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I asked a question in techical about this flange on the cowl. I didn't know what it was for. No one else knew either. But my part car buddy, who has a 47 DeSoto took a pic under his dash. It turns out that a strut bolts on there and helps support the steering column by securing it to the cowl. Good to know, so I'm putting this obscure info here to possibly help other restorers with the same question.

That car is a 1907 Itala, and judging by the length of the hood, the 6 cylinder 75hp model. In 1907 Itala had just earned eternal fame by winning the Peking (now Beijing) to Paris race, making the brand popular in many European countries like France, England and also Germany indeed.

It looks like an Autoport Jitney. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=27793

A photo of my grandfather camping in the desert.

Quote: If you are going to "drive the problem" out of the car, you need an additive that works on sticking rings. Lots of snake oil out there. Not sure what is better than another. Just put a cupful of ATF in the gas tank with at least a half full tank and see what happens .

If you are going to "drive the problem" out of the car, you need an additive that works on sticking rings. Lots of snake oil out there. Not sure what is better than another. A leak down test will tell you if #6 is a valve or piston problem. That would determine if you pull the oil pan (pistons come out the bottom) or pull the head for a valve job. I am in the court with Don. I would not drive the problem out, but rather do the leak down and follow up on that data. If it's a piston, then it is an opportunity to inspect the oil lines and the oil screen. There is also no loss in pulling the cylinder head and cleaning all the carbon out and dressing the valves. Hugh

Actor Robert stack was a dry lakes racer

1926 Buick photos if this helps?

Actor Robert Stack was a dry lakes racer

Well, Andy, you certainly began a popular topic here! Thanks for the inspiration.

All I can think of is, How would you parallel park this?

Wilson, I am going to repeat much of what is explained above, but add some details. These first couple of photos show the brackets that hold the "top rest iron stud". These plates would not be difficult to make with 1/4" plate steel and a nut welded to it. Basically get the top rest stud to rest on the top of the body sheetmetal. These were originally 7/16-20 threaded, but a 1/2-13 nut would be more common to put together. Note that there is also a 1" x 1/4" flat bar underneath the top rest mounting for support that extends to the wood frame. This is the top rest iron stud. I found that this dimension was a little short. Larry made my first set and I had to remake these about 1" longer and expect to cut them to length. These were originally black painted steel. I had mine made from stainless. More expensive Buicks had these nickel plated instead of black paint - so an upgrade. Notice in the Buick code, BE is black enamel and NP is Nickel Plate. This shows the top rests available from Myers Early Dodge, and subsequently vintageandclassicreproductions.com. Made in Australia. If you go on the website is says $175 each, but that is AUD, so $113 USD ea. Shipping is reasonable. I expect to buy another set of these for a Buick that I am working on. You will spend a lot of time looking for the correct clamps and likely never find the right ones. The top rests are the way to go IMO. The leather straps are made by antiqueautotophardware.com . This is like jewelry hanging on the car. Now we get into the top details that Buick did not want to address. I am going to start with a photo from Leif (light colored top). It appears the top rests were not meant to be left on the car when the top is not folded. Notice how the top is stretched if the top is up. Water would leak in where the bolt comes out. There is exposed wood showing behind the canvas. I believe that the rests were supposed to be kept in the car until needed. That's why they are lost. So the remaining photos show a sewing detail that I did so that I could leave these top rests on the car. Dave Blaufarb had his top made in a similar manner and that is where I got the idea from. This allows me to leave the top rest in place and not worry about water intrusion. This is not a necessary adjustment, just a suggestion so that you are aware of the issue. One last item that you will need. If you plan to drive your Buick with the top down, you will also need to have a boot cover made and more importantly you will see the 2 straps inside that hold the rear window. These straps prevent the rear glass from bouncing on the spare tire and breaking it or shaking the tacks loose. There are 2 fasteners in the hidem on the back of the car, and 2 DOT snaps into bow #1. The top boot does not need to be as elaborate as the factory made and covering the top sockets, but it should have the straps and be a bag to hold the components. I did an AACA Buick Prewar posting on how this top boot was made. Hugh

Recent experience has taught me that even when you buy a prewar classic that has no fatal flaws you can spend a lot of time and money not only on all the deferred maintenance but trying to find unobtainable steering, brake, suspension and tuneup parts. As some of you have heard me talk about my latest buy, a 1939 Packard twelve, a low mile original rust free car with a older paint job that has held up nice, near perfect chrome, a engine that started instantly, did not leak (by prewar standards), did not overheat, great brakes and a velvet smooth clutch. I am now approaching 500 hours along with $7,500 in parts and this is without finding any ugly surprises. Could I have spent less time and money, probably, but do I want to take the grandkids out in a 6,000 pound car at 60 mph with brakes that probably have not been apart since the Kennedy administration. The good news is that I still love the car, probably because when it came apart all major systems were not screwed up with a sabotage hack job. Knock on wood the classic car gods have been kind to me, this time! most of us followed Matt’s Lincoln twelve story which is a reminder that the “Improved Murphys Law” works like this, if there is a 50/50 chance of something going wrong, nine times out ten it will!

There's one that came to the cruise at the former Mantua Kmart today. Maybe he'll be there next Monday.

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More pictures in the morning.

Would a 1938 Graham Model 97 Supercharger interest anyone?

Hi Narve N great info I always love photos they can explain so much more. Just wondering when you say second version series 75 what do you mean? I’m guessing there must have been some significant changes mid production? Cheers Ben

Dealing with this myself