19. Thanks to several of you, I’m preparing a fuel pressure regulator to install on my vintage bus. The question that remains is, does it hurt to install the regulator right after the fuel pump? Searching online didn’t get me a clear and relevant answer. The Holley instructions from the regulator say to put it as close to the carburetor as possible, but there is nowhere convenient to mount it in the engine bay of the bus. I’d rather bolt it to the fuel pump mounting rack on the side of the tank. But that leaves about 20 feet of fuel line between the regulator and the carb. Would that cause any problems?
  20. Padgett is right, Buick only bought the V-6 engine rights AND tooling back from AMC. They never went back to the aluminum V-8 design of the 60s. Late 70s Buicks had either the 231 V-6 or the cast iron 350 until they got the GM family engines (260, 301, 305, 307, etc.) I took a tour of the Buick Flint engine plant in 1988 and they told the story of blowing the dirt out of the plant floor holes to bolt the V-6 tooling right back in the exact same spot it was in when it left in 1967! For mid 80s troubleshooting, get a Snap ON Red Brick, aka MT2500. Still a lot of them on Ebay for sale. Usually comes with Domestic Primary Cartridge and Domestic Troubleshooter Cartridge. Even works for that weird 1995 OBD 1.5 that Park Avenues and some Camaros use.
  21. I spoke with the shop manager at Abrahams Machine Service in Davenport, Iowa this afternoon. He told me that they will be starting on my engine next week. I am going to go up after they have everything disassembled and cleaned to get photos. This will be the first time that this engine has been opened up in 104 years. I can personally account for the last 56 years that nothing has been done with this engine. I will post photos when I get them. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  22. I can’t provide direct help, but have you done a search for local appraisers? That may be the best route to go. Alternatively, there are online price guides, but overall, the older the vehicle and the lower the volume of sales, they tend to get less accurate. Good luck. It’s a pretty looking car. Six cylinder if I’ve got it right.
  23. Hello Al, Yes, we are very arid here in the high desert of western Utah. Much of the remains of my car was up out of the dirt, (except the bottom of the wheels) so the water simply ran off. The Locomobile sat out from probably about the mid 1920's until I acquired the remains from a family member in 1976. Now for the brakes. All the linkage and pivot points are intact and in good shape. However, sitting out for so many years, rain and then snow melted and ran between the cotton brake linings and the cast iron brake drums. The action of time, no movement of the wheels and moisture pitted the original brake drums on both the OD of the drums and also the ID. I thought about trying to repair the drums by filling the pits with brass....then I thought better of that idea and decided NO WAY. That is when I decided to just bite the bullet and have new improved drums cast. I had a good time going nice and easy with the lathe doing the machine work to size the OD, the width and finally the ID of the drum to match the originals, (and also fit exactly to the OD of the inner wheel hub flange). These new brake drums should last way longer than I will and provide for the best possible braking! That's the story on Utah weather, and pitted brake drums. Al
  24. Restoration costs will certainly be the prime factor with the future goddess. My 1934 Model 57 (several posts above) was an excellent driver, needing absolutely no wood or metal work, but striping to bare metal, as well as the interior, chrome, and engine enhancements was still a very serious expense - certainly wwell worth the adventure, but expensive none the less. I envy whomever's stable this one will grace - but at my age and stage in life, I no longer envy the journey. Best of luck, Mark and the eventual owner, and thanks Greg for the personal touch -enjoyed meeting you a few years back. Maybe get to visit you, Frank, and Kent on our way to the show in Fallbrook - I hope the Palm Springs Region will lend heavy support
  25. What better to run the shine in than an old Century.
  26. Thank you for the replays and messages
  27. I like the Pontiac 350 although it's really a 355. The H-O version of 1969 which gets the # 48 heads same as the RA3 400 and the 428 H-O with 2.11 intakes and 1.77 exhaust and makes a conservative 330HP was a real Road Runner killer/eater. And all the automatic's were T-400.
  1. Load more activity