Location of VIN # on 1937 Chevy Pickup

[CDRoberts]

I've been unable to get a 1937 Chevy Pickup I bought in PA thru DE inspection because I can't find the VIN # and the DVM said the number I have is to long. They also say I have an "O" in the VIN number and it should be an "A, B, or C". Any idea's???

Doug

[CarlLaFong]

This subject has been gone over a bunch of times. The people at your DMV are idiots. The VIN is a modern development. 1937 vehicles didn't have a VIN. They had serial numbers that were assigned by the factory. Each factory had their own system of numbering. The VIN used today, regardless of manufacturer, all follow a government standardized numbering system. Tell the DMV drone that you need to talk to the supervisor.

[Guest De Soto Frank]

US vehicles manufactured prior to 1970 do not have a "VIN" number; they simply have a serial number.

In the case of Chevrolet trucks of the mid 1930's to 1940, the serial number is stamped into an aluminum plate which is then secured to the engine-side of the firewall, on the passenger side with sheetmetal screws.

The plate originally had silver (actually bright aluminum) lettering/numbering set-off by a flat-black acid-etched background. The etched lettering had text declaring things like "Chevrolet Motor Division, General Motors, Flint Michigan," etc, and usually that detail has weathered/oxidized away to the point where the only info left is the actual serial number that was stamped into the metal plate.

Some states used the engine number as the vehicle ID number back then...

The serial number should begin with the letter G followed by a second letter ( this is the model code), then a four or five digit number ). For example, a the first 1937 Chevy Master Six car off the line would've had serial # GB-1001.

I'm sorry I don't have my truck books handy; if I find better info, I'll report it here.

Hope you're able to get it resolved; most Motor Vehicle employees are too young to have dealt with cars and trucks that pre-date the VIN system of vehicle ID... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

[CDRoberts]

Thanks, for the info. it should help. My 37 body is mounted on a Camero sub-frame, so I'm thinking that if I use the serial number I have on all the paperwork and stamp it into a piece of sheet metal and attach it, that might work.

[Guest De Soto Frank]

I don't think that'll fly in PA...

In most states, street rods and "re-chassised" vehicles have to get an "R-Title" (reconstructed).

According to Tad Burness' "American Truckspotter's Guide: 1920 - 2000", the model code for 1937 Chevrolet 1/2 ton trucks is "GC"...

So the original serial # would have been: GC XXXX(X). ( The X's represents whatever digits made-up the original four or five -digit serial # ).

If you're planning on titling this vehicle in PA, your best bet is to get in touch with DMV and explain your situation and let them direct you to the appropriate dept & process.

OR, if there is a local shop that builds rods or you local cruise nights, you might get some answers helpful answers there... but be forewarned: if somebody tells you something that sounds fishy, it probably is.

You're best-off getting the vehicle properly titled; it will help a lot when it comes time to sell...

Good luck !

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Bhigdog]

Your PA title will have the serial (VIN) number on it. The truck originaly had that number hand stamped onto an aluminum serial # tag which was secured to the passenger side cowl under the hood. If you look, the original screw holes should still be there. Your truck is a model GC and the serial number should be **GC******. If the tag is not there blank repro tags are (were) available. Just hand stamp the # that is on the title on the tag. Legal??? Who knows. But it satisfies the DMV and if they are happy everybody is happy....Bob

[junkyardjeff]

My number on my 37 has only 9 digits,mine starts with a number and then has GC and then six numbers. Jeff

[Dougsclassic]

My number on my 37 has only 9 digits,mine starts with a number and then has GC and then six numbers. Jeff

Your data plate on your 37 Chevy half ton displays the plant number first, then GC for 37-1/2 ton, then the month of assembly followed by a separation, and finally the sequence number of manufacture. The plate is mounted on the right side of the firewall/cowl side under the hood with two hex head/clutch head machine screws. It is mounted vertically, rather than horizontally.

[jim mothershead]

Folks

VIN stands for Vehicle Identification Number. AKA serial number. On a title or registration, some States use VIN, some vehicle identification number, some serial number. I also have a mega title collection.

  Serial numbers have ALWAYS been on vehicles since the first car was made in 1885, a  Mecedes.

Go to Hershey in the Fall and check out any year, make, model for their VIN plate.

 

Edited June 19, 2022 by jim mothershead
error (see edit history)

[jim mothershead]

Your 1937 Chevy pickup VIN plate is located on the right cowl. Held on by 2 diagonal 10-32 clutch head screws.

1937 is series GC. GC is in your serial number. If no GC then you probably have a State assigned VIN. 

Do not wake up "the sleeping dog". If you have a good title then register it.

Go the the DMV supervisor for the correct info. Have him show you in black and white. in the "book"

Jim, The VIN Plate Guy

Vintage Chevy Club #17266 for 49 yrars

Edited June 19, 2022 by jim mothershead
error (see edit history)

[junkyardjeff]

I have read that sometimes the engine number was used too but my 37 used the serial number on the tag.

[jim mothershead]

Jeff

Can you email a photo of your plate ? Block the VIN.

33ride@gmail.com

Have a great 4th.

thanx Jim 410 474 2244

[Glen Andrews]

I'm not trying to confuse this thread, but here goes. The 1937 Chevy truck that is trying to be registered sounds like a Reconstructed vehicle, Camaro subframe so I figure a late model V8 and other changes to make it a Custom or a Street Rod so it should get a Reconstructed title. I grew up in PA and in the early 50's my Dad took a Crosley pickup removed the roof and bed and made a 2 seat convertible out of it; he had to take it to the PA State Police (I think) and have it inspected, he made up a name for it (using my older brothers' and my first name) and it got a reconstructed title. For the past 50 years I have lived in NC, and for many years have owned a 1938 Chevy pickup that is an original NC vehicle. I have the original title and many registration cards from the 40's and 50's and on all those the Serial Number and the Engine Number are on those forms. In 1986 when my then Father-in-law registered it in my name the state of NC titled it to me and only used the Serial Number found on the plate on the cowl, vertical not horizontal as mentioned in this thread. The serial number starts with "14" which indicates the Baltimore assembly plant, next is "H" for 1938, then "C" for half ton trucks (pick ups, panels, suburbans) then a "0" (zero) and a "6" for June, then a space and four more digits that are the production sequence for half ton trucks at that plant. NOW in the case of the '37 pick up trying to get registered, the first number I believe is a "6" which stood for the Oakland assembly plant, then next should be "GC" and then the month in two digits with a Zero first for the months of J-F-M-A-M-J-J-A-S and would be a One first for the other months. So someone mentioned in a way the mental midgets at the PA DMV telling the guy he did not have a Zero in the Serial Number. The DMV's and the Inspectors seem to operate in a confused way. I have a friend here in NC who bought a (built in 2010) Street Rod last year with a Reconstructed California Title and had a CA issued serial number on it. The body is a '32 Ford (fiberglass)-'63 Buick engine-80ish GM 350 trans-70ish Ford 8" rearend, I was there when the Inspectors came out, they left confused apparently, he eventually received a NC issued serial number tag, and when he got the new title it indicates the vehicle is a "1932 Ford 2 door" and there is NO mention of it being a reconstructed vehicle/title!

So it's like a roll of the dice as to what might happen when this guy registers his 1937 Chevy whatever.

I hope he has Good Luck and all works out for him.

I have also attached a photo of a 1937 Chevy truck that was built in Oakland in April of 1937; the other photo is of my engine and to the left of the distributor cap the pad with the engine number is partially visible; it starts K and an I (capital i and not a number one) and the numbers 803828.

I believe that many states in the early days up to the early 60's used both the body serial number and the engine number on the titles/registration cards, but as engine swaps became commonplace things had to change, so the VIN took over which contained the engine information.