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#448468 - 09/12/07 07:40 PM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: RocketDude]
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RocketDude
Member
Registered: 12/08/05
Posts: 426
Loc: So California
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I went to AutoZone and they have them is stock. $4.99 plus tax.... Here is a picture.
http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,Ballast%20re...EEDF37CA3E18ED4
They can't weight more than an once or two, so shouldn't cost must to ship........
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#448576 - 09/13/07 03:06 AM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: RocketDude]
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manncad
Member
Registered: 08/14/07
Posts: 21
Loc: Cognac France
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that would be so awsome if you get me this ballast resistor.
The old air filter has no number or name. They just call it Air Cleaner Filter Unit. Its quite big, with oil bath. I can't take it apart to clean the filter itself, and I dont think its papaer, it's most like a bunch of small wires. I don't know how to explain. if you give me an email, I can send you a picture.
if you ever find a resistor and a filter and ship it to me, don't worry for the payment back, my friend will send you a check from california.
As the mechanic worked on the car quite a long time, they want me to come back when I have the resistor and the filter to readjust the all thing, and then pay them, which is normal.
You know, I do believe the problem is the coil, it was so hot after 15 min drive, unreal.
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#448591 - 09/13/07 07:00 AM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: manncad]
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MCHinson
Member
Registered: 06/27/06
Posts: 757
Loc: Wilmington, NC
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It sounds like you have an oil bath air filter. Here is a link that includes a description and cleaning instructions for a similar one (although this one is specific to a VW).
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doityourself/l/aa081603d.htm
_________________________
Matthew C. Hinson
1929 Model A Phaeton
AACA, MAFCA, MARC
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#448597 - 09/13/07 07:43 AM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: MCHinson]
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manncad
Member
Registered: 08/14/07
Posts: 21
Loc: Cognac France
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yes, this is an oil bath air filter, I did change the oil but there is also a filter itself and it was very durty. This filter can't be taken off the unit, it's inside. The only way to clean the filter is to let it sit several hours in gasoline and then dry it off with compressed air. I did all this, it looked pretty clean but the car runs better without the filter on.
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#450735 - 09/23/07 05:59 AM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: RocketDude]
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manncad
Member
Registered: 08/14/07
Posts: 21
Loc: Cognac France
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here is an update,
I got a resistor from RocketDude and put it on this morning....but....the coil is still getting really hot. And also, after cleaning really good the oil bath air filter, I put it on, and the car was missing a lot. So, I took it off and the car was doing much better, still missing at high speed, but more like if I was pushing the brake pedal every 3 seconds or so. And then, as I said, when I came back home after 15 mins drive, the coil was hot.
I mounted it on the fire wall, with the wire of the ignition and the wire of the fuel pump on one side, the wire going to the + of the coil on the other side. So maybe I should try another coil, maybe it got too hot before, but I doubt it.
The car is still smelling gas and still black smoke.
I'm back at the beginning, not knowing what to do.
Maybe it's a ground that need to be wired somewhere.....I have no idea. What's sure is that the filter is not good.
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#450736 - 09/23/07 06:23 AM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: manncad]
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Ron Green
Member
Registered: 05/24/00
Posts: 1820
Loc: Camp Hill, PA. USA
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To check the coil take an ohm reading between the + & -- terminals when cold. For 6 and 8 cylinder engines you should be reading around 1.5 ohms or slightly greater. For 4 cylinder engines you should read around 3 ohms or slightly greater. Take another reading with the engine warmed up. A digital meter is much easier to reader then one with a pointer.
_________________________
Ron Green
AACA Member #337715
AACA Gettysburg Region (board member)
President Amphicar Club (IAOC)
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#451280 - 09/25/07 07:24 PM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: Ron Green]
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Ken G
Member
Registered: 06/13/02
Posts: 421
Loc: San Francisco
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I know nothing about Cadillacs and prefer magneto ignition (!) but an ignition coil is nothing but a large-ratio transformer. If the internal insulation has broken down, either on the low-voltage side or more likely on the high-voltage side, it might have a short-circuited turn. That would greatly reduce the spark, although perhaps you would still get enough for the engine to run, but it would almost certainly lead to excessive dissipation i.e. heat in the coil. It would be interesting to know what the average current consumption is (measured with a good old-fashioned analog meter because the digital ones give useless answers on currents that are varying rapidly). It should be no more than two or three amps. If it is significantly more, the coil is faulty.
Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)
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#451406 - 09/26/07 08:49 AM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: Ken G]
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Ron Green
Member
Registered: 05/24/00
Posts: 1820
Loc: Camp Hill, PA. USA
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Measuring the resistence (ohms) works just fine and a decent digital meter will also have a bar graph somewhere on the screen. I have done it many times checking coils and if there are breakdown issues, etc in the windings the meter will pick it up ohm wise. I always do a cold then warm / hot test as on occasion when things get hot they separate or resistence goes up throwing readings out of tolerance.
_________________________
Ron Green
AACA Member #337715
AACA Gettysburg Region (board member)
President Amphicar Club (IAOC)
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#451499 - 09/26/07 04:58 PM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: Ron Green]
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Ken G
Member
Registered: 06/13/02
Posts: 421
Loc: San Francisco
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I'm sorry, Ron, but that is not the whole truth. Yes, if the problem is an intermittent or permanent open-circuit, simple resistance tests will reveal it, and hot/cold tests might be more revealing. However:
a) The present problem might well lie, indeed is more likely to lie, in the secondary, that is, the high-voltage winding, and that would not alter the resistance of the primary (low-voltage) one which would be correct.
b) A short-circuited turn (as I say, more likely on the secondary) would have negligible affect on the resistance measured with a meter (of either the primary or the secondary).
I think the simplest solution (if it hasn't been tried already) is to try a different coil, perhaps even to borrow one, although as I recollect coils are not very expensive.
As a side comment, cars in Europe have operated on 12 volts since probably the 1930s (my 1925 Rover is and my father's 1934 Morris Cowley was 12 V), and so coils intended for 12 V operation without ballast resistors are commonplace (I had to change mine on a 1968 Mini). Using a lower voltage coil with a ballast resistor which is short-circuited while the starter is operating has the virtue of providing a fatter spark during starting without over-heating the coil in normal running, but my suspicion is that the practice arose first because in the US at least it allowed existing 6 V coils to be used in the new generation of 12 V cars.
Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)
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#451656 - 09/27/07 10:12 AM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: Ken G]
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Ron Green
Member
Registered: 05/24/00
Posts: 1820
Loc: Camp Hill, PA. USA
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Ken,
For the record I don't disagree with your statements. For me if the coil is reading defective after I check the ohm readings and it is not within tolerance ohms wise I replace the coil. Typically this always has fixed the problem.
Many times I will also do a high voltage test before I even do the ohm test. There are various ways and test methods and equipment for this such as: http://www.handsontools.com/store/show_product/?product_id=1938 though I use a cheaper version. I didn't mention this to Emmanuel as many don't have this or any type of high voltage tester, but do have a ohm meter.
In any case for me this is what I have found to work the best. Everyone does things differently and I have too many vehicles to keep an extra coil for each.
_________________________
Ron Green
AACA Member #337715
AACA Gettysburg Region (board member)
President Amphicar Club (IAOC)
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#451684 - 09/27/07 01:19 PM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: mrpushbutton]
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Ron Green
Member
Registered: 05/24/00
Posts: 1820
Loc: Camp Hill, PA. USA
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Good point. I have seen this wire rubbed to bare on occasion due to it being crammed into the distributor especially if converting to Pertronic's.
Also on some engines (Triumph comes to mind) there is a short ground wire from the distributor point plate that runs to outside the distributor to a ground. Sometimes this corrodes at the screws or will have an break in it that drives you crazy as it is intermittent . It works one minute and nothing the next.
_________________________
Ron Green
AACA Member #337715
AACA Gettysburg Region (board member)
President Amphicar Club (IAOC)
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#451950 - 09/28/07 01:39 PM
Re: Help me fix my 1949 Cadillac
[Re: Ron Green]
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manncad
Member
Registered: 08/14/07
Posts: 21
Loc: Cognac France
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Then, maybe I should check the wires from the points to the coil.
The ballast resistor I got did not take care of the problem. Coil still burning hot after 10 mins ride.
Also, anyone who knows where I can get an oil bath air filter for that type of car is welcome to let me know.
Is there any way to put photos on this forum. I could post some here and maybe you'll find the issue.
About the ohms or voltage check, I dont have the meters to do it, and I dont want to drive the car to another mechanic right now. But I will check as soon as I get one from someone.
thanks again
Emmanuel
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