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  2. The outer ring can be recast over the original spine. The horn button is another matter.
  3. This is what Auburn and Cord used between 1934 & 1937 . I believe your picture is a 'fitzall' sold by Western Auto and others.
  4. Please take the following comments with the grain of salt of lack of real world experience: Your original engine had 10.25-1 compression ratio. The '74 has 8.5-1. I tend to doubt more flow will improve the performance enough to justify the expense. And I tend to doubt more available flow will be advantageous unless you change to a more aggressive camshaft. Do you know which rear axle ratio your car has?
  5. Nick8086 send me pictures and a price. s_vaughn@bellsouth.net Steve
  6. I have to ask - you mentioned a 2017 LaCrosse. Have you run into any transmission/shifter issues with it? I have a 2018 - ran into something interesting, and I don’t think the dealer or GM are allowed to tell me the full truth of what caused it.
  7. And as a side thought, you could try digging all that dirt out of the bottom of the bell housing first, and then checking to see if the engine will turn while still attached to the transmission. This is a direct connection to the engine, and if the torque converter cannot move, then neither will the engine.
  8. In addition, while I admire your "go get em" approach, I will caution that you simply cannot learn everything you need to know about that engine from these, or any other, forum. Did you get a 1950 Buick service manual? If not, the 2nd best thing is to access one here : https://www.hometownbuick.com/ and read up on engine disassembly and repair, as well as the torque converter disassembly and what to expect. But to answer your question about how to get that transmission off I will refer to your picture reprinted below: You will need to remove the timing chain in front of the motor 1st. Usually that means unbolting the cam shaft gear and then working it off the cam shaft in order to remove the chain. Then you will need to unbolt each main bearing cap ( shown by the red arrows) and each rod bearing cap shown by the yellow arrows) with the following caution: For rebuild purposes, it is important to keep track of each cap in terms of both orientation and location. I did see in the other picture that it appears your main bearing caps are numbered. So that helps a lot. But I am not certain about the rod caps and there are eight of them to keep track of. Once you have removed all the caps then the crankshaft can be removed while it is attached to the transmission. And at that point you can remove the three bolts that hold the torque converter to the flywheel/ring gear and the transmission can be separated from the crankshaft. And as always, I welcome corrections by others with more experience. @Ben Bruce aka First Born Thanks for that observation. I was unaware of that turbulator design.
  9. Today
  10. I will jump in here, John. What I see is the "Turbulator" dome on the piston. The dome sits to one side. Ben
  11. Willie. Need to fabricate the return bellow type ducts from the evaporator outlet to the bottom of the package tray return grilles and need to connect electrical wires to the under-dash fan control switch. An in line drier (the one that goes underneath the passenger side frame) has to be replaced as well. I have the new part from an AC shop that they match from a GM motorcoach. Go figure! Remember 53 and 54 were commercial Frigidaire type “after-market” factory systems. Then I must charge the system, check for leaks and proper operation of other components. The compressor and the condenser were previously checked before installation. As you know this system operates with now illegal and expensive Freon 12. I would think if I convert to 134 I would loose originality as the cooper braided pressure hose. My dilemma at this point is why to expend money and effort on a car that I only use once in a blue 🌚 ! Willie I guess I could of answer you as simple as No, it’s not working. but thank you for reminding me of the task ahead. Simply, I forgot where I left of more than two years ago. I still think I can live w/o AC for few hours!
  12. Matt, if you had grown up in the 1940s and 1950s in a big city, you would have seen many of the on actual cars - and especially on cabs. This style were also called "Bumper Over-riders". They were manufactured for some aftermarket companies, such as YANKEE, and were popular in larger cities where street parking spaces were very difficult, and where someresidents parked "BY EAR". I recall as a young child in Brooklyn's East New York section, watching as a neighbor "EXPANDED HIS PARKING SPOT" by using his car to push the cars ahead of, and behind where he chose to park. Initially the space was minimal, but he pushed the others just enough to force his car in for a space at the curb. He didn't even lve on our side of the street! These were also used extenssively on Taxicabs in NYC, and I also recall seeing them on my mother's Uncle Sammy's 1950 Dodge. It was a "plain-Jane" beige 4-door sedan with blackwall tires. Sometime around the late 1950s his family moved from The Bronx to Fairlawn, NJ, and he had it painted bright red with a white roof and got a set of whitewall tires and full wheelcovers, but still kept the "Taxicab Overriders".
