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Pedal Car Auction

ONLY A FEW
TICKETS REMAIN!


Night at the AACA Museum Charity Gala

Wed, Oct 8, 7-10PM.

Enjoy an evening of all things automotive. FINS exhibit, guest speakers, and a unique pedal car auction by RM Auctions.

Tickets required.


NEW! Safari

1941 Packard

1956 Cadillac

Packard protégé

1953 Oldsmobile Fiesta

Buick Y Job

2 of the pedal cars will be auctioned on Wed, Oct 8, the balance will be auctioned at the RM Auctions on Friday.

Proceeds to benefit the AACA and AACA Museum.

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#524557 - 07/19/08 01:23 AM Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head
Paul K. Offline
Member

Registered: 02/25/07
Posts: 55
Loc: San Diego, CA
I have to remove the left cylinder head (cast iron) on my 41. I have never worked on a flathead and there are no areas to grab the head except for the water outlet but I want to be careful with that. All bolts are removed and the head will not budge. Any tricks or ideas are appreciated. Thanks,

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#524604 - 07/19/08 11:50 AM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Paul K.]
Cokekid Offline
Member

Registered: 06/28/08
Posts: 24
Loc: Ontario, Canada
I read someware in a magazine that if you loosen all the bolts just a bit and start the engine so the compression may lift the head just enough for you to remove it.

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#524612 - 07/19/08 12:59 PM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Cokekid]
Paul K. Offline
Member

Registered: 02/25/07
Posts: 55
Loc: San Diego, CA
Common sense made me thinnk of that, but I wanted to see if it had been done. Any other ideas? Thanks.

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#524614 - 07/19/08 01:04 PM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Paul K.]
peecher Offline
Member

Registered: 01/04/03
Posts: 557
Loc: Washington
When you say you removed all the "bolts" do you mean the studs that go thru the head or just the nuts that screw onto these studs? If the studs are in place you might try using liberal amounts of Kroil around them to help dissolve the corrosion. This may take while. Tapping/jarring the cylinder head may also help. The studs can be very tight in the block and you do have to be careful not to snap them off if you try to remove them. Good luck

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#524622 - 07/19/08 02:15 PM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: peecher]
Paul K. Offline
Member

Registered: 02/25/07
Posts: 55
Loc: San Diego, CA
Most of the studs stayed in the block except for maybe four. I did squirt some WD-40 around the studs and packed it up yesterday. I know extreme caution should be taken when prying heads, etc. however the head gasket on these engines appears about twice the thickness as modern engines. As a last resort has anyone used a large screwdriver as a chisel to drive between the head and block to pry loose the head? Thanks.

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#524633 - 07/19/08 04:12 PM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Paul K.]
papete Offline
Member

Registered: 05/06/07
Posts: 28
Loc: Lewistown, Pennsylvania
If you remove the intake manifoled and look along the bottom of the top of the head you mighe see two indentations about 1 or 2 inches in length where you could put a screwdriver. Take your time and do not force things too much

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#524722 - 07/20/08 01:37 AM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Paul K.]
Phil Knapp Offline
Member

Registered: 02/09/03
Posts: 780
Loc: Round Rock, Texas
WD-40 is pretty good stuff. I use it to clean the grease off my hands.

"KROIL" that Peecher mentioned is a lot better than WD-40 for loosening rusted things. KROIL is not available to the general public but can be purchased through The Eastwood Company. However, it's cheaper if you buy it directly from the manufacturer, Kano Laboratories. You'll need to use a company name to buy it from them.

Kano also has some stuff called "Sili Kroil" which contains silicone lubricant.

Do a Google on KROIL or go to www.kanolabs.com
_________________________
Phil Knapp

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#524738 - 07/20/08 07:32 AM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Phil Knapp]
no more Offline
Member

Registered: 09/26/05
Posts: 475
ok, i hope u have them off by now...they are iron heads, iron block...go easy but get the hammer out..rap easy you will break them loose...no fellas, I know they can be damaged..but I have never broken any and I started doing this as a clumsy kid..
I like a thin "scraper" thin metal thing ..hammer inbetween head, block..It is a slow gradual process, relative to the
lenght of time they have been on..but..no big deal..
once it is a little loose.use the casting to jerk up /down..you will have to lift the firewall end too,once both are moving,wiggle wiggle wiggle up off the studs.a real pain in the .....no not that, the back.
I know some dissagree but I would have that head trued/planed to clean up mating surface (unless recently done)
Be sure to buy new issue felpro head gasket..with better larger hole..(search sub on this forum)
good luck..(hope your back is strong) have fun, remember
this is supposed to be fun!!


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#524775 - 07/20/08 11:57 AM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Phil Knapp]
peecher Offline
Member

Registered: 01/04/03
Posts: 557
Loc: Washington
Phil, There must be some "local" ban on Kroil? It's available in the parts stores up here in Washington State.

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#524787 - 07/20/08 12:43 PM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: peecher]
Phil Knapp Offline
Member

Registered: 02/09/03
Posts: 780
Loc: Round Rock, Texas
I don't know how they get around the warning on the can that states: "For industrial use only".

Eastwood sells Kroil (for a substantially marked up price) to anybody with a credit card! I haven't seen Kroil for sale anywhere here in Texas and of course it's illegal to be sold in California (what isn't?)

I like "Sili Kroil" because of the added silicone lubricant. I used it to free up a very rusted pair of pliers a tenant left behind in our rental house. It worked great!
_________________________
Phil Knapp

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#526243 - 07/26/08 12:56 AM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: Phil Knapp]
nasmith Offline
Member

Registered: 08/02/06
Posts: 51
Interesting - I can buy both Aero Kroil and Sili Kroil at the parts store in Dana Point.

Norm

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#538424 - 09/18/08 12:05 AM Re: Trouble removing V-12 cylinder head [Re: nasmith]
Bob Call Offline
Member

Registered: 11/25/07
Posts: 134
Paul

When I remove a head from an old engine I start with a stiff blade putty knife. I drive it between the head and block in several places. This will start pulling the gasket apart. Then I step up to a small nail puller/pry bar that has a very thin flat end a little thicker than the putty knife. Tap it in a couple of places and the head will pop loose.

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