Hi, I pulled my rearend from my 47 since it looked like it was leaking where the halves were joined together. Now with it out it looks like the forward seal is leaking also and it looks like it could use a good cleaning with a good paint job. I'm thinking since I have to pull the axles out to split the case to go on ahead and replace the axel seals also. The big question here is what would you do and what should I watch out for.

There will never be a more convenient time to do it than now, so go ahead. Follow the service manual carefully for the pinion bearing preload as you will upset it when you replace the pinion seal. Other than that, it's pretty much a no-brainer of a job.

In addition to replacing the pinion seal I would also remove the axles and repack the wheel bearings, and replace the inner and outer oil seals. It would be a good time to do a brake job (wheel cylinders and linings) too. One fix for a leak between the housing and the third member (after cleaning the mating surfaces) is to use copper washers next to the third member and steel washers on top of the copper ones (next to the nuts). Then torque the nuts to specification. A good 85W-140 gear oil would be a good refill lubricant. You may also want to replace the u-joints on the driveshaft at this time. How good is the rear transmission seal? What about the shock absorbers? This is a comprehensive suggestion list, but all the work is easier done at this time. Good luck.

Yes, John I was looking at replacing the shocks, and I did notice a drop of brake fluid. So it looks like a brake job is in line also. Packard has a Service Bulletin out about using a wire copper washer on top of the gasket, which replaces the flat copper washer, if I'm reading that right. Also I was thinking about using a little silicone sealant on the gasket when putting the halves back together.

Wes

Well finally got the rear end torn apart, boy does it stink. Found copper washers under the nuts besides pressed between the two halves. It looks like the main reason it was leaking is that the gasket had some breaks in it. Well so far the job hasn't been too bad. It looks like Kanter has a kit for rebuilding the rear end. I was just wondering if anyone has ever tried it?
Wes

while you have it out could you give me the length from backing plate to backing plate. it looks like a dodge 8 3/4" or ford 9 inch and im sure you could find one to replace it with if you are so inclined. if you need measurements for the dodge 8 3/4" diff check out
bigblockdart.com and go to thier tech pages and you will find the measurements for most of the body types there.

With the bake plates removed it measures 56 and 3/4 inches. Is this what your talking about?
Wes

Yes it is, Thanks. I would have to do some checking but that is about the same size as most Band C body dodges in case you are ever interested in swapping it out for something thats easy to get parts for.

I'm getting a replacement rear end for my '49 next week. I've never done anything like this before, and I'm just curious as to the steps in removing and replacing a rear axle as you're doing.

Jay, Pretty much loosen the Emer. Brake cable, remove the hub, disconnect the Hyd. Brake lines, disconnect the drive shaft ( Don't forget to wire up the Universal Joint bearings so they don't fall apart.). Than tie the shaft or put a block under it to keep it out of the way. Don't forget to remove the shocks. Disconnect the Emer. Brake Cable and remove the nuts to the U bolts. Also there's what I would call an Anti-sway bar that needs to be disconnected. And since I'm replacing all that I can I dropped the springs.
I think that's about it.
Wes