Okay, That's definitely a Slip-balancer. It's made differently than the '29, tho.
You can see the friction disks, in close to center, and there are springs between the front and back halves, pushing out the 2 outer halves against the disks and dowel-pins to keep the two halves from turning independently. And the pulley mounting bolts clamp the assembly together.
It appears the rear disk is riding right on the crankshaft flange. This is a much simpler design than used in '29 and probably much less expensive to make.
They probably desided to use 6 bolts instead of 4 because, with this design they had to move the bolts in closer to the center, to clear the inside of the pulley, to give a more even clamping force and with this design those bolts hold everything together.
But what is the large dark area close to the outer edge? Is that a rubber ring? Were there labels on those arrows pointing to various parts?

Rick,

Here is a copy with the arrows labeled.

That's Strange, what they have labeled '146998 Can't find' appears to be the friction-disks and what they call a 'friction ring' appears to be a rubber dampener ring, since there's no friction there. All the friction is at the 'Can't find' parts.
Who ever made this drawing seems to have been as confused by this as We are.

I put the labels on the diagram, as the originals are useless unless you have the parts books. I could not find part #146998 in the parts book. It is mildly difficult to use the book, as nothing is really consecutive and some stuff you would think would be together is not.

I agree that the part looks like some sort of slip disk.

I still don't quite understand the principle behind this gizmo. I know the goal, but not how using a 'torque drag' would help.

Tom

As the engine runs there are many vibrations generated. The outer part of the balancer acts as a counter-balance weight or torque-arm that puts that balance weight in the opposite direction of the induced centrifical shock pulse, since it's allowed to move freely, canceling out some of the vibration.
Of course, I Really think it's 'Just Magic'.

So, now that we've determined that the '30 used a slip-balancer, I'm eager to find out if the '31 used the same type. Probably not, if Tom's (packin31) '31 has bolts at the outer edge of the balancer.
Packard was probably experimenting with many different designs during those years.

Rick,

Here are some pictures of my damper as promised.

Hi Tom,

Glad you posted the distributor, and separate drive shaft pictures. I was beginning to think I had the only distributor with an offset drive slot. The distributor obviously cannot be lifted and rotated. What I did not realize is that the whole distributor assembly including 3 bolt pedestal could be removed allowing the separate drive shaft to be removed, rotated 180 degrees and dropped back into the engine. When I sent my distributor out the be re-bushed and curved, the fellow put the drive back on backwards. I new this, because I never disturbed the crankshaft position. I guess the earlier cars do have an offset distributor drive.

Rick,

Thanks for the explanation, but that still doesn't really help me determine why there should be two disks with friction bearings and limited slip to achieve the dampening. Oh, wait, I didn't read the whole answer. Got it .

Tom

Thanks for the pics Tom (packin31)
Yes, that one is different Also.
So, there's only 2 bolts attaching the pulley onto the balancer and the pulley is keyed to the crankshaft and the large center bolt holds the complete assembly on crankshaft, is that correct?
It appears to be much larger diameter than earlier balancers, also.
Yes, those large countersunk bolts look rather Imposing, I don't think I would have tried to take that one apart either.

Yes, Don't Forget the 'Magic'.

Here's the parts list to give you even more to think about

That shows that the same dampener assembly (same part number) was used in '30, '31, and '32, but we have already determined that the ones used in '30 and '31 are Different.
That may mean that they were all the same basic design with some changes or they could have changed designs in mid year, of '30, and Tom's '30 (733) has the older design?
Even tho the dampener Assemblies had the same part number, the designs definitely Changed, because the internal parts changed numbers thru those years (with at least 2 changes).

Man, this is Gettin' too complicated for me.

Speedster,

When I look at the parts list, it seems to me that the design changed between each series. All have the 'vibration damper assembly' but I think that is a dummy code for the entire thing assembled. The components that went into each assembly clearly changed, with the most apparently dramatic change occurring from the 7th to 8th series; the 7th series columns contain the greatest number of unique parts among all three.

But, this brings back the problem of the timing mark I put on my dampener. I have now run the engine for several hours, and my timing mark is still perfect (I haven't futzed with the timing, and it still rides below my little 'pointer'). So, does that mean my dampener needs disassembly and repair?

Cheers,

Tom

If it's running Good, I wouldn't Worry about it, and be Happy you have a working timing Mark. Now if you were going to make some Cross-country Trips in it, you should probably check into it more, because I've heard that if the balancer is not working properly, it can shorten the life of the main-bearings, etc. High RPMs is when it's really needed.
I ran one of my '29 engines Without a balancer on it, for a little while and never got it over 2000.rpm, (to test the engine before I put it in the car and the balancer was hiting my test stand), and I could Not really tell any difference after I got it in the car with the balancer on it.
You find out how Long those engines Really are, when trying to fit one on a test-stand made for V8 engines.

Speedster,

As always, thanks for the info.

Tom

Did some talking to Packard guys here in Oregon. Seems like their place of choice for rebuilding these dampers is Damper Dudes They are located in California and offer a 2 day turn around service.

Only in California would there be a "damper dudes"

tbrid,

Good info. Hate the name, but good info .

Tom

I'm looking at the dampener and belt pully assembly. From the drawings supplied, it looks like the screw that holds the pulley on is simple unscrewed to start the disassembly process. However this screw appears to be a rod with a pin thru the end to mate with a hand crank rod. Is there a special or homemade tool that you have used to unscrew this screw?

Yes, I cut slots in a wrench-Socket. I found a long 1/2"drive socket (from an air-wrench set) that fit over the large bolt, then drilled a hole thru both sides of it, about 1/2" from outer edge of socket. The drill bit needs to be a little larger than the pin in bolt. Then used a hacksaw to cut down to the holes, forming the needed slots. The width of the slots should be a little less than the diameter of the drilled holes, so the socket will slightly lock around the pin, to keep it from sliping out easy.
Also need a long brakeover-bar for the socket and a piece of hard wood or something similar to lock into teeth of flywheel (thru the starter mounting hole, if the engine pan is still on) to keep the crankshaft from turning, when loosening the bolt. The bolt has normal threads (left to loosen).

Rick, Ken

I just took a deep 7/8" (1/2 drive) socket and used my angle grinder to cut .25" slots in the socket. I made the slots a little over 3/4 of an inch deep. I started with the hacksaw thing and lost patience! Took about 2 minutes, but man you generate a lot of sparks!

I can get a shot of my tool if you need it.

Ah, geez, I mean a shot of my socket. Or, well, you get the idea.

Tom

Hey, my trusty Hacksaw is about the only way I get good Excersize anymore.

Thanks for the advice from both of you. I will probably give my local Packard mechanic a call to see what he has before I destroy a socket...though I am given it new life as a different tool.

Tom...it's scary that you have the same warped sense of humor that I have.