Any one know of a source that sells the small check valves that are inside the Ford- Lincoln fuel pumps.
Thanks

try Sacramento vintage ford, if they dont have the check valves they have the whole kit, just bought one for my 48,$35.

Thanks for the information. Having a lot of problems with the newer rubber style flappers in the check valves sticking and cracking. Think it might be the rotten gas we now have to purchase. Needle valves, etc sticking more than the old days.

the last kit I bougt which was 4 days ago had the hard disc in a brass housing, the old kit was a hard disc but in aluminum and as soon as they start to corroad the stop working, try some Stabil in your gas if its going to sit for more than 2-3 months it works good on all my cars.

On fuel pump check valves there are a couple of problems- first- what are the valves people are talking about? They are the "caged" type check valve, in use since about 1937-38. Early ones use a variety of metals - bronze. brass, plated steel and aluminum - for the valve body and the seat. Most today are made of die cast zinc alloy- less resistant to c orrosion than bronze or aluminum. The valve plate was then a hard bakelite, impervious to fuels, even todays. The valve is closed by a spring- often of copper plated spring steel. These valves were never really intended to be a 100% positive seal, but once a film of fuel is on the valve plate they do fairly well as long as the gas is clean. In the 1960's the valves were re-designed with various plastics and rubbers for the valve plates, getting a bit better seal, but using materials that are more prone to damage from fuel additives.
The valves you might find in flea markets or in kits from overseas would be suspect if the valve plates are white, transluscent, or appear to be many layers of rubber laminated together. These all get sticky in todays gas. You are better off with 1940 valves that 1960 ones!
The valves that are in commercial use today use a rubber plate inside the cage- it is supposed to be viton, which swells up less that other rubbers- but when you get some tough gas- especially if it has some of the other solvents the oil companies use for tank and line cleaning- like acetone- the check valve plates will swell up. With only .050" of space under the cage, this usually shuts the valve off.
In the kits that my company makes and provides in the fuel pump kits we make (and advertise in our club magazine, in case you hadn't noticed!) we go one better than the standard valves that are probably being imported from either South America or China. First we make all our parts here, using real US materials and people to die cut gaskets and machine parts. Then we specify Military spec Viton- which swells the least. And we re-designed the check valve to be an aluminum base (for corrosion resistance), the viton rubber disc, held down by a center post that holds a stainless steel spring. The valve is open, not caged and has sufficient travel so that even if the viton did swell, it would not choke off the valve operation.
Trouble is I do not sell them separately- I make them for the kits, so that you get all the parts that you need to do the job right, not just the one you think you need. Sorry about that- but I've been at this 35 years- long enough to know what works from what turns around and bites your hand for trying to help out!