Mine was also nicely painted. However I was convinced by others that I might as well have it refurbished now rather than face problems done the road when it be much more difficult to redo. I have a lot of mechanical receipts for the car, but nothing indicating this had been refurbished.

Packin, it's only those 6 screws to take it apart to check condition. Better safe than sorry. Remember Murphy's Law? Cost nothing to check it now but a lot of time and effort to replace it later.

32,

My Murhpys is that something always breaks when I pull things apart

Ok one more thing to put on my to do list then.

Thta's why my went out today untouched by my clumsy hands

Nothing in it to break. Take out the 6 screws and pry the thing apart. There are small springs inside but they are not under much pressure. With a hammer knock out the center from the backside. Surrounding the center and vulcanized to it is a nubbed rubber disc maybe 6" across. If this disc is torn from the center it needs to be revulcanized. Reassembly is obvious. Be sure that there are reference marks stamped into both the 2 heavy discs as well as the center so the timing marks are where they need to be when you reassemble it. You will likely need a torque driver to remove the screws. I'll try to post a pic if I can remember how. Inside there is also a device consisting of two friction discs with a ring of clutch lining-like material sandwiched in between. It is this ring that finds it's own balance point against the pressure of the springs and the "twist " of the rubber disc thereby "dampening" engine vibration. Sounds more complicated than it actually is.

Sent the dampener out Monday and Damper Dudes called today as it is finished. Total cost including shipping back is $215. The guy I spoke with said mine did need rebuilding.

Just make sure they actually rebuilt it, not just sent it back. But it may be difficult to really tell what they did to it? Sorry, but I'm just Not trusting when it comes things like that, that I have no control over. If you know what I mean? (that happened several times when I was Young and Trusting)
I'm the same way with engine work, If I can't watch them do it, I take it somewhere else, where I can watch.
Even the most Honest and Experienced people can Screw-up some time.

I know what you mean however this company was highly recommended by the local Packard guys. Of course that doesn't always help as I have experienced before, but at least you have some confindence.

OK now that I have it back, what's the easist way to install it on the crankshaft?

I hit a few times with a 20 lb hammer but it wouldn't go on...only kidding about the 20 lb hammer

It has been awhile since we talked dampers! I am finally getting around to posting photos of my damper taken apart. I am assuming that the inner, keyed part, on the rear half, is supposed to turn independently of the larger outer part, correct? Because it certainly doesn't on this damper.

Also, the damper halves are not bolted together, but are held together by the front mounted pulley that through bolts to the rear half of the damper.

Cheers,

Tom

Tom,

I think from the discussions that perhaps there was a change in dampners where the design changes from using a friction material and the two halfs would slide against each other, to the spring and rubber core one you have. According the the "Dampner Dudes" who rebuilt mine, it was like yours.

Yes, we concluded that Mid '30 is when one major design change happened.

Yes, I remember that. I thought perhaps a photo would be nice for any future person perusing the discussion. Also, are you telling me that the damper will not rotate independent of the crankshaft? I thought the previous conclusion was that it would (see Rick's posts above).

Thanks,

Tom

The center section with the keyway is vulcanized to the disc surrounding it. No, the dampner will not rotate independently of the crankshaft. Often times the original vulcanizing fails. This is what rebuilders do, revulcanize the center to its disc and replace springs etc. If done properly the timing marks are still in the same place.

Correct, it's only the earlier type (before '30) that will rotate.
The type shown in the '30 manual, is the rotating type. They must have printed the manuals before the vulcanized type were introduced. It's unclear how many '30 model engines were built using the earlier type dampener, probably not many.