  13. Thank you, Brian. I saw my first Nascar race there. 2005. Friday night on the 1/2 mile track, then Sat and Sunday. I had forgotten the Military theme. Ben
  14. I guess I failed to note another part of the story that makes it just a little cooler. Charlotte Motor Speedway always does a stellar job of honoring the military at the Coke 600. Being Memorial Day weekend they do a whole pre-race show featuring military activities where... well in stead of describing just watch and the cars typically feature stars and stripes paint scheme and a fallen service member is recognized via their name on the top of windshield. The car is being borrowed from a BCA member with an extensive career with the Marine's so I think it is just a perfect storm of an experience. Look closely at the windshield and you will see the ID stickers to get on base.
  15. I'm looking for a Deluxe Steering Wheel for a 1936 Oldsmobile as shown in the photo below. If you have or know of one in decent condition please let me know. I believe these were the same as used on '35/36 Buick too. Also interested in an original radio too. Appreciate any leads, thank you.
  16. I also use Gardner Wescott. Very nice to deal with
  17. I'll connect you with the guy at the Speedway. Sending you an email.
  18. Those 1941 Buick guards are not genuine Buick accessories. The genuine 1941 Buick accessory was a set of four bumper ends, two for each the front and rear bumper. Collectors nicknamed them "elephant ears". This picture was taken before my '41 was repainted, re-wired, engine and chassis detailed, all new chrome, new clutch. In other words as I bought it with 59,000 original miles and an old chipped up lacquer paint job.
  19. I've purchased parts for pre war cars from Jim many times and even the occasional car. He is a character, he is smart but doesn't act as if he is. I tried to buy his curved dash Olds many times but was never successful, last I heard he was restoring it, which to me, meant it will be ruined. Tons of parts and cars, poorly stored, expensive, but if you know what you are looking at then you will think you died and went to heaven. Regards, Gary
  20. One is spark advance, the other is throttle.
  21. Is the Pierce Arrow a before and after pair of photos of the same car?
  22. Well Edwin, I am not an expert either but that engine may have had serious problems before it was parked. I am refering to the rounded edge on the front piston. Is that some material like dirt or is that piston deformed? Can you poat a better picture of the first and last piston? And are all the pistons like this #1 piston?
  23. I spent a lot of time searching to find this paint and body guy. I still don't have him working on mine yet, but I am encouraged that he has another antique car in his shop that he is actually working on currently. As soon as he finishes that one, he is supposed to get started on mine. Hopefully it will work out for me.
  24. Let me say something. I've been oggling late 1930's to 1949 cars since I was about 10 years old. My grandparents owned a 1939 Chrysler during all those years. Because of that I've always had a soft spot for them. In all these years I've only seen ONE with dual sidemounts (or even one sidemount which I've never seen). I looked at that one car in Knoxville, TN a little over 20 years ago. It was missing the emblems in the center of at least one sidemount cover. I figured that would be impossible to find. 1939 Chryslers had pearlized plastic facing over much of the dash, and especially the glovebox door. I remember as a small child how that was all cracked and warped in my grandfather's car. To add to the rarity of this particular Chrysler pictured, it looks like the glovebox door is good. That alone would be worth $500-1200 if the picture is correct. Without cracking they are 100 x impossible to find. To think that somebody would ruin this particular car, while not even painting it, to me, is unthinkable. Why people with a penchant to change the wheels, engine, put in front clips and all of that can't pick on ordinary and more plentiful cars is beyond me. Either you want an antique car or you don't. Any car as rare as this one should be restored and saved. It only goes back to the lack of interest and respect today for the cars that brought America through World War II and into the "Fabulous Fifties" To me that is sad.
  25. What are the 2 things on this wheel for? Absolute amateur question. I guessing choke, ignition advance/retard or throttle.
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