I have a 425 CI engine connected to a Dynaflow. It came out of a 1963 Buick. The engine is stuck. I plan on investigating the cause by placing the engine on an engine stand. Who knows, I might want it for my 64 Wildcat. But first I have to remove the Dynaflow. The shop manual says that I must remove the flywheel cover at the bottom of the engine (which I've done) and take out the three bolts connecting the torque converter to the flywheel. But you can only get to one bolt at a time because the others are at on top of the flywheel, hidden by the transmission housing. The shop manual says you must rotate the engine until the bolts are at the bottom where you can get to them. But the engine is stuck and I can't rotate the engine, therefore I can't get the Dynaflow off. Any suggestions?

Your best bet is to take all the spark plugs out and pour some penetrating oil ( not just any old oil, some say diesel works ?? ) into each cylinder and wait for it to work it's magic. How long it will take ?????
Depends on how bad it's stuck and for how long , rust on cylinder wall etc. I'd say at least a week or two then get a socket with a long bar and try and work the crankshaft back and forth. The crankshaft has to be moved to get the Dynaflow off -- it's the only way or you'll have to destroy the engine block to get it off.
Be patient and most times you will succeed.

Not sure this is possible, but if the oil soak does not work, I'd consider rolling the engine trans combo on its side so both pieces are supported, then remove the timing chain and oil pan and disconnect the crank from everything. Pull the crank from the engine with the trans attached. You should be able to get to the torque converter bolts then.

The most important thing is to keep all crank caps and bolts marked for reassembly in their original location and orientation.

If the engine is out of the car and you unbolt the trany would it separate from the convertor leaving the converter on the crank ?????Would be a little messy, drain the trany as much as you can. Just a thought.

As I was reading the post, I was thinking about what JohnD mentioned, but then 51dyno's comments are highly accurate--the converter is on a splined shaft that generally stays where it is by the fact it's between two bolted-together items (engine and transmission case, but bolted to the flywheel for obvious reasons).

The question might be, how the engine is on an engine stand with the transmission attached? Having the engine/trans assembly suspended on an engine hoist, even if steadied just above floor level, might be more appropriate . . . of have it in some sort of wooden crate fixture with the transmission supported by a transmission jack. This way, the weight of the assemblies would be less of an issue than just getting them apart.

Please keep us posted.

Enjoy!
NTX5467

Roy
I don't know if the 63 dynaflow torque converter can be removed from the transmission like modern transmissions. The earlier dynaflows had a converter that had to be separated...remove the front cover, then unbolt from the input shaft. If yours has a ring of bolts around the front of the converter, it will need to be disassembled. Which means the engine will need to be disassembled first.
Start by removing the rocker assemblies...if the valves and/or the rockers are frozen the engine will not turn. Use a pry tool between the starter ring gear and the block to try to move the crank. A 2' bar on the ring will give more leverage than a 10' tool on the front crank bolt. If no joy continue disassembly of the engine to find the reason why it is stuck: heads, pan...some are so bad that you have to cut the rods to lift the crank out and then detach from the converter.
Willie

Let's hope soaking the cylinders works. I started that on Sunday. The engine with attached Dynaflow is on the floor, sitting upright in a spare tire.

Thanks to all of you for the advice. I'll let you know how the nightmare ends.

Old tank really has a good point here. Wish I had thought of it.