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Here's a new problem


Steve Braverman

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I took my '32 sedan out yesterday for the first time this year. When I make left turns, the hand throttle opens. This never happened before, and is a bad thing. Did the lever expand, or did the wheel shrink? The steering wheel is rubber or plastic I think. Is the lever pot metal and about to explode? Has this happened to anyone else? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

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Steve,

Not uncommon on 1930 and later cars driven in cooler weather.

1. The "sludge" that used to be grease on the concentric control tubes inside the steering wheel shaft thickens in cooler temps increasing drag.

2. At the same time the brass friction clamp that is part of the hand throttle assembly gets worn over the years.

3. Your car may also have a weak throttle return spring. Original throttle springs didn't have much tension when new.

Thickened grease working against weak clamp and return spring can cause the hand throttle tube to turn when the steering wheel is turned.

Try......

Just below the steering box, between it and the head light switch is the brass friction clamp. Tighten the small screw and nut that pinches the middle of the brass strap(see picture attached). It should only need about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn to compensate for wear. Don't over tighten, just enough to have the hand throttle hold position against the throttle return spring..and the sludge when the wheel is turned !

Paul.

post-50968-143137931507_thumb.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Steve,

Glad to hear it's fixed............for now. It's not fully self healing, because the brass band of the friction clamp is slowly wearing loose with use. It will do that "throttle change while turning" all the sooner next time the weather starts to be a bit cooler. Eventually it will do it even in warm weather. It's easy to adjust, so best to tweek the adjustment on the friction clamp as soon as you can get a chance. Then you won't have to be doing that on the side of the road some where with all that lovely traffic you get out there !!!!!

Paul.

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Steve,

Excellant idea!

Sounds like either the head light or high-low switch. High-low has a bacalite switch plate that gets warped and gooy. Can be claened and GENTLY straightened. Before you start, check the Franklin website Q&A index for tips on wiring and fixing switches. If you don't see what you need e-mail me through the Q&A. In the mean time you can pick up a tube of anti-oxident for house-hold aluminum wiring at your hardware store. Put a dab on all wiring connections and paths to ground such as light buckets to light mountings, light mountings to chassis, etc. Works real well at preventing rust/crud from increasing resistance to electrical flow. Lights stay nice and bright. Battery terminals never need cleaning either !!!!!

When you get into the re-wire, if you have any questions just e-mail me through the Club's website Q&A.

Paul.

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Paul,

Thanks for all the advice. The headlight switch is a gooey mess at the base of the steering column. It needs to be gone through. So many projects, so little time.

Do you have any preference for wiring harness suppliers? I see both Rhode Island Wiring and YnZs have harnesses for Franklins in their catalogs.

Steve

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Steve,

I've only used Rhode Island Wire so can't comment on YnZ's. Dealt with them for 30 years and they are nice people at RI, good service, and very well made harnesses. All the harnesses are labeled and include installation drawing.

So's ya know. They offer a four-way turn signal/four-way flasher modification for a very reasonable extra cost. It uses the existing park and tail lights so nothing to change there. Just the addition of a turn signal switch on the steering column that looks factory. I've hooked up a number of these for customers who do touring and it's very easy to do.

It's not authentic, but for safety, think about adding addtional fuse blocks while your at it.

Paul.

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