Hello all,

I've been researching this subject, but want to make certain that I've exhausted all options before making a decision. Things important to me -- I'd like to be able to roll it outside (and some have optional pneumatic tire kits for this). Also, I like the option to be able to raise and lower it with hydraulic cylinders.

The only option I cannot find (and I am told by a friend that he saw such a rotisserie being sold at Carlisle) is one like my double-ended engine stand that has a worm drive gearbox on one end so you can rotate to any angle easily and leave it, like this:







Does anyone know of a rotisserie so fitted? Also, other shopping suggestions appreciated.

Are you looking for an engine rotisserie or one for a car? Let me know- I can find out what brand etc I have for my car one if thats where you are going....

I made my own Rotisseries...

But I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you are well versed in welding.

They are ALOT cheaper if you make your own however. I made my body rotisserie for about $200 in materials and a Saturday Afternoon........
I have a smaller one I use for Frames. It's got so much overspray on it from painting various customer's frames I forgot what color it was originally!

Walter, did you make or buy that engine stand? I'm looking for something that will hold a Buick straight 8.

Hemmings Classic Car this month features a nice rotisserie that Matt Harwood designed and built. I'm going to do likewise using his design as a basis........Bob

I don't happen to have that publication. Is there a way to post or email the plans / article?

Thanks

Joe Ferrero
ritthesis@yahoo.com

(3)1915 Oldsmobiles
1947 Olds Model 76
1948 Olds Dynamic 66

My apologies to everyone. I started this thread and forgot about it, and also neglected to select the option for email updates.



Hi Lenny - one for a car. I just cited my engine stand because I would be interested in finding one with the gearbox on it. I should have been more clear. But yes, I'm curious what brand yours is and what you think of its pros/cons.





I considered making my own, I used to do fabricating/machining for a living, so that part is not a problem. But, I do tend to be a little slow, and when my lost shop labor is taken into consideration, it is less expensive for me to just buy something that is ready to go.




Gary - I bought the engine stand. It is manufactured by Norco and was the only double-ended engine stand I could find after an exhaustive search. In fact, I bought it specifically to do the '32 Buick Series 50 engine you see in that picture. I found these people to be very helpful:

http://www.hyjacks.com/

Best price on both inventory and shipping. You will have to call them as it is special order - not on their website. It is stand No. 78125 with optional end 78200, see here:

http://www.norcoind.com/norco/category_type_EngineStands.shtml

Shipping and all, I paid $950 when I bought it about 18 months ago. Worth every penny. Very safe and stable. Note: you have to use a crane with a leg configuration like 78106A, see here:

http://www.norcoind.com/norco/category_type_Cranes.shtml

.... as a typical tapered leg engine crane will not fit around the stand. My old crane was spent, so I bought that too. Much larger and more well built than your common engine crane. No springy'ness, folds, and lots of user-friendly details in it's function. Fully extended, it still rates at 1,250 lbs. Norco makes a good product. I've since mounted a '17 Continental 7N, a '35 Cadillac V-8, and now have another '32 Buick 50 to do. Only modification I made was to lengthen the cross bar of the stand about 14 inches. The Buick fits if you drill another hole about three inches out, but the Continental and Cadillac with aluminum crankcases and integral flywheel housings were a tad too long for it.




I'll keep an eye out for that, always interested in more ideas.

Try this site. I think his rotisarie looks pretty good.
www.uscartool.com

Sorry Joe, I don't have a scanner or know of a link. A good news stand should carry the issue. Matt pops his head up here now and then. I have the wheels on hand and it looks like about $200 of steel will cover it...........Bob

For what it's worth, I've been following a custom car builder featured in Auto Restorer Magazine and he seems to think this is a good one. eBay price is $1,095. It's a long link and I'm not sure how to post it otherwise. So, do a Google on "Auto Twirler". Eastwood should be the first result. You can see it there.

I thought about building Matt's too, but you retired guys have a lot more time.

Gary

Ooops.

http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/index.html

For anyone interested, here's the link to Matt's rotisserie. There's plans that can be downloaded and a bunch of pictures.

http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/index.html

Gary

OK, there is something weird going on with the forum tonight. So, forgive my dual entries. But, I did get you the link!

