You seem very knowledgable! I am trying to get my 1926 buick running and have a few issues before I start the engine as it has been 15 plus years since it started. Fortunately grandpa had kept the car inside. The car had an aftermarket 6v fuel pump that was put on years back. It supposedly did not work so I added a new 6v aftermarket fuel pump...will this be too much for the marvel carb which I had rebuilt? I am thinking of adding a regulator? ( i know I should look for a vacuum tank)

The other question...I am trying to change the transmission fluid and cannot add fluid through the side filler b/c it appears blocked by a metal tube after I took the cap off...it drained some sludge but I want to add new 80w-90 gear oil?? any help on these issues would be greatly greatly appreciated!! Thanks Ryan

You will most likely need to add a regulator to that elec. fuel pump or the carb will leak fuel.

As far as the trans goes I would use 85-140 in it. Not sure about the metal tube. Never ran into that before. If it is too much of a problem to get the oil in from the side, then lift the floor boards and remove the top from the trans and fill it to the level plug that way. Be sure that the gasket is good and the forks line up before you put it back. It may not hurt to look anyway if you have something blocking the level plug. Welcome aboard. Dandy Dave!

Ryan,

You should join the 1927 Buick Group on Yahoo. Here is the link. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/1927buicks/ Lots of help and the questions that you want answers to, can be found by searching the old posts.

On the tranny.. I filled mine from the top and you have to use real heavy oil. If you use 90w you will not be able to shift gears. I know this will sound strange but you need 600w which you can get from the Model A supplier on the net. It looks like mud. I used this at the suggestion of an "old timer" and I don't have to double clutch on my 1925.

You'll get many opinions on the fuel pump. I use a vacuum tank but if you use an electric then you need a regulator that goes down to 1.

If you have never driven the 26 then you must remember that the shift pattern is backwards. First is down to the right!

join the group. Get the owners manual.

bubba

Who did your carb, I am on a waiting list for my Marvel?

I had a carb guy in Lincoln, NE where I live do it in a week. It looked like new when he was done. I just hooked up my fuel pump tonight and tried to start my car and the pressure was too high just as many on this forum said it would be. The pump puts out 5.75 psi and I am going to install a 1 psi regulator tommorrow and see if it leaks through the top screw on the bowl. I am really ready to get this car started. I need some kind of shut off when the fuel is pumped to the carb...the vac tank works better I think!!

If you would like the info on him I could get him to do it for you.. He is legendary in the area. I can send pics of the work he did and he is reasonable. Do you have a coach coupe also?

Ryan,
I agree with Bubba on using 600W in your trans and also possibly in the rear axle. You can get all the special lubricants from Restoration Supply.
www.RestorationStuff.com

Yes would like his info, I was quoted 450.00 by a reputable guy---he says he does a lot others dont, that's why he is high. I have the model 27 4 door sedan, you can view it on the "Me and my Buick" forum. Thanks.

Yes, 600wt would be better than 90-140. You can also get it from Langs Model T parts.

Push here. Langs

Here also is a link to Restoration Supply.... RSC

Dandy Dave!

I can get his name for you after I see how this carb works. I will ask him if he wants to do another. I tried starting the car last night for the first time. Everything turned over great but no spark at the coil or spark plug...not good.

I am taking the coil into a shop for testing today. I installed the a 1 psi regulator and my carb did not leak through the top neetle screw! (thanks for everyone's advice..very helpful as always) Now I just want to get it to start. I may need to replace the wires points and distributor cap too as i think they are originals!

After not being able to get my car started it looks like I am going to need a delco coil for my 1926. Any suggestions on where I could locate one or substitute? I am also going to replace the original wires with a new wire kit also. I am also looking for an outside passenger door handle...

You can use any 6V coil just to get it running. You can get an original Delco at a swap meet later.

Thanks Mark for the reply. So I can just go and get a 6v coil and mount it on the generator? Where would I find one...local parts store? I will try and find a delco one later then. Just want to get the car started and running down the road! thanks again!

Just ask for a 6V coil for a VW.

Went and got a 6v coil. Still do not have any spark. I hate to replace all of the original plug wires but may do that to eliminate them as a problem. I have a new universal set. I have a new condenser also. Dont really know why I cannot get spark between the coil and the distibuter? Maybe I should change the points? I am sure I am doing something wrong...any advice would be appreciated.

Ryan,
Don't replace wires yet, first check if you have spark at the coil by opening the points with a screwdriver.
If you you don't get a spark at the coil, but get arcing at the points when you open them,then the cond. is prob.ng
Have you checked for 6volts at the coil + term ???
Also sounds like you don't have to replace coil or wires yet.
Condensers can fail just sitting.

John B

22-6-55 Sport Touring

Being that the car has sat for a long time the points will have oxidized. Run a piece of fine emery though them to get the contacts clean. Then some paper to wipe them off. This usually works but, if the silver platinum plating is almost non-existent, then you may have to replace the points because they will corrode quickly after the car sits for a few days. Dandy Dave!

Got the car started tonight and ran it several times!!! Very happy to at least get it running! Put a new condenser on and cleaned the points which gave us a great spark in combo with the new coil. (thanks everyone!)

Now there are some new issues: Of course!
The carb heat and choke knobs on the dash are missing, the metal lines are there...we had to manually choke it which in turn allowed the engine to fire. We keep having to choke and got a little backfire once in the tube... does anyone have extra metal fascia and knobs?

There is also a good amount of smoke after the engine heats up...excess blow buy which I think could be from me putting too much oil in??? I also added some of that lucas engine additive as a bunch of guys told me I should. What would cause that blow buy? Thanks for any input you guys have...cant tell you enough how helpful this site has been!! Ryan

The smoke could be from several things. First, it could be that the rings are sticky from the car sitting for so long. It will need to be run and get warm and cold several times and that usually will lossen them up and it will stop smoking so bad.

Second, Worst scenario... It is not uncommon for these early Buicks to have a wrist pin lossen up and slide over and wear a grove in the cylinder wall. The only fix for this is a complete teardown and have the bad hole bored and sleeved.

Third, Not as bad as #2, the engine could be just tired and need a ring and valve job.

Sorry that I cannot help with parts. Dandy Dave!

I think a '27 metal fascia and knobs for the choke and carb heat fit on a '26. These are available from Bob's Automobilia.
Dave