Snubbers or stabilizers are shock absorbers that work only on the downward movement of the axle. They all (as far as I know) consist of a large clock spring that resists the downward motion of the axle. The Hasslers on my Chrysler also have a friction plate to act in conjunction with the clock spring. This would be a good time for someone more knowledgeable than myself to chime in. Any takers?

This a picture of the backside of an inner door assembly showing a door lock spring in place.

Harry,

The way that I know it is a Hayes body is because there is an ID plate on the floor as soon as you open up the driver's door. It reads "Hayes Body Corp. Grand Rapids Mich.
#99-7432"

I am very interested in the repro plate. It is identical to mine! Please let me know.

I'll work on trying to figure out how to down load these pictures to show you the body.

Dan

1929Chrysler....I'll be glad to sell you one $20.00 including shipping and handling, give me a call.

Harry,

Those types of springs you are looking for are always being sold on E-bay. There is one seller who claims to have thousands of different styles.

Go to E-bay Motors and punch in item #140215993814. Those are obviously not your springs but you can hit the "Ask the Seller" button and you can tell him what you need and maybe he might be able to help you.

Dan

1929Chrysler....It's not the number you gave me .....but...sure nuf.. the the springs I am looking for are for sale on E-Bay. Thanx!

I have just finished a 20 year restoration of a Windsor Ontario built Model 72 coupe R/S. It is a close to original as I can possibly get it. I can not find an oilfilter. Many pieces had to be manufactured (i.e bolts, steering wheel light and gas control levers. The wood frame was in excellent shape but I did obtain a Fisher Body Service Manual. It is interesting that the manual for Chevolet bodies and Chrysler bodies appear to have been basically identical. I wish you every success with your project.

Restoration specialities in Winber, PA has a BLUE MILLION of those springs, and they are cheap. That's the good news. The bad news is you can't call them up and say "1929 Chrysler four-door" and they know what to send. Here's what you do: take your old spring off of the latch assy, clean it up, put it in a photocopy machine and push "copy", this will produce a faxable picture of the spring that is good enough to use. measue the dimensions at the end section and write that on the copy/picture of the spring and fax it to restoration specialties. They recomended this procedure to me and they got me the springs I needed fast, at a good price.

John...Jack.... thanks for the response! Jack, I would really like to see some photos of your Royal Sedan. If you could post some that would be great. I would also like to talk to you and learn some about your restoration. As to the oil filter supplied with the series "72", two types were fitted during the production run. Those were Purolator types SG-2 and SA-2. The SG types required a die cast manifold and the SA types had the oil line run in the top and exit the bottom. I have been lucky enough over the years to acquire a NOS example of both. If you go to Hershey and are persistant enough I am sure you can find one of these filters. John, I bought and have received the door handle springs I was looking for, although I have made a note of the source you recomended. To update those of you that are following my progress in this task; I have received the springs and cork that I was looking for. I have also had the hood shelves and an extra set of rear fenders stripped and readied them for my body man. I have to wait, as my body man is in the process of moving to a new location to have these parts straightened and primed. At present I am applying myself to the last bit of woodwork I need to do, which is reproducing some of the floor boards. I have contacted my engine guy and given him the heads up that I plan to get with him soon to start the engine rebuild. When my body guy gets settled in his new shop I hope to get the splash aprons and front fenders to him for his professional touch. The next parts I will need in my process are the interior and exterior handles and the carburetor. The carburetor may be impossible except at enormous expense as it was a die cast unit and was prone to zinc disease. The unit was a Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37. This was one of the first dual throated carbs ever built. I have several examples of the unit including a NOS example; however all are bad. Did any other cars run this unit?

Harry,

When I had my engine overhauled it had the original pistons and rings in it. A few of the rings were broken and were not any thing that could be replaced so I had to go with a new set of pistons. Problem was that Egge was selling a complete set for $900!! Did some research and found out that the '33-'41 Plymouth used the exact size piston. Found an NOS set at.10 over for $10!! We had to slightly modify the conecting rods but it worked out great and the Plymouth pistons had 4 rings as opposed to the Chrysler which only had 3 so over all it was a better piston any how. It pays to do your homework!!

Are you looking to put the extra $$ in trying to get an original carb. for the car or a replacement? I had the same problem with the pot metal on my original Stromberg U2. I ended up going with a replacement Carter BB-1. If you are looking for what kind of replacement, There is a gentlemen who responds to these posts by the user name "CarbKing". He is extremely knowledgeable and helpful when it comes to these questions

Dan

1929Chrysler...Thanx for the tip....When me and my engine guy rebuild an engine, he orders the pistons from J&E out on the west coast. We do this because these are forged aluminum and precision machined. Cast type pistons are prone to failure due to defects in the casting process.These custom units cost about the same as todays cast units. My car was origanally fitted with dyked rings which are not available today and I would not use this type of ring even if I could acquire them. I don't know if they used dyked rings in 1929. My objective in engine rebuilds is reliability and cost is not a primary consideration. By the way....are you still interested in the firewall plate or did you find another source? I am selling these at cost as I had to order 50 copies to get one. Yes, if I can't reproduce the Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37 I will use a CarterBB-1; which was a universal after market replacement updraft unit.

Here are some pictures of the challenges/projects I am now working on. The top picture is the Pemberthy Ball & Ball SV-37. The unit you are looking at is a NOS carb; however, you will note upon close examination the ravages of zinc disease. I really would like to reproduce one of these carbs. If I am lucky I can develope a rapid prototyping technique that will allow me to facilitate this goal. Below that are NOS examples of the two oil filters that were fitted to the car when new. On the right is a SG-2 and on the left is a SA-2. The last shot is one of some of the handles and escutcheons that I need to reproduce or locate reproductions. These die cast parts were common to Fisher/GM cars of the late twenties.

Regarding your interior cast parts, I saw a guy at the Chickasha swap meet a couple of weeks ago that had a nice selection for many makes, castings were his only product. I assume they were reproductions but they looked good. I talked to him about a piece for my Pierce but he couldn't help so unfortunately I did not take his card and do not remember his name - perhaps someone else seeing this will have it.

Yes Harry... I am still interested in the name plate. I forgot all about it. How much for two? Just give me the address where to mail the check and I will do that this week. Where can I get a name plate for the generator? Not sure if the starter has one.

For reproduction on the carburetor.. Did you try the place in Australia? (the name escapes me at this time) They have aluminum casts for the U-2 for $1200!!! I actually had a rebuilt U-2 on my car and the car ran Ok. When I put a BB-1 on it made a world of a difference. It started much easier and and idled alot smoother. If your looking for reliability, I don't think you can go wrong with the BB-1

Dan

Good job on restoring your ride sir. I'm sure it will be a real looker when it's done. Good luck sir!

_________________________
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1929Chrysler...Just give me a call, I'll give you my address. I'm in the CCCA and the WPC Club , for phone #; if you don't have these rosters PM me and I'll give you my #. By the way, I am aware of these folks in Austrailia. Their carb would work on my car; however, it is not original and the Carter BB-1 is an excellent carb as I see you know. As to the tags for the generator and starter contact Larry Symons, 14 Coral Rd., Bell Canyon, Calif. 91307. He represents the Southern California Region CCCA and the tags among other things are region projects. thomatt...Thanx for the encouragement...I need it.

Folks.....a quick update. Not a lot of progress as I have been working on the floor boards and I am not a wood worker. I have cut out the toe board and have attempted to make the front floor board. The front floor board is about 30"X16" and is made up of several boards joined together by 4 stringers which are screwed to the bottom of the transverse boards. Upon initial examination I thought these transverse boards were tongue and groove; however, as it turns out they are a type of dovetail tongue and groove. I have never seen this type of construction and it is proving difficult to replicate; as I worked for 4 hours today at a friend of mines' woodworking shop and was unable to successfully reproduce these joints. Why did Fisher not use standard tongue and groove but resort to this sliding dovetail connection?

Further update on my progress....For the last several weeks I have had to apply myself to making a living and personal business; however, I have made some progress on the Chrysler. The running boards have been reproduced by a local quite talented sheet metal guy. To look at the running boards it would seem they would be easy to replicate, as they are a series of straight line breaks in a piece of sheet metal. The fact is these were originally roll formed and using a break to reproduce the ribs formed by roll forming is not possible. Turns out the parts have to be fabricated out of several pieces of steel. The gentleman that made these fabricated them in such a skillfull manner you can't tell they are made of several pieces! I have included some pics for your review. Note the original running board used as a pattern to the left of the reproductions. Concurrent with the restoration of the running boards I need to find a source for the running board molding. I have attached a quick drawing of what I am looking for. These moldings are made of aluminum and have five beads along the top edge. If anyone reading this knows were I can find duplicates please let me know. In another two to three weeks the car heads off for the body shop again where I hope to have the last of the sheet metal work completed. When the car gets back to my shop I will deal with several other small body details and then to the engine and chassis.

Hi Harry
Maybe Scott's Old Auto Rubber in Australia will have this aluminum-pieces. See www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au
He is also offering running board rubbers and shackle insulators for the 1928 Chrysler 72.

That trim looks a lot like what Packard used from 1927-1930, but I'm not sure of the dimensions. They're availble here, so you might want to call and get more information.

PACKARD RUNNING BOARD MOLDINGS. For 1927-30 cars. Replace your bent, dented and weathered running board moldings with faithfully reproduced duplicates. All moldings are polished and bright-dip anodized, ready to cut and install. Supplied in 6-1/2-foot lengths only. Price $38,00 per length. Contact Warren H. Carr to order and for s/h costs. Delaware Valley Region CCCA, c/o Warren H. Carr, 39 Cooper Street, Woodbury, NJ 08096. Phone: (856)845-0037. Fax: (856)384-8778. Email: CresseCarr@juno.com.

Try Restoration Supply Company, www.RestorationStuff.com, they list some ribbed trims in both aluminum and brass.

f-aschwanden, West, TexRiv63....Thanks for your responses. The guys in Austrailia have running board rubber that is similiar to mine but no running board moldings that I can see on their web site. West, I had a real great conversation with Warren and he is going to send me a fax of the cross section of the Packard running board trim. Tex as far as Restoration Supply goes; they have some that looks almost exactly like what I need but it is made of brass. By the way I spoke to a guy out in Missouri who advertized in Hemmings under running board trim and he is sending me a catalogue showing what he has to offer. I spoke with him and he seems quite knowledgable on the subject of running board trim.Thanks again!

Further info on the running board moldings I am seeking.....This morning I went out to the shop and studied the moldings I am seeking closer. The moldings were originally roll formed (not extruded) and the outside molding has a lower lip that wraps under the lower outer edge of the running board. This outside molding measures 1.305" top to bottom and the top edge (with the 5 beads) measures .656" across. The metal is .0475" thick.

Harry, are you referring to L & L Antique Auto Trim in MO? Let me know what they can do for you, I will be needing moldings for my Pierce and so far cannot find a match.

Don....Yes it is L&L Antique Auto Trim. I am to recieve a catalogue in the near future.