Ive got a 76 Delta 88, 350 4barrel. Just recently purchased and I am driving. At first one pump and it would start and stay at high idle(to high). However that slowly became a very short high idle then it would drop off to idle. Without kicking it down. This was still not a problem. But may have been the begining.<P>One day I drive it to work shut it off come back 10 hours later, give it one pump turn key ,it starts briefly goes to high idle then stalls and wont restart. Disconnect gas line and have good pump and gas. Replace carburetor fuel filter and away we go.Fine for another week then it does it again. Check fuel at carb again all fine. Replace filter and put inline back by wheel well. Cut open the removed fuel filter and there is nothing wrong with it and the car wont start. Put a cap full of gas in carb and it starts and runs untill gas is gone.<P>What could it be?<P>Please remember it ran fine except this cold start problem. Also is appears the accelerator pump is not pumping now but there was no problem with hesitation when it was running.

Two things come to mind- choke adjustment or a float stuck closed. I'm leaning toward the float since you say it has fuel up to the filter and will run if the carb is primed. Try rapping the top of the carb with a plastic screwdriver handle. If that doesn't do the trick- rebuild time. You did say the fuel pump is good?<P>Also- is reformulated gas being used in your area? That nastyass mess will dissolve rubber fuel hoses from the inside and the goo will get into floats, jets etc, though it can apparently get thru the filter.<P>We had RFG here one winter and although it didn't cost me any fuel hoses, it dropped mileage on a 307 OD wagon from 24 mpg highway to 16. Car started hard and ran poorly that whole winter. Once it got out of the pipeline, back to 24 mpg and decent running again.

OK the tapping on the carb. worked. What would make the float stick? Would it be at the needle valve or the float pin? I'm hoping to remedy the problem without disassembling the carb., though I realize that is not likely.

I've had a couple of carbs apart that had had RFG or high alcohol content gasoline thru them, and they're not pretty. The stuff leaves whitish crusty deposits all over the carb internals. This stuff could be the cause of the sticking float.<P>Or it could be just from age and varnish deposits. Limited, I think you're going to have to go thru that carb as the problem isn't likely to go away on its own. I can understand not wanting to mess with it though. Seems like they never run as well as when Rochester built them, unless you can find an ace QuadraJet man.<P>I'm going thru much the same scenario with a 1964 Starfire 4GC carb. The car will simply not run any longer than it takes to burn the fuel out of the bowl. This one has had new rubber lines and a new fuel pump and still does its hateful thing. I've messed with this carb the whole twenty years I've owned the car, and it's still no good. It did better with a Rochester kit than any other time, but after seeing some of the weird stuff that it came that way, I believe it was bad from the git-go. I guess I'll have to open it up again too if I expect to get any pleasure out of this car this year. or get a rebuilt which will likely be no better than what I have. Most early 60s Olds people I know who have 4GC have the same complaints I have.

Seems like the pressure from the fuel pump would push that needle valve up once the bowl level dropped a little. Wonder what pressure that pump creates. I've got the 1975 Olds Chassis service manual as well as Fisher Body 1975. I started reading the carb rebuild section last night but did the tapping thing this morning and am now on to something else.<P> Exhaust on 89 New Yorker and 88 Dakota plus overall check because inspection is due on both. <P>If you ever need anything looked up in either of those manuals let me know. As far as my 88's are concerned I see no difference between the 75 & 76.Maybe a few trim items.<P>Thanks for the help , Steve

Some times on Rochester type floats and needles, the little indentaion that wears into the tab on the float that the needle rides against causes the needle to wedge in the seat barrel when the float is in the raised position not allowing it to drop. If tapping on the bowel help, a new float might do the trick if the is wear in the float tab.<BR>Usually people just look for "sinking" floats<BR>and leaking seats. I hope this helps.<P>Gene<P>After rebuilding two mid 80's Electronic Q-jets this year, I really appreciate fuel injection! [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0[/img]

Thanks alot Gene, I just ordered a kit that comes with everything but the float. [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0[/img] So the float valve and seat may not do the trick? [img]images/icons/frown.gif" border="0[/img]

I dont understand why floats are never included in rebuild kits? Sometimes problems with paper floats are hard to find.<BR>I always like to look over the new floats I get to see if there are any nicks or gouges on any of the surfaces before I leave the store! As far as the kit goes, you probaly need the top gasket anyway and a new needle, seat and pump couldn't hurt.

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Sorry, typo. <A HREF="http://www.pennswoods.net/~theburtnetts/classiccarburetors" TARGET=_blank>www.pennswoods.net/~theburtnetts/classiccarburetors</A>

sound like there is a lot of dirt in the carb<BR>best thing to do is take it to your local garage and have them soak it and just for the fun of it weight the floats if the old one is heavier file it!because its gas logged!