HI,
I have been reading all of this "back & forth" and I still don't know If you have taken the car to a tech that has a good ECM "reader" and is experienced to understand what he reads.????? Lou

Never seen the ECM do it, but I've seen the distributor gear wear out and do it (it's nylon), broken pick up coil wires do it (they can rub and cause intermittent cutting out under load before breaking entirely), bad coils do it, bad coil wires do it...

I would pick something else in the ignition system before the ECM. Like Lou and other said, maybe someone to scan your systems for you?

Problem is I dont have any money to get a tech involved. I cant seem to find a break in the wire it goes into the main loom then comes out on the driver side next to the battery and ecm. Ive replaced the coil twice so I dont think thats it.

Do I just need to yank the distributor to check the gear?

NO YOU CHECK THE POSITION OF THE ROTOR like I've already told you. I'm not gonna get all snippy with you but If you don't go the procedures I'm outlining, I'm out on helping with this. Do us a favor, as you check the things that are suggested, say so in your next posts so we can keep eliminating possible causes. It's the only way these suggestions do any good.

ECM's DO fail but rarely, it's way far down on my list of things to check... You might take the 8mm bolt out of the harness connector, check the overall condition (loose wires, corrosion, spread pins etc) but keep narrowing down the suspects.


Alan

Which cylinder is #1?

do you even own a tech manual or FSM for your car? basic things are in it, any 2.2L chrysler motor has the same outline if its an 8 valve

All the way to the passenger side of the car.

Alan

Thanks twincam.

Sure thing. The rotor is turning when the engine cranks right??

Yes, I havent gotten a chance to go out and check the distributer timeing yet.

Not just for the dist. timing, I am trying to establish that the cam is turning. Cam belt failure is WAY more common than ECU failure...

I did check that the cam is turning.

Hi again 'Monster'. Your old buddy Hemi here. I've been reading all the posts here and Alan is correct, you got to answer our suggestions with a logical answer for us to help.
First of all is to establish that the distributor rotor is turning when you crank the starter. If so, then the cam is turning too.
Your initial indication is that it quit at wide open throttle.
I'm sure you went into overboost.
Code 11 indicates that there is NO DISTRIBUTOR SIGNAL, so that MUST be addressed first.

You said, "I was a marine mechanic until about a year ago."

Then what happened? I've been an auto mechanic for 50 years, and a US Marine. So where does that get us?

Follow through on the #11 code. With no distributor signal, it 'ain't never' going to start.

I don't know where the mechanic will get you, maybe able to help a lot of people and save em some money? As for the marines, or any other service to our country, I see it as you serve my country, you serve me and I owe you, so you tell me, what can I do for you?

Respectfully yours,

Wild Bill

Well its still not running. Ive done everything and I think the only thing left is the ecu.

let's start a new thread this way.
I live in timbuktu or whereever. (there may be some turbo-mopar fanatics nearby.)
Car is 89 8 valve automatic.
Fault codes are......

Here are some reference sites for you to go digging.
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/

the following section may be of particular interest with the code 11.
http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/electrical-powerfeeds.html#enginefeed

Also check the following site.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/index.php
Post in the help section as I described above.

russ Knize aka Minimopar is on there along with some of the members here.

hemi also put together a simple fact on this other site for no starts.
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/cKEtSPbDUJm67VEi0Z17exY_nKS-ldk5NtZtsmmOm8seFbhMjmukd252F6OvtOb9B0kpBJyZfcyk67CHgwY/diagnostics/No%20start.txt

You apparently have one of the problems that require more digging than usual.

Addendum I had problems with the J2 Z1 wires. They had spade connectors that corroded on another mopar I have. The trouble spot if that is the problem is UNDER the smec and to the LEFT of the battery. If checks show a problem with them pull the battery and the smec. Open the wiring stuffed down under where the smec was. There is plenty of extra wire on the two connectors to crimp new connectors on.

If you feel like typing, recap the symptoms before it happened and EVERYTHING you have tried/inspected. I'll give it another read and a better than averidge guess... DO you have another SMEC module yo can try? I may have a spare or three, whatcha got for trade


Alan

Bill,
the last link for hemi's fix wasnt successful. was the page removed?

I'm reading along this thread and am wondering if this problem could be intermittent. My TC has had a couple of long cranks in the last two months as well as two stalls while driving (one time at highway speed and it restarted itself). To answer the question up front, I haven't looked for any stored fault codes...