As my friend Ron and I have often talked about, there is a 'Packard curse'. I've been going to ask about it on here and figured everyone would think I was a bit addlepated....after the last few posts, I don't have to ask... there really is such a thing....B

Yes, It's similar to the Chevvy-curse, Ford-curse, Buick-curse and many many Others.
Some Worse than others.

Rick, I know you've had some medical problems of late... you wouldn't even believe me if I told you all I've been through since owning the Packard, and lately, the curse has been on Ron.... This is just medical things I know.. plus all the other car problems going on.... I think maybe the Packard curse is worstestest of all....B

Sorry to hear of your problems.
In my case, I just screwed-up and didn't get medication for high blood pressure, like I knew I needed to. Since it made me feel weak when I tried taking pills about 8 years ago. So it's my own fault, not a fault of the Packard hobby that I've enjoyed, very much, for Many years.
Any time you're dealing with ageing, complicated machines like antique automobiles there's going to be many failures and problems, but that's all 'Part of the Fun' for me.
If someone doesn't enjoy dealing with the many problems that are found with any old car, that is driven, then it's probably Not the best hobby for them to be involved in.

Did you use a DTM (Direct to Metal) primer, or did you use "etch" before you sprayed the primer. If the primer was not DTM, and you didnt use "etch" then that may be why the primer is peeling.

Bad week. Just found out my oldest sister (61) died after back surgery. I wasn't close to her as she estranged herself from the family, but I'm flying cross country for the funeral to pay my respects.

Ken,

Sorry to hear about the lose of your sister.

Rick,
Yes I used SPI Epoxy primer. But before spraying it I used some PICKLEX to rid some rusting that started after cleaning off the WD-40 with water and ammonia. I should have read the tech sheet for the SPI Epoxy before spraying. Written in bold letters NEVER use SPI Epoxy over a Soda Blasted vehicle, Acid etch/wash primers, Rust Converter or other Metal Treatments. NEVER!

I planned on sanding down the epoxy in spots to do filler/body work but was not expecting having to strip it all back off.

You can use PPG DP-90 after soda blasting, it's pretty easy on prep, you just need to do some kind of rust removal and prep before application.

Was thinking I may need to go another route for the first stage of priming because of the issues I have had. I have another gallon of SPI Epoxy coming which I will probably use for a sealer after I figure out what I can use on top of the Picklex.

John, do you know if PPG DP-90 can be used over a metal prep?

Absolutely! I always wiped down the metal prepped area with DX-330 wax and grease remover just before painting to insure there are no oil spots, not even finger print oils on the metal. It's remarkably unfussy.
Then on to K-36 (or equivalent) surface build-up primer for rusted metal, and yes, body filler when necessary.

Wipe down twice with DX-330 (use plenty), seal with DP-90 ($141/gal), primer with K-36($152/gal)using K201 Primer Surfacer Catalyst ($64/qt) followed by the filler of your choice. Pay attention to the instructions as to how long you have to topcoat the DP-90 before it is necessary to scuff. Make sure your mixing containers were not made using a silicon mold release. Never store parts in plastic bags unless you are sure no silicon mold release is present. Same with masking plastic. Silicon is the enemy.

Restorer32,

Will DX-330 or any other types of w&g remover remove the metal prep stuff I used?

Thanks for the info on the products to use.

I use Acetone ($15.gal) to clean completely. Needs to be done at least several hours before painting, to let dry completely. Then wipe down with Isopropyl-alcohol ($4.qt) just before painting (to remove dust and finger-prints). They work great and no need for expensive cleaners.

BTW- For those that don't know, Acetone is pronounced Ass-a-tone.

Thanks all for the advice. I don't want to have to go thru this again.

Rick,
Have you had any adhesion problems using ACETONE?

Acetone is one of the Best and Safest solvents there is. It's probably the main ingrediant in the expensive paint-store solvents.
As long as it has completely evaporated before applying paint, there's No problems.
If fillers (Bondo, etc.) have been used then it's best to let it sit overnight, since Acetone will soak into filler slightly and takes longer to evaporate. That's true with any solvent.

Isopropyl Alcohol is something like 90% water? We wouldn't use it.

It would really be best if solvents are Not applied to fillers, if possible.

It can be purchased in different percentages (low at drug-stores). What I use when painting is 70% alcohol. It is also available at 90% and 100% alcohol.
I've used 90% but it cost more and the 70% works Great. (removes oily finger-prints with one wipe)

Yep, you are right, 70% or better. I was wrong. Still not sure I would risk using it under expensive sealers and primers. DX330 isn't that expensive. Personally I wouldn't risk $300 in sealer and primer to save $10, not to mention the labor to redo everything. Learned that lesson the hard way long ago. Use the minimun # of products reccommended by the paint supplier from the bare metal out. Don't mix brands, find a brand you like and use their products exclusively. Recoat times are critical as is shelf life of products, especially hardeners and catalysts.

Last year when I did filler work I stripped off the epoxy in that area before applying the filler and then sprayed with fresh epoxy hopefully that filler has held.

That's the thing, I don't use Expensive sealers and primers, Either.
I use inexpensive stuff, that works and looks Great. LOL

Sorry about that, just havin' Fun!

I almost typed "different strokes for different folks" but that wouldn't be appropriate given your recent experience. Glad you're back in the swing of things. A good attitude goes a long way. I have seen great paint jobs done using inexpensive materials and I have seen lousy jobs done using the best materials. Years ago gasoline was used as paint thinner and it worked ok. Lots of ways to get to a similar end result.

I've found that you can apply filler over epoxy-primer (since it is hard and durable), as long as primer is lightly sanded first, which doesn't work too well with other primers.

Yes, Very True.

Tom,

Why don't you get an inexpensive blasting outfit to remove any rust that may develop?