I want to detail the motor in my 1957 Buick estate wagon...and am thinking it would be easier to do the work OUT of the car. How hard is it to pull the motor and tranny in one piece out of these cars? I am needing to replace the water pump, degrease and repaint the motor, replace a few seals, and then re-install. Am I asking for a whole lot of extra work or is it worth my time?

OH, and I am adding a McCulloch Supercharging system to the car as well...how fun is that?!!

Nothing is impossible...but it's probably easier to do as separate pieces. The engine and transmission together may overtax some lift equipment.

If it is like my 56, after the hood is off and radiator is out, the top of the radiator support can be unbolted, then the unit may come out between the fenders and what's left of the radiator support. But that only gives you the width of the raditor to work with side to side.

Theoretically you should be able to pull the transmission off the driveshaft after removing the 4 bolts holding the torque tube to the transmission. I would be real careful putting it back together though.

Post some pictures of this in process, and Good Luck.

JD

If you don't need the tranny out it's a lot easier to leave it in. I make up an angle iron support and bolt it to the frame side rails to hold up the tranny.....Bob

I'm interested in hearing more on this too as I hope to finally get around to pulling the engine and possibly tranny out of my 54 (Buttercup). The main difference here is that I have the entire front clip off. Would that rule still apply Bob. If I wanted to pull the tranny too, I assume it would be easier to pull the motor and tranny at the same time.

That is a great idea. Gosh knows why I did not think of that! I think I was considering the desire to check the seal at the rear of the trans to the torque tube. But that would be a great easy solution to the problem.

Lamar
It is definitely easier to pull both the engine and tranny with the front clip off if the tranny needs to be pulled. It can be done with the front clip in place, but a little more tedious...it helps if you have way to change the tilt of the engine during R&R.
Willie

yes ..it is much easier all around if you use a leveler when you remove.. a must with clip on, very helpful with no clip.

I just bought a new lift with leveler from Northern Tool. Where at on the engine do you bolt the chains of the leveler. I plan on removing the intake manifold, rocker covers and vally pan then cleaning and detailing the engine, tranny and firewall before reinstalling. Is there a way to hook it that will leave these parts accesible for removal and still leave the engine & tranny hanging for detailing.

I alway R&R with the intake manifold off and use the 4 end holes in the head that held the intake manifold to attach chains. Paint the engine and intake separately, assemble and paint the bolt heads with a small brush.
Willie

If by front clip you mean fenders and grill,Lamar it's pretty much a no brainer to pull both. In that case I use two rear head bolts to attach the chain. That's about the balance point with trans attached. As the engine comes up you must keep moving the car aft or crane forward for clearance. Moving the car is smoother. When pulling just the engine, all I remove from the engine itself is the carb, generater, and fan. Rather than chain I use a nylon sling under the intake manifold. That's a just rite balance point. But there's lots of ways to skin this cat. I've pulled the engine out of completed show cars and put them back without scratching anything with only my wife for help on the crane.
To support the front of the tranny I make up an angle iron cross member with 1/4 X 2 X about 6 flat steel pieces welded on the ends. Just push a 3/8 bolt through a hole in the flat steel and a convient hole in the frame or if necessary drill a hole. With that set up the car is mobile and can be moved, jacked, etc. When it's time to reinstall the engine the tranny is right where you left it.
Helpful hint.....I put two or three 1/4" plywood shims between the support and tranny before removing engine. That way when you are reinstalling if you need to drop the tranny just a bit to get everything lined up it's easy to just pry up the tranny and remove a shim or two.....Bob

You should find out the weight of the engine & trany,then compair that to the lifting weight of the hoist, the same for the angle changer. I have heard that the theads strip out espcialy the ones made in china.The other thing is if you pull both its a bear to get the drive shaft back in and not damage the seal.

well, we are going to pull the motor this weekend. I will be leaving the trans in the car. This way I can detail the firewall, engine and clean the front crossmember and think about installing the power steering I have sitting on the floor. Thanks for your help guys!!!

The biggest thing is to be very careful and safe. Use GOOD jack stands on solid footing and heavy chains or slings. Let us know how you did........Bob

Thanks guys for the tips.
Good luck 57Wagon and like Bob said, be careful.I still have problems gripping anything with my left hand 6 months after my thumb got caught between a 54 Roadmaster rear axle and jack stand.

Pictures please...

Now is the time to do the power steering. I have done it with the engine and fenders in place. What a job that was.

Dan

'63 Lesabre
'57 Super
'57 Roadmaster

I will take that under advisement (power steering). By the way - how does one go about rebuilding a water pump? Mine is nearly frozen. It looks like it could be pressed apart once the pulley mount is off of it. Anybody do this before?

The Motor and trans should be out this weekend. Yay.

UPDATE: Motor and tranny are out of the car. That was a great process, and the experience of working with my dad for an entire day made it even better. Nothing broke, no bolts stripped or snapped, and we did not damage anything. Amazing for our first try! It went pretty smoothly asside from the tranny pouring it's blood on the floor and down the arm. We found the original oil filter housing label in place. It looks like it may still have the original valve cover gaskets in place - what was left of them. I will post photos of it later. I am still amazed at how easily the bolts all came out. Of course 50 years of motor oil out of those valve covers kept all the items pretty well oiled up under there.

Question: Are there different headers/exhaust manifolds for the Supers versus the Roadmasters with the duals? If yes, do I only need to replace the driver's side or both to put dual exhausts on my car?

Drivers side only needs to be a dualie manifold........Bob

Found one at Freeman's today. It should be on the way soon. Thanks for the update. Where are you in Eastern PA? I used to live in West Chester and I really miss it!

I'm a bit Northwest of Allentown. Big diffence between West Chester and Iowa I would imagine. Glad your project is working out, good luck with it........Bob

UPDATE: The motor is at the motor shop - going for blueprinting and balancing of the motor. My engine builder actually has a guy that re-grinds cams for nailheads to give us the same torque curve and 50's sound, yet has the ability to run better on unleaded fuel. Cleaned the engine compartment with the motor out and we found the weld and underside of everything to be rust free. Even the brake lines (original 1957 equipment) are shiny as new! The bolts and everything on the car are like new. There is a serious plus side to a 50 year leak at the valve covers! Even the exhaust headers came off with a small 9/16 on a ratchet...no impact needed! Will get to see the motor apart this week.

Question: What color is the correct color for the engine for 1957? The bright turquois or the darker green?

CARS has the correct color of green in a spray can, and I believe that Bill Hirsch has an enamel, high temp, high gloss #R-5639 in quart cans that is correct. If you have trouble want to see a color, I can provide you a couple of photos. I think that I have one of an extremely low milage car that is all original and should help you in detailing.

Dan
'57 76C
'57 56R
'63 4467

The 57 frame has a very serious weakness in it's frame/front suspension that you have the opportunity to address now that engine is out. The upper control arms are bolted to a sort of double ess shaped steel stamping that is welded to the frame. The welds are little more than tack welds and are inadequate for the loads placed on them during braking and are VERY prone to cracks and failure.
I would advise you to clean/wire brush the stamping to frame welds and inspect them. I would also take this opportunity to do a better stronger weld.
On my 57 both mount welds were cracked and one had already been crudely rewelded. I've talked to at least 2 57 owners who had a mount fail and the wheel fold under the car.........Bob

If I recall correctly, seeing as my den got a bit reorganized...ah, found the BCA Judging manual...it should be Buick Green (aka Apple Green). The turquoise was on the straight 8s I believe.

Good to hear...I went through the same adventure with the Wildcat a few years ago...it was thoroughly enjoyable, albeit expensive.