Any suggestions on removing the welded....not any more..... nut that is in the frame that holds the six rubber insulators which hold the drive train to the car? I am preparing to replace mine and was giving them each a shot of PBBlaster when I noticed one was completely loose. It is the middle one on the driver's side. I assumed, and we all know what they say about people who assume, oh you don't know? They're an ass before U and me. Anyways, I used a sawzall to cut off the bolt between the frame and the subframe. Now I can't get the bolt out. It appears, by Helen-Keller-touch, to be a threaded tube with a tab on it that is supposed to be welded to the frame??? It seems I remember a while back, f14 saying he cut out a little opening in the wheel well to gain exposure to the nut. Is that what I will have to do? I haven't attempted to move the others yet. I am going to complain about the pay on this Reatta. I deserve a raise but I can't afford to give myself one.

Yes, Greg and Phil had differing approaches to this problem. When I tackle mine, I will use liberal amounts of Kroil, but do not really anticipate this will prevent one or more of the lost nut experiences. When the nut comes loose, where does it go? To avoid having to cut into the frame to chase the nut, I was wondering about just letting it drift and substituting some kind of toggle bolt system?

I drilled a 1.5 inch hole to access the cage nut. I closed it back up with a rubber grommet type plug.

Vincent Vega, it looks like cutting a small hole will work to gain access, but will I be able to remove it, or will it require torches? The gas lines run right behind it.

Richard S, it is not a nut, it is a threaded pipe with a tab welded onto it. I tried forcing it up through with a hammer and punch with no luck. I will try that again before cutting a hole, but I need it to be higher than I had it before. I couldn't get a good swing with a big enough hammer.

Richards' term is correct, it is a caged nut(speed nut) thats' designed to be able to float around somewhat to account for variations in tolerances of the body and sub-frame assemblies.
Your description is accurate, it's a threaded sleeve with a square base. The base is meant to remain confined with some sheet metal tabs within the body structure.
One of my front ones spun loose and I was able to get to it through panel openings behind one of the horns to get aa set of vice grips on it. If you have access to welding equipmet, once the whole subframe is detached you could weld an extension back on the remains of the bolt, persevere with the penetrant and do as VV suggests. With that small opening you need to reach the sleeve and clamp it to unscrew the remains.
Sorry, but I believe you made a tactical error cutting that bolt.

They are difficult to deal with to say the least

I had a friend of mine from Winteripeg help me install the struts and frame insulators today. He is GOOD! He got the bolt I cut off (and left only a quarter inch sticking down) out with a little heat from a welding torch right next to the fuel lines. He made everything look so easy it pissed me off! I took it for a test ride and got pulled over by a cop...of course, I had my foot it in a little to check out my new suspension. He just looked at my license made a few smart remarks and then told me he hadn't heard that one yet today, and let me off. YES!!! Catalog that one boys, but don't use it too often. I drove it home smiling only to have the alternator light come on... oh well. It is a disease and it doesn't seem to be getting better. Thanks to everyone in the forum for the posts.