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63 Riv Exhaust


TexRiv_63

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Classic Exhaust in Geneva, OH made up a great exhaust for my 66. He had the original exhaust on it and the replacement is nearly identical to the original. They are handmade based on original drawings. I installed it in my garage myself and it was a perfect fit. Removal of the old stuff is the hard part.

He advertises in Hemmings, phone is 440-466-5460.

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Don,

If you don't want to go the install-it-yourself route, I would check out some local car shows and talk to some of the owners to see where they had their exhaust work done and ask about their experience and if they would reccomend them. I found a local guy that way up here in Minnesota and he has done over 20 exhaust systems for me. (not on the same car! LOL!) Your local ROA or BCA regional coordinator or tech advisor may be able to help out with some suggestions as well.

Good Luck!

Tim

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Jimmyriv

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where is the guy you use, I need exhaust on my 64 Wildcat </div></div>

Anybody living near Muskegon, Michigan(west coast central Mi.)My brother Tim Linderman

owns Exhaust Special-T's 231-788-4077. They specialize in custom exhaust as well as the

rest too. They have two pipe benders and any type of pipe you want- steel, stainless steel

and aluminized. He only buys heavier pipe than all the other shops and is still very affordable.

They wire weld all the seams, so your system is sealed, no leaks.

All the local street rodders and informed people go to him...

jimmyriv

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the responses, the reason I was looking for a custom shop is I am looking for something with a little more rumble than stock but not loud or droning. And while I like doing other things myself, exhaust systems are NOT on that list! Any thoughts on non-stock muffler setups?

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I recently put a new exhaust on my 64 and I went with 2 magnaflow mufflers. It has that muscle car purr to it, yet its not to loud and overbearing. The setup is pretty much the same as it was with the original single muffler. Now the pipe still comes over the rear axle, but instead of turning in to meet the single muffler, it is ran straight back to the rear of the vehicle and the new mufflers sit right behind the rear bumper (fits perfect).

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Don, be sure to SHOP around before you settle on a place to do the work. ALSO specify the diameter of the pipe you desire, probably at least 2.25" diameter and probably not bigger than 2.50" diameter. Many performance mufflers have inlet and outlet pipes in that diameter, but not every shop can bend those larger diameters without kinking things up.

Also make sure they are using at least OEM-spec pipe, allow-wise, as that's another place they can quote lower prices. It's one thing to have a good price, but another thing to have pipes that will be surface-rusted (not to mention inside of them!) when you want to show off your new exhaust system (visually).

The side issue with any custom-bent muffler shop exhaust system is the quality and configuration of the hangers. Using stock-style hangers is best, but they cost more.

Personally, I like bolt-together exhaust systems rather than welded-up ones. Most muffler shops will do a clamped system, but the clamps they use are generally not to OEM-spec strength--been down that road. Plus, things are easier to realign later on if there is some pipe-hitting-suspension/body in certain situations. A good shop will make sure everything clears before final "nailing" of the system. Muffler shop operatives generally like to weld things, which they feel can give a higher quality job with greater durability, but if they don't get it welded right the first time, it's more trouble to make it right the second time.

Many muffler shops that do custom duals will generally run the pipes as directly to the rear as they can, by observation. Nothing wrong with that, but it can let some resonances creep in that would not be there with some additional bends in the pipe (as the originals have). A balance tube between the right and left side will generally make the sound quieter and possibly help performance, too, so that's something else to consider. Some factory systems have them, many don't, but another question to ask.

Personally, I like factory-style exhaust systems that I can put on myself, with the car on jackstands. Or a similar system from an acknowledged good repro exhaust vendor. Many OEM hangers are also in the back of the Walker Exhaust catalog, too, which makes for a better job to me. Doing some mix/match (main system from a repro vendor and the rear mufflers as described) might be a good way to have the best of both worlds.

I have an old Walker Exhaust catalog that is handy to check for pipe sizes and muffler size specs of the factory mufflers. Helps to figure which system components will fit a lower-performance model and hopefully upgrade things with items from the higher-performance models like it.

It might be more trouble, but you'll need to shop this deal more than you might have suspected. Many variables and many enthusiasts have different orientations to what a "good job" is or should be. To many, if it does not leak and hit anything, with a desired sound, it's fine . . . to others, there are higher standards.

There are many cruises in your part of the area this time of the year. It can be some enjoyable "shopping" of systems on cars that frequent these venues. But you'll probably get lots of dissimilar answers, I suspect. Still, if you can find a shop that many like and recommend, you can start shopping there.

There are also a couple of repair shops (one in the Garland Rd/LBJ area?) that like to do older cars. Their input might be good to get, too.

Unfortunately, exhaust systems are not as generic as many might like to believe they are, which necessitates asking a good many questions BEFORE the work starