Hi all
I am getting ready to pull the 322 and dynaflow from my 53 super wagon and could use some help. The manual is almost no help in this area. What is the best way to remove the engine and trans? As a unit or separated. Also, any suggestions on how to disconnect the torque tube?

Thanks
Mike

It is easier to remove the transmission first because an engine / transmission combo is very long.

Really very long.

The torque tube is easy.

There are 4 bolts connecting it to the transmission.

You will have to fabricate some form of support for it because once the transmission leaves the front of the tube will hit the ground.
Use a chain or such across the frame for support.

You will also need some form of puller to separate the differential from the transmission.
A come-along works well.

Thanks for your imput I can use all the help I can get. The problem I have is that the engine is seized so I don't think I can separated the engine and trans while it is in the car. I am hoping I can get them apart later. You mentioned I would have to separate the differiental from the transmission and I'm not quite sure what you are describing.

Thanks
Mike

DO NOT DO THIS ALONE!!!!!!!!! have someone you know and trust with you at all times; have a third or forth person there in case of emergency, you may need someone to get a wrench you've just dropped or wipe the sweat off your face-out of your eyes, because you can't!
I would remove the grill, radiator and anything else that would leave just a gaping hole in the front of your car. Remove all fuel electrical and cooling lines to the motor, as well as exhaust pipes, etc. There should be four bolts attaching your torque-ball to the drive line, remove those. Remove the front motor mounts, then get your engine hoist ready and attach chains, or straps, or both, make sure your hoist is rated to hold the weight of the engine and tranny combined!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lift your motor out .5-inch (1/2-inch)then loosen the tranny mounts; you'll want to get a big floor-jack under the tranny to help guide it out, because it's going to be very heavy in the tail-end. Slowly lift it up and out. You may also want to remove the hood it may get in the way of the hoist.
If you get frustrated, stop, walk away, cool of, don't yell at the help, this is only a car, it's not a person or a pet: TAKE YOUR TIME, NEVER HURRY, BE SAFE!
I hope this was some help,
Jaybird

Thanks for the help. I have removed the front clip so nothing big will be in the way. I hope to get the engine and trans out this weekend and will keep you all posted. Thanks again.

Mike

Mike
Just removed the 322 with tranny from my 53. After its out lower it on one of those furniture dollies you buy at harbor freight with two 2x4s under the front of the oil pan and your engine will sit level and you can push it around your garage. Try it you'll like it. Don53

Hi all
I got everything out this weekend and it went smoothly thanks to all the help. The harbor freight dolly worked great. The problem I now face is separating the engine and trans. The engine will not turn. I took off the heads and the tops of the pistons look a little black, but no holes or deep scaring. I am soaking the cylinders with BJ blaster and MM oil. Any tricks to un stick a motor?

Thanks
Mike

Mike,

From the current (Nov 2008) issue of Hemmings Classic Car.....pg 91:

Reverse Engine Seize

....a new liquid formula that disolves corrision, freeing up engines of all types. etc, etc ...money back guarantee

www.enginerelease.com



Stevo

Stevo, interesting product claims. But looking at the site I found it "Contains diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers." Isn't Glycol what we use in coolant systems, or is this something else?

I see they recommend one bottle per cylinder on a V8 which, at $19.95 each means a lot of money to me.

I noticed that PB Blaster has petroleum distilates and can "restore hardened flappers" which sounds kinda weird to me. But if PB Blaster didn't do the job, I'd be inclined to consider the engine in need of a full rebuild.

Mike, make sure you have not crushed the flywheel against your dolly ( which also sounds kinda weird but you know what I mean). Next, I'd disect the front of the motor to take off the timing chain and see if it now turns. If not, I'm guessing you'd have to flip it over and disconnect the rods from the crank. If it doesn't turn over now then I'd be most surprised.

Mike, I agree with John, pull the caps off the rods: MAKE SURE YOU MARK THEM AND THE DIRECTION THEY POINT!!!!!!!!!!!! It's really easy to mix up the caps, never rely on the markings either, they're not always marked with the same/right numbers/marks; I found this out the really hard and expensive way! You might also remove/loosen the caps from the other bearings, just in case, as there my be something in them keeping it from turning (rust?)
After soaking the bores, use a nice chunk of wood (pine) and a rubber mallet to extract the pistons; make sure the crank-shaft is out: I like pine as it's soft and doesn't mar aluminum too easily.
Good luck,
Jaybird

Hi all
Thanks again for all the help. I will continue to soak the cylinders this week and then go for the pan if it won't free up. I will keep you posted. And thanks again.

Mike

You can get good leverage by using a 2ft long screwdriver between the block and the ring gear. I have also rigged a plate that bridged some cylinder head bolts and use a long fine thread bolt and nut to push on the piston. Use a block of wood and then steel plate over the piston. If it does not move right away, tighten and leave over night and then tighten some more while tapping on the other pistons.
Willie