Done. If you're in the area I'd love to show it off. That's an open invitation.

I'm looking for appropriate tail lights.

Great. Next trip we take I'll check where you are located and see if we will be nearby.

How about "I'll" on one window and "Sue" on the other? That should get their attention.

The "Stop" windows keep a clean back, wonder if they would be legal.

Was thinking instead of blacking out the windows, you should insert pictures that look like you are looking into a stock old style camper interior.

That's very funny. I'll see if my Photoshop guru can do that to see what it looks like.

Or have a couple mean little kids looking out the back and sticking their tongues out at the drivers behind him. (My late sister-in-law used to do that when she rode in her dad's car. She said she didn't have that red hair for nothing.)

3-12-2006

The garage area will be lined with Fiberglass Reinforced Panels. The panels are commonly found in commercial kitchens and freezers. It is brilliant white and has a pebbly finish but non abrasive. The standard moldings are white plastic but I'm leaning towards stainless or aluminum.

The existing wall studs were covered in tar sprayed on the rough interior as a means to deaden both the noise and movement of the aluminum skin. No adhesive would stick to the tar nor would the width of the existing studs be sufficient to glue on the FRP.

I screwed the lumber to the skinny studs to create a much stiffer shell and to create more surface area to apply adhesive. Since the wall stud layout does not match a standard 48" spacing layout I've had to add interim studs to allow for proper attachment of the dividing strips.

The wall and ceiling cavities will be filled with foam for structural rigidity and temperature control.

Barry,
"BACK OFF!" might be the best lighted message you could put in the back windows. Just turn it on when somebody follows too close. Or, just paint some eyes with big eye lashes looking down to one side and paint a message saying "please watch the road".
Mark Shaw

Barry you do nice work,

I'm trying to figure out if your a retireed UAW with farbication skills.

Below are a few conversions which show good fabrication and finsihing skills, but the design failed in excution.

Old Cadillac commerical chassis were always used for a RV add on, but I don't know how good it was going down the highway.

What are your thoughs on the three examples below?

That Buick wagon tow car is one classy ride! The Airstream ain't to shabby either!

Not UAW, no union affiliation whatsoever. I'm an electrician by trade. I own a lighting maintenance company (bucket trucks, man lifts...) and I've always service my own equipment. As a youngster I worked in all the trades and cars were a hobby.

I love the '38 Buick. The Caddy is incongruous with the style of the camper and the AS and Buick are a great combo.

I saw that 1938 Buick at the Buick National and it is one sweet setup.

really, you like the '38 buick? I think it's ugly.

I think the guy did a nice construction job, but it's still ugly.

I wish I had some other photo that are not in shadow, and I never looked inside, but the front cowling and cab over is ugly.

I don't know what the back looks like.

I really think your car trailer will be converted back to a full camper someday, by the next owner. You did all the heavy lifting, and I think the Vintage trailer people will come looking for you.

I think the '57 buick guy had a wire wheel failer pulling the A/S from Washington state for the Buick 100th year.

Tommy, why don't you tell me what you really think.

I'm not worried about it's next owner. I tend to keep things forever. I've already turned down several major offers to buy it or build a copy.

Not interested.

Dear Tommy,You think the 38 Buick is ugly.I AGREE,Guy undertook a big job,don't understand how he figured he could take the front of an art-deco classic and graft it to a SHOEBOX and get anything other than FRANKENSTEIN.In looking at both the Buick and the Caddy,IMHO,the PROBLEM with the Buick is the transition from the windshield to the trailer body.The Caddy guy eliminated this problem by starting behind the doors.OBVIOUSLY we don't know all the ISSUES in either case.diz

I was under the impression that the 1938 Buick was a restoration, not a recent fabrication. Am I wrong??
No... it's not the most beautiful "marriage," but it was nice work and the inside was absolutely gorgeous!

Diz, Wouldn't that be a "Frankencamper"?

3-18-2006

Created a curved finish molding for the door opening that will finish the edge of the FRP that will line the interior.



The door seal will sit on top of this molding. The material slot is a little wavy but once filled with the 1/8" panel it will straighten out.



Ready for insulation.

Dear Barry,Is that finish molding you made aluminum?It will always be a little wavy,you bent it,where do you think the extra material is going to go?Anymore thought on a tow vehicle?YOU know you just can't tow this masterpiece with any old work truck.diz

No Diz, the molding is plastic. It will receive the Fiberglass Reinforced Panel that will line the walls of the trailer.

Still looking for the right tow vehicle. This one looks promising.

International MXT

Dear Barry,It can be your new COMPANY truck and its got enough chrome,stainless and aluminum to go with the trailer.diz

If this molding was exposed on the outside I'd agree with you. It will be covered on top by the door gasket. I think it would look funny with aluminum trim at the back and plastic trim everywhere else.

I did contact a trim specialist. An aluminum outside corner would be near impossible to bend like this. He said he could bend a "J channel" and weld a cover over it.

Dear Barry,Any chance you have given any thought to a rear bumper?Is it even possible with the clamshell door set-up?You have back-up systems in place for almost everthing,what about some protection for the most thought out part of the whole project?diz

I have air cylinders on order that will extend a bumper 22.5" or 6" past the rear of the trailer. I've heard it is difficult to get two air cylinders to work in tandem so I may just use them as extention guides rather than power them with air. The cylinders will be attached to the frame rails, which puts them 48" apart. If I can get the bumper rigid enough they should work in tandem.

Use a single cylinder in the center to power it in/out and 2 tracked slides on either end to giude it. Another idea, may to fab some sort of scissor type mechanisim to move it. Don't forget about some sort of automatic positive lock to resist movement in case of a bump by somebody from behind.

I have 150 lbs of air pressure available. I was hoping to leave the cylinders pressurized to act as a shock absorber. It might fend off minor damage.

I have heard horror stories about getting two air cylinders to work together.