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#500826 - 04/08/08 10:23 PM
breaking in engine
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papete
Member
Registered: 05/06/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Lewistown, Pennsylvania
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I have my engine back togather after installing new rings,rod and main bearings. I put in 30 weight oil. the engine started and is running fine. When should I change the oil and re-torque the head bolts. I have only run the car around the block and left it idle for 20 minutes. I am having trouble restarting the engine because the battery will not turn the engine over fast enough. How far and fast should I drive the car? Thanks
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#500830 - 04/08/08 11:16 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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v12lincoln
Member
Registered: 10/28/03
Posts: 317
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I change my oil after the first 30 minutes I run the engine to break in the cam which should be done around 1500-2000 rpm, then I take it easy for the first 100 mile diving at slow to 55mph, change the oil again and then srive it like I want. I retorque the heads after it cools after the first cam break in then again at 100 and 500 miles, everyone else might be different but Ive had no problems with my cars doing it this way. The only thing you have to worry about with the Lincoln V12 it there is only one temp sending unit and each water pump only cools one side of the engine so if your right side pump fails you can warp a head and not even know it, trust me ive been there. If you havent already done it send you water pumps to Skips. I had mine rebuilt by a very respected Lincoln dealer and the right one didnt work when I got it.Sorry for rambling.
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#500832 - 04/08/08 11:16 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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simplyconnected
Member
Registered: 11/06/07
Posts: 189
Loc: Detroit (Royal Oak), Michigan
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Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating. If it's a high performance engine, driving uphill will allow you to sustain a load, but avoid Giants Despair for awhile.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2176940718254465530
Sustained periods of idle speed doesn't help but may overheat your system if you only have a 4-blade fan. Drive vehicle normally but avoid sustained high speed during the first 100 miles.
After a few hot/cold cycles, retorque the heads. Is it real necessary? Engine plants never do, but proper retorque means you back the bolt off, then tighten to specs using moly lube on the threads.
After 500 miles, change your oil. Normally, a lighter oil is used for break-in. Heavy oil (30W) is used for very hot weather. That may be one reason your engine is so stiff. Sounds like you have a generator (that will discharge at an idle). They don't charge until you get some speed.
Dave
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#500950 - 04/09/08 01:43 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: simplyconnected]
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CBoz
Member
Registered: 12/15/01
Posts: 666
Loc: Chapel Hill, NC
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Interesting discussion. I actually put anti-seize on the bolt threads, which I suppose will have somewhat of the same effect. Even then, my experience is that you definitely have to retighten, especially with the aluminum heads.
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#501398 - 04/10/08 10:50 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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papete
Member
Registered: 05/06/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Lewistown, Pennsylvania
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Should the retorque be on a warm or cold engine? Thanks.
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#502334 - 04/14/08 11:03 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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papete
Member
Registered: 05/06/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Lewistown, Pennsylvania
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I retorqued the headbolts, changed the oil and drove 15 miles per day on two separate days and today the engine began to emit some knocking and pinging. I shut it down and will do a compression test tomorrow. Looks like I will be tearing the engine down again. Oh well, this is the first time I ever did engine work and it should be easier the second time around. Thanks for the helpful comments and I will let you know what develops.
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#502431 - 04/15/08 12:55 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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peecher
Member
Registered: 01/04/03
Posts: 507
Loc: Washington
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Pete, hopefully it just overheated, maybe low on water?
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#502565 - 04/15/08 09:19 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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papete
Member
Registered: 05/06/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Lewistown, Pennsylvania
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I did a compression test tonight and the results were between 50 and 62. I believe they were low because I had new gaskets, but the person helping me used blue gasket maker and did not uniformally apply it. I briefly started the engine and there was a loud rhythmic ticking noise. Sticking valve or bearing??? What next???
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#502582 - 04/15/08 09:31 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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V12Bill
Member
Registered: 07/02/03
Posts: 469
Loc: Mt. Holly, N.J.
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Compression on a new engine should be in the range of 105 115. What gaskets did you make out of "blue stuff"?You don't make head gaskets out of "blue stuff". This would cause uniformly low commpression numbers. A ticking noise could be valve lifters if you have hydraulic lifters and low oil or oil preasure.
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#504711 - 04/23/08 08:47 PM
Re: breaking in engine
[Re: papete]
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papete
Member
Registered: 05/06/07
Posts: 18
Loc: Lewistown, Pennsylvania
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Bad news--Good news. I did spin a rod bearing but the crank appears to be O.K. Amazing how the top bearing nestled down on top of the lower bearing. Thanks for all the helpful comments and suggestions.
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