I finally got around to trying to replace my Evaporator. Something the Service Manual says requires the removal of the HVAC unit. I've disassembled the interior, probably more than I needed to, to completely expose the HVAC unit that needs to be removed. This includes the lower portion of the dashboard and ductwork as well as the top portion required to "swing down" the dashboard. So I'm stuck looking at it at this point. The manual says to remove the a/c and heating hoses and two people lift the dash and roll the unit out from under. I'm in a little disbelief that there aren't any bolts securing the HVAC unit to the firewall. I do see what appears to be one bolt secured to the HVAC via a rod bolted to the firewall. Is that it? Has anyone ever removed this big unit out?

I would attach a picture but my camera needs new batteries...

Hello again. Lots of looks but no advice...yet. I hate going this far and then resorting to a shop to do the job. So far, the cheapest estimate I've received is $700- to replace the evaporator (three shops).

Attached are some photos of where I'm stuck. The first two shots are of the firewall side. Are these the two bolts holding the HVAC unit to the firewall? Are there more?

Next photo is looking under the dash from the inside. I believe the circled item is the evaporator but I still need to get the HVAC unit *out* to replace.

Last photos are looking down behind dash between interior firewall. Not so good as its hard to shoot.

By the Service Manual, sect 24-35 HVAC unit housing removal and installation:

1-5) check
6) remove floor distribution duct from housing. DONE
7) Remove upper instrument panel pad. DONE
8) Remove instrument panel mounting screws along windshield. DONE
9) Lift up on instrument panel assembly while pulling HVAC back and rolling it out under the panel. WTF? IS IT NOT BOLTED ON ANYPLACE? I'VE PULLED BUT IT DOESN'T SEEM TO BUDGE...

HAS ANYONE DONE THIS BEFORE?!?

I haven't done a TC but the second pic is one of them. The lower hole should also have a bolt and I think there is at least a third towards the center of the car. You also have to disconnect the ac lines at the firwall and the expansion valve there.
I just checked a spare box in the shop. There is one right by the expansion valve, the one you circled in pic two, another below that in the lower hole and one close to the heater hoses (your first pic).
New metal gaskets, expansion valve, and drier. Converting to 134 you need to drain the oil from the compressor and add polyester? oil. Add the same amount you drained. When tightening the bolt for the new drier, I gently persuade the mating surfaces to stay aligned with vise grips. The one bolt tends to cock the surfaces if not careful.

I have only replaced the heater cores and it was neccesary to remove the whole box. Be careful removing the cable from the flap door. The shaft is plastic and will break if careless.
You still have to disconnect the vac cpmtrol lines (red white, yellow etc. Plus a couple others. There is one by the right kick panel up high, and at least one by the transmission hump. These are black vac lines that go through the firewall near the accelerator cable.

Thank You!

To ensure I understand, I have identified two of the three correct bolts with a third one on the pasenger side (expansion valve side) lower down?

And then the unit will roll out?

I understand I need to do the heater hoses (and gray vacuum line) as well as disconnect the expansion but I wanted to be able to visualize the next step. I also understand the removal of the vasuum lines in the pictures. Is one of the other connections the blower motor?

Thank you, thank you, thank you. I've been staring at it at this point for two weeks (and driving a disassembled interior).

BTW, the flap door was already broken (no air through vents; only alternating between defrost and floor). What is the fix for the flap door normally? I guess I'll have a better idea when I pull the HVAC unit out completely.

Again, thank you!!!

BTW, the flap door was already broken (no air through vents; only alternating between defrost and floor). What is the fix for the flap door normally? I guess I'll have a better idea when I pull the HVAC unit out completely.
THAT flap door problem is a vac leak "somewhere" there is another that is operated by the temp lever cable.

On the cars I worked on, "roll out" is a euphemism. Gently persuade would be more accurate. You might as well do the heater core while it's out. I know you won't need it much, but I doubt you would want to go through all this again.

Another question on this topic.

Would you happent to have photo of the HVAC unit that is out? Backside of the screws if possible. I think I found the third bugger but just want to be sure.

Thanks.

Darrin

Here you go. I just happen to have a Turbo Mopar with no engine. I wonder how that happened?

Is the circle on the farthest left with the masking tape under it the condenser drain tube?

That is one of the 4 bolts. The drain tube is way down behind the powere steering pump in the pic.

Bill,

Thanks for the help so far.

Half way there, I hope.

By the way, understatement of the day, "You might as well do the heater core while it's out. I know you won't need it much, but I doubt you would want to go through all this again."

Hey but I will keep posting pix through the project...

BTW, does anyone who is parting out a car have the little plastic vent door arm I need? I *really* don't want to go to the junk yard for one.

Also, as a later project, I need the little motor for the driver's door lock. Mine was stripped.

Darrin,

Are you referring to the door lock actuator from inside the door? I have a complete driver's door and everything works on it, so I'm sure I have the part you need. I just need to verify what part that is.

This doo-hickey.

If you hear a thunk when you push the button, you will probably find a broken plastic clip at the "L" part. I think early in the 80's it had a metal clip that won't break.

the metal clips can be found on most mopars in the 60s & 70s ,they were used on door locks ,doorhandle linkage ,air cond ,heater controls and a few carb linkages ,find an older mopar and you can reap a harvest ,i can remember when i could get into doing dashes , over and under them ,my hat is off to you for your patience and agility .when you get thru you will have the most renewed T C around .

the metal clips can be found on most mopars in the 60s & 70s ,they were used on door locks ,doorhandle linkage ,air cond ,heater controls and a few carb linkages ,find an older mopar and you can reap a harvest , there are right and left hand clips ,i can remember when i could get into doing dashes , over and under them ,my hat is off to you for your patience and agility .when you get thru you will have the most renewed T C around .

Before I removed the door lock, it sounded like silverware in a garbage disposal.

Now I only hear the silent thunk of the passenger side which is working still.

I think I have it, although isn't it supposed to have a rubber boot over the cylinder? Give me a day or 3 to check for it ok?

Okay a new evaporator and heater core should be here tomorrow and, luck of luck, one of the dodge dealers in town had the plastic door I needed!

Pix below.

Notice the old black door is broken at the swivel attachment.

See what kind of wildlife you can find in an HVAC!

Okay, HVAC Unit back in car and all vents are now working.

Next forum topic: changing out the condenser.

I'm very happy that you "Got er done"

I repeat my hats off to you for a job well done . there a lot of [ mechanics ]out there that would not tackle that kind of job . of course they dont have the backup of these guys on this line .

And the Condenser is now installed. Three hours and I did an oil change as long as I had it on a lift.

I used the Automotive Craft Shop, a deal on the Postg where they rent you a bay and all tools for $3-/hour. A really great deal. Has anyone ever heard of something like this in the civilian world? I know it would be more expensive, but I wonder if the reason they don't exist is because of the lawsuit potential.

Anyway, I've finished "my parts" with the Evaporator and Condenser. Time to move it over to the A/C shop for the completion of the work (new compressor, hoses, oil, freon, etc.). Maybe next time I'll do the rest of the job myself but, for $450- for the above, I don't know what I'd save. I think 134 and oil would cost at least $120; not sure what the hoses, gaskets, compressor would run...

Yes and yes and yes. They used to have some places like that and they disappeared.
I get free use of a 6 bay garage on Saturdays at my mechanic. That's only for customers of 45 years with old cars...and the police chief. It's really nice to have a choice of 3 different style hoists and a fortune in tools.
Oh, he showed me how to pump down and charge my a/c on his equipment also. and the chief of police was handy when I needed someone to kick a 5 speed transmission when it didn't want to slip in place.

Darrin,

I've been out of town this past week. Do you still need the door lock actuator thingie?

S

hi darrin,im on the trail of the under hood silencer template ,and not sure if its still with you or you have passed it on can you help please thanks alan