Gary

Hi Folks,

My hubby is currently constructing a rotisserie. If we lived in the US we would buy one from http://www.whirlyjig.com/ . They make very nice once, but we aren't so the only option for us was to build one our self.

What people often forget is the support for the body! If you don't have a connection between front and aft "engine stand" there will be a downward force that will put a stress on the body and possibly bend it. While you can get away with one connection two is the better one. Having two connections will eliminate twisting forces, especially if you intend to roll the rotisserie around in your garage or hook it up to your truck.

Second thing is the level or rotation. Take a full size car the level where it rotate the body needs to be at least 4' over the ground otherwise you will not be able to do a full rotation. Since the balance point of a body is somewhere in the middle of the firewall it means that you need to lift the body pretty high. You can do that two ways, either you lift the body with traditional jacks or a car lift, or you have ram jacks on the "engine stands" so that you can lower the rotisserie and then jack it up when you turn the body on the side. If you go for the latter make sure the ram jack is on the inside (body side) of the "engine stand" otherwise the lifting force will be wrong.

Next thing to think about is how the balancing of the body is done. If it's done in steps, like holes 1" apart to look it in it will probably not be too good. You will most likely endup with uneven balance and the car can flip when you rotate it not a fun thing and dangerous too. If you have a "screw" like on a lathe you can adjust the balance perfectly and then lock it. Very few rotisseries out there are constructed with all those features whirlyjig is and the one my hubby is making is too.

Cheers Dyna


PS: We made a body lift to be able to roll out the frame, the instructions are here http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=18302
note it's not cad drawings but good enough I hope.

Ah yes we will make drawings later on for the rotisserie too.

I wanted to update this thread to share my experience in buying a rotisserie. I've had it for a couple of months now and feel confident in saying that I decided on the right manufacturer. It was a difficult thing to research as I had to do everything over the internet, I couldn't find any to look at in person. These manufacturers are very competitive and it is difficult to sort-out the truth as there aren't any established standards. I purchased a 2,000 lb. unit from Accessible Systems. I liked they way they calculated their safety factor and the logical reasoning behind the answers they gave to my questions about its design.

Everybody says "make one" (which we are capable of doing here), including a fabricator friend of mine. My argument is that it wasn't worth my shop time to reinvent the wheel. He took dimensions off of mine soon after I got it and came by recently to tell me it wasn't worth it. I think I paid $1,850 for my unit - he said the raw materials alone calculated to a little over $800 and that now he was just going to buy one outright, as well.

They make a unit in this same configuration rated for 3,000 lbs. I asked them if this 2,000 lb. unit were capable of handling the bare unibody shell from a '60 Lincoln (should I every want to redo one of my own cars to that degree) and they said it would be no problem, so that was good enough for me.

Below are before, during, and after pictures from the project, and then the body for which it was purchased mounted on the rotisserie. My need for a gearbox was unfounded. It can be so finitely balanced that I can push the body to any position desired, let go, and walk around to lock the head without worry of it moving.

Hi,
I’ve been a restorer professionally for over 35 years now and have used every piece of equipment designed for, or method to remove, and build the body. The people I’ve worked with over the years would agree; most are hard to use, require a lot of space, and don’t quite do every thing you need it to. Wouldn’t it be nice if someone had a system (one machine) that was made of the finest US structural steel, made it here, sold it internationally, it removed the body, auto adjusted to any vehicle, held it at the factory jig points, was a 8 point plus dedicated building jig, quick and easy to set up and use, fit on a 2’x 3’x 3’ cart when not in use, last a lifetime, and you can lease to your friends in the club when your through with it, Oh and introduced at SEMA 07. SEE IT at [url=http://www.frameoff.com] or call me toll free and I’ll answer any Questions 866-350-0045.
This is only the beginning.
Bart

wow- sorry guys I just got a notice NOW that people are answering the thread too. Must be a weird delay or something...

My rotisserie is made by accessible systems. Ireally like it too.

www.accessiblesystems.com

877-283-9755

if you call there feel free to ask for Joel and mention my name - they are in N Carolina and have lots of great stuff- I purchase from them all the time.