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#466552 - 11/24/07 10:15 AM !922 engine #'s
jbbuick22 Offline
Member

Registered: 12/27/00
Posts: 132
Loc: Sherborn MA USA
A question for Dave Corbin, I have a 1922-6-55, frame #856901
I think I have the orig. engine #880327,but that engine is very rough. Would # 834943 (now rest.) from a 22-47 close??? Also have #853514 22-50 in good orig .cond.

JB
in MA

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#466639 - 11/24/07 05:31 PM Re: !922 engine #'s [Re: jbbuick22]
DaveCorbin Offline
Member

Registered: 02/19/06
Posts: 687
Loc: Texas
Dera JB:
You are correct that 856901 was issued to a 1922 Model 55. Buick factory records would indicate that the engine # 880327 is most probably the original engine. 834843 is probably a 1922 model 48 engine, which is the same bore & stroke as a 55. According to the factory information, 853514 should be a 4 cylinder engine, but it's right at the break point to a block of 6 cylinder engines, so if it measures correctly, I would think it's ok too.
I would think you should use the highest engine number you can. Buick wasn't real great about inventory rotation then, so quirks happened.
Regards, Dave Corbin

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#466912 - 11/25/07 01:51 PM Re: !922 engine #'s [Re: DaveCorbin]
jbbuick22 Offline
Member

Registered: 12/27/00
Posts: 132
Loc: Sherborn MA USA
Thanks Dave,
The only problem in using 880327 is that the left engine arm(alum mount) has been broken and repaired some time in the distant past, I did not know alum could be welded that long ago.
John Beatty





22-6-55 Sport Touring

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#467160 - 11/26/07 03:06 PM Re: !922 engine #'s [Re: jbbuick22]
DaveCorbin Offline
Member

Registered: 02/19/06
Posts: 687
Loc: Texas
Dear JB:
Our friends at Buick learned how to cast aluminum real early on, certainly by 1908. They had a metals lab by then, courtesy of chief engineer Walter L. Marr. I would think they learned to weld aluminum at Buick by 1910, as I've seen a patch job that was almost certainly factory done on a 1910 Buick.
Depending on the quality of the weld, it shouldn't be a problem. When you dis-assemble the engine, have the crankcase scanned with ultrasonic and you'll be sure. Some hand grinding and a little sandblasting, and the repair will be undetectable.
Regards, Dave Corbin

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