Not sure if this is the right section but i have been reading on here for a few days and i think i may find the answers i'm looking for.

Here goes: I have an '86 Buick Regal with a 307 engine that has 95,000 miles. The Choke/oil light is coming on as soon as the car is warmed up, goes out when accelerating, but comes back on when decelerating and at a stop unless i put it in nuetral. Engine is running real hot and starting to knock a little from under the valve cover( sounds like lifters). Seems like low oil pressure.

I pulled the oil pan to get the the oil pump and the oil pickup screen was clogged with plastic/nylon particles and a couple small pieces of metal, so that may be my low oil pressure issue but i figure i'll replace the oil pump since it's already off anyways. Oil pump gears look good, no scoring or broken anything. I believe the junk in the pickup is from the cam gear. So, i plan on tearing that down to see what the issue is and most likely replacing both the cam and crank gear along with the timing chain.

Also, on the #1 cylinder (driver side front) i can move the piston up and down by hand about 1/4" inch, everything else is tight. What could this be?


Any suggestions on if i should just replace the cam gear if that's what's damaged or replace the entire gear set? Also, i've seen some "performance" gear sets and wondered if that was something i should look into or just a waste of $$$ being that the engine is all stock besides an open air cleaner and the smog pump being removed.

Here's the plastic crap i found in the oil pickup

The Olds 307 is supposed to be reliable, but I have my doubts. It is also not very powerful nor is there much equipment made to increase the power output.

This is to say that i think it is a waste to put anything more in there except standard parts. And if you are putting in a new timing gear, I suggest you get metal gears ( not nylon coated) and replace all the parts, cam and crank gears and the chain too.

Good luck

Yeah, it's been pretty reliable up until now. So, i'll get a gear set for it as well as a new oil pump since it's already out, but i'm still concerned as to why the #1 piston has some movement to it where it connects to the crankshaft.

Ya better pull down all the bearings to make sure they did not get scored from oil starvation. Problem on the piston sounds like either wrist pin or bearing at the crank. By the time ya add up all the $ you may want to think about a short block, if still avail. Reasoning is if the piston and crank bearings have gone, most likely the cam shaft is worn along with the lifters.

Short block isn't really an option as money is tight, i need a working car to get around right now, and don't have an engine stand or hoist.

I figure i'll replace the rod bearing that's got the play in it and possibly the others along with the gear set and oil pump and hope for the best.

O.K. get your point---while you have it open check the crank and rod bearings. Worse comes to worse you can fix the underneath and not have to open it up any further until your cash position improves. You can drive with a bad camshaft and or lifters. Since its a V8 everything does not have to be 100% to get from point A to B.

Yeah, that's the plan. Hopefully i don't use the last $$$ i have trying to get it fixed and then something else come up.

Was planning to get an engine stand and a 350 anyways over the winter to rebuild for the show season. Just can't do it right now and i would hate to buy someone else's junk engine, only to install it and have more problems than i already do.

Unless #1 was not firing at all I can not imagine the piston moving that much without the engine sounding like a blacksmith banging a hammer on an anvil. 1/4" of movement should result in a broken crank in a few seconds I'd think. For sure drop the pan and see what the low end looks like on that rod. Good luck.

Going to just pull the stock 307 and hopefully find a reasonably priced 350 to put in it's place. here's how much the #1 piston was moving.

Can't tell too much by your pic--could be my computer but of what I do see this engine is pretty much done. Sorry, hope ya find something better dirt cheap.

Chances are a 307 motor can be found relatively easy, which would allow use of the car while searching for a better quality motor.

Yeah, i'm going to see if i can hold out for a 350 first, rather than have to pull the engine twice.

Thanks for all the help guys.

It's a video(new to posting those), but basically that's my finger pushing on the bottom of the bearing cap to the #1 piston. Yeah, thanks to everyones input, i decided putting any money into it would be a waste and it's currently almost out of the car.