Hey Tom,
There is a good bit of difference in ambient temperature between us. Southside Virginia is 100 deg. everyday. I am s writing at 11:45 PM the temp on my deck overlooking the water is 85. my computer home page reads 83. Car_Chick is a little north of me.
I personally would not run anything other than 10/30 unless I was blowing oil, smoking, or something like that and wasn't expecting much more out of the engine anyway. With these temps. they could certainly be OK with the 15/40 but I really would not like it in January or February.. and in Cal. "Fer Surr"

That's it, I'm gonna buy 5 quarts of 90 weight from AutoStoned in the morning just to see what happens Wait, what was this thread about before the banter ?

I run the heavier stuff AND some Lucas and have for a long time, it's possible the increased pumping efforts are costing me some milage/power... But I still make plenty of power and don't really closely calculate mileage on the project cars


Alan

My point as well Lou. After all we are having this discussion in the middle of July. When November rolls around I will be back to 10W-30. Those hot "Death Valley Virginia" temperatures can start to drop very sudden in December. As for you 16V TC and myself, we are just gonna have to agree to disagree and try so as to not be disagreeable. After all are we not all here as a result of a passion of the same interest. I think we can put this subject to rest.

Hey guys, how about the pro's opinion????
I just got my turbo rebuilt (89 2.2) after 155000 miles.
Thats "turbos unleashed" in Phoenix. They may have some
other opinion on what makes one run longer that another.

I've been on a 'few' automotive forums over the years and two subjects universally degrade into hostility, bickering, and "I know better than you do" type of replies. They are:

What type of oil is best/should I use?

And

What type of spark plugs are best/should I use?



Moving onto other aspects of TC ownership...

Alan

Hey Alan,
Let's see The most animated automotive discussions I have had were with What kind of:
Tires work best.
Gasoline was best,
Oil worked best,
Spark Plugs/Wires/Ignition Systems
and I think the last one is:
Auto Wax/Polish

Animated-Nice word for let's argue about it But yeah, those are doozies too.

Alan

proper cool down makes the turbo last longer. Getting that hot oil away from the bearings. 645,000 on my turbo albeit the Cummins in my Dodge.

Let me qualify the above statement as just my personal opinion. My opinion is in no way meant to sway or influence the attitude of this forum or the TC club. Use of this opinion should be taken with great care and at one's own risk. In no way do I assume responsibility for the use or misuse of the above mentioned personal opinion and can not be held liable. Happy motoring!

Hey David, What do they call that "Waffleing".??
Oh Yea! and another thing for you folks unfamiliar with Corvair designations.. a "140" is a turbocharged 168 cu. in. air cooled flat4 the first of that configuration engine rolled off the line in 1963.. No fancy boost restrictors were used, they just combined the carbureator venturi size and restrictions in the muffler to safely control boost.. Naturally I installed an oversize carb. and 2"exhaust with glasspack muffler. ~ And ~ yes david let it idle 2 minutes before shut down.. Lou

No Lou, that is lawyering up to the bar.

Bingo. Cooked oil in the turbo is not good.

I hate to disagree with you but the first turbo Corvairs were 145 cu in flat sixes with 150 hp. The 65 and later were 168 cu in flat sixes. The 140 hp had four single barrel carbs and the turbo also has 168 cu in but with 180 hp

Used to drive them you see.......................Griz

You are correct, my typing speed got ahead of my brain speed. I had 13 Corvairs at one time, two of which were my daily drivers both of show quality; but kickers just the same. All configurations started as 143 cu. in. engines. The powerhouses were 4 carbs. or turbos. They started in "late" '63 models called Spyders then when the body style changed in '64 (model year '65) the engines changed to 164 cu. in. & they call them Corsas The 4 carb were rated at 140 hp, the turbos were rated at 180 hp. the faster cars were the 4 carb 140s. when the intakes and exhaust sustems on the turbos were opened up, then top end was limited only by the cars aero. Putting on a large stiff airdam in the front helped a lot; but we didn't have any knowledge of side skirts yet.. The 140s were still faster off the line. Sorry about the miss info, Lou (old & sometimes confused)

One of my TCs runs normal oil pressure and the other always runs a high pressure on the gage. I haven't made my mind if it is a problem or not. What say you all to that?
Mike

Mike, My old Dodge truck is the same way , being on the high side. Come to find out, it is an electrical issue with the gauge. Put a manual gauge on it to answer your question in your own mind. You do not have to mount one permanent. Hook it where the pressure sender comes out , a simple hand gauge will do. Lots of times you can not put much stock in the accuracy of an electric gauge. Sure it will let you know if you have pressure or not but it may be a good idea to cross check it with a hand manual gauge. Good luck, David

Hey, is this a Corvair forum or what? Just kidding Griz and Lou I've seen a few that I really like but there is a sky blue (and rust colored) beater 'vert that I see around town that kinda ruins it for me. It's trashed out, clapped out and doesn't have a strait panel on it, he keeps the floorboards so filled with fast food and other trash it looks like a family of packrats live in it . Someone should take that car away from him. Hmm, I bet if the fanbelt got loosened or cut somehow, he'd probably drive it till the motor siezed


Alan