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  2. Unfortunately, my dad never put me on a car to take my picture.
  3. This reminds me of my "Grandfather's Axe"; my father changed the head and I changed the handle !
  4. Here's a couple photos of similar Darracqs.
  5. 66 & 67 you had the option of a 340/4 although the 300 is more than adequate performance. The 64/65 300 had a 4 barrel option and the 66 & 67 did not. Not sure about exceptional gas mileage, I have had 300's and 340's for years and you are not going to see exceptional gas mileage, maybe better than a 455 or 430 but only by a couple mpg. Traveling with 300's I have gotten as high as 18, traveling with my 430's I see 16/17 traveling with my 455's I see 15/16. The 215 does much better on gas but it wouldn't hold up to the abuse, especially tha tranny. There are a lot more build possibilities with the 340, so a 340 1966 or 67 Special or Skylark might be a good fit. You can even get California GS's with the 340/4 fairly reasonable and easily in the budget he has to spend.
  6. Today
  7. How about a photo of the Darracq,? I could only find one picture of a Darracq race car,I also found a Motobloc car with a radiator badge similar to the car in question from mässing-nickel.
  8. Would any of you learned Gentlemen know if a 1929 Chrysler model 65 Silver dome head is interchangeable with a 1930 Chrysler model 66 Silver dome or vice versa.
  9. Thanks Ariejan for correcting this identification. I based it on the older post, which turned out to be wrong. You are definitively correct about it being a Darracq, and probably correct in them being different cars too, it was just all the similarities that got me.
  10. Are you feeling down in the dumps because of the virus ?
  11. Looks like an original TR-6 tire to me.
  12. I was going to question the fineness of the emulsions of today versus shooting digital B&W or shooting digital color and simply desaturating the image so I thought I'd find a decent quality digital color photo of the 1919 Model T I had saved and give it a test. This is the result of desaturating the color with no other adjustments. In this case I think it turned out very well.
  13. You post a car you see by driving around town.. Here is one from today...
  14. Both cars are ca 1908 Darracq. This radiator shape was one of the types used for the larger models. Besides I don't believe these to be the same car, too many differences.
  16. even though it doesn't say KPH, it makes sense that that is what it is, a check driving down a interstate highway with mile markers will determine if it's mph of kph.
  17. If you are keeping the rest of the original drivetrain, just rebuild the stock brake system completely. It's more than sufficient for the car and you will not have the headache of trying to get a non stock system properly engineered so it works correctly. For value Tbirds have been pretty flat and lately they seem to be dropping some with a very nice example to be had in the 25-30 G range. That's something nice enough that almost any one here would be happy to own it. If you don't paint it, it's original color, I would atleast choose something in the 1955 Ford Line up. Cars often look funny when painted a non authentic color. Pearls and some metallics just don't go on old cars, though they may look great on a paint chip. I would say if you are rebuilding it to nay great degree the 12 Volt upgrade is not a big deal. It could always be reversed if someone down the line wants it back to original as long as you use the correct wiring for a 1955 car if you are replacing any of the wiring harness. There are alot of these on the market so you could easily spend more than what it's worth rehabbing even a good car. In the end it s your car, but if you ever plan to sell it, be advised modifications may adversely affect the value and things like a color change to non period colors may make it down right hard to sell. Post pictures when you get a chance. I had a 57 Tbird 10 years ago and had it for 10 before that driving it all over the place. Bone stock drivetrain 312 with auto and it ran great. It never let me down. I sort of miss it, but you have to part with them to keep moving up the old car food chain.
  18. I have never seen any pictures of a NAG with that shape of radiator. Can you tell me more which model is it?
  19. Even my near pristine pieces of literature I list as decent shape with wear. My grading goes from Decent, to Fair to Decent, to Fair, Then Poor to fair and finally poor shape which is usually a brochure that has water damage loose pages tears etc. I usually only sell stuff like that when it's something I have never seen before or maybe had a very nice example that sold well, so I put it out there and usually even mention it's a filler piece until you find a better example if you ever do. At 99 cents you can't argue with the price for a filler piece. Saves it from the trash can atleast and that's my goal with alot of it. Usually guys put it in their order so shipping is essentially free on that piece. Helps build buyers as well knowing there is always some sort of bargain if they are looking. I wish I could only sell pristine pieces but then again you have to pay so much for them that you can't give anyone any kind of a deal to make them want to buy it. Good luck. With a few sales a week it's not too bad and can even be fun if you don't have much invested in the items you are selling, My wife does it occassionally with my extra crap that comes in. She lots it up and i tell her how to list it, then she keeps the money. Keeps my bins cleaned out so I don't turn into one of those sellers with tons of crappy material they will never sell or get around to selling. When you pound it every day and devote alot of time to using it as your sole source of income, you experience more of the frustrations.
  20. I do agree it’s not an 18k car, But I also don’t think it’s a $9000 carBut I also don’t think it’s a $9000 car.
  21. In one of the old Horseless Carriage Club Gazete's there is a article detailing the Delahaye connection. Early 1970's I believe. Greg
  22. Neat car, but I think they accidentally added a 1 in front of the price.
  23. The developing / printing is no big problem, but the film itself sure can be. Once you get away from normal 35 MM the choices narrow quickly. I would look for as old a 35 MM camera as possible and give that a try. A hand held exposure meter is a skill in itself . Lots of decent 1950's 35 MM cameras out there. The Japanese and European rangefinders are interesting and some are reasonably cheap. Greg
  24. One of the problems with this style of camera is the bellows. They often crack and develop pinholes as the material ages and stiffens. Also, film in the twenties and thirties was very different from that made after World War Two. The color response (even though it’s black and white) is different. Also light leaks and questionable developing and printing often lead to the “antique” effects of fogging and vignetting. Save yourself time and money and stick with the digital system and effects unless you really want to get into the very expensive hobby of Silver nitrate photography.
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