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#508096 - 05/07/08 07:05 PM Leaf Spring Restoration Help
VeloMan Offline
Member


Registered: 11/19/07
Posts: 53
Loc: West Chester, PA
I'm restoring my 1921 leaf springs. They look OK, but have some pitting where they were exposed to the weather. Is it OK to fill the pits with a little body putty? I've read not to paint the springs where they contact each other, and only to use graphite grease. Is that the general consensus?

Thanks,

Phil Jamison
PA

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#508168 - 05/07/08 10:56 PM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: VeloMan]
West Peterson Online
Long Time Member


Registered: 04/28/04
Posts: 2666
Loc: Dayton
I'd take them to a shop that can make you new ones. They're not that expensive. If you decide that you still want to fill them, I think lead would be better than body putty (nevermind, per Bob's post further on down).

Edited by West Peterson (05/08/08 10:09 AM)
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#508174 - 05/07/08 11:22 PM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: VeloMan]
Mark Shaw Online
Member


Registered: 06/08/05
Posts: 942
Loc: Vancouver, WA
I hereby offer another opinion:

Completely disassemble & clean all leaves. Use "Slip-Plate" Graphite dry film lubricant (special spray paint you can get from your John Deere dealer). Reassemble and use super thin body filler or just repaint the exposed surfaces of the leaves to fill imperfections and sand down to achieve a smooth surface.

The dry lubricant will make your springs work better where it counts...between the leaves.
_________________________
Mark Shaw
BCA PWD Director
HCCA Member (Skagit & Portland)
1913 Model 31 Touring
1915 Model C-25 "Speedster"
1924 Model 45 "Roadster Truck"
1929 Model 29-27 Sedan (Now my son's car)
1931 Model 57 Sedan

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#508200 - 05/08/08 06:32 AM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: Mark Shaw]
Restorer32 Online
Member


Registered: 07/25/02
Posts: 1915
Loc: South Central Pa.
We disassemble leaf springs, grind away pits if superficial, seal and paint each leaf separately then reassemble the spring pack using appropriate lube and then if necessary for appearance we respray the assembled springs. Luckily we have a local spring shop that can make most any spring we need though if rounded ends are necessary we need to grind those ourselves.
_________________________
1932 Packard 900 Conv Cpe 1933 Packard Coupe Sedan 1955 Jaguar XK-140 Drophead

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#508218 - 05/08/08 08:48 AM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: Restorer32]
West Peterson Online
Long Time Member


Registered: 04/28/04
Posts: 2666
Loc: Dayton
I would think, though, that after 90 years they'll need to be re-arched at the very least. No?
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#508226 - 05/08/08 09:08 AM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: West Peterson]
Bhigdog Offline
Member


Registered: 10/23/01
Posts: 1473
Loc: Eastern PA
Not so sure using lead is a good reccomendation. Depending on the alloy, the melting point of lead (or solder) is approaching the spring temper temperature of the steel. A slight over heat and you will turn your springy spring into a limp noodle.
Body fill will work fine or the suggestion of new ones is even better...........Bob
_________________________
Bob Beck
39 Chev PU
69 big block Corvette
55 Buick 66C
57 Buick 46C
55 Olds S-88
56 Chrysler St. Regis
AACA, BCA, WPC, USHGA

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#508488 - 05/09/08 12:09 PM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: Bhigdog]
VeloMan Offline
Member


Registered: 11/19/07
Posts: 53
Loc: West Chester, PA
Any recommendations for new spring makers? I know of Eaton, but perhaps there is another in Philadelphia/Lancaster area.

Phil Jamison

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#508494 - 05/09/08 12:34 PM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: VeloMan]
West Peterson Online
Long Time Member


Registered: 04/28/04
Posts: 2666
Loc: Dayton
Jeff (Restorer32)... meet Phil.
"Luckily we have a local spring shop that can make most any spring we need though if rounded ends are necessary we need to grind those ourselves."


Edited by West Peterson (05/09/08 12:35 PM)
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#508563 - 05/09/08 06:12 PM Re: Leaf Spring Restoration Help [Re: VeloMan]
Bhigdog Offline
Member


Registered: 10/23/01
Posts: 1473
Loc: Eastern PA
I just bought a pair for my 56 Chrysler from ESPO. I picked them up at their place of business near Danville, PA because I wanted to eye ball them. They aren't installed yet so I can't say how the riding height will be but they sure do look good. Leaf ends are both tapered and rounded, the stack is tight, and they have nylon anti sqeak pads just like the originals. The price was about half what they would have been from Kanter, $270 vs $550 and they had them in 3 days. I also saw a pair from Eton. The leaf ends were just chopped off square with no taper..........Bob
_________________________
Bob Beck
39 Chev PU
69 big block Corvette
55 Buick 66C
57 Buick 46C
55 Olds S-88
56 Chrysler St. Regis
AACA, BCA, WPC, USHGA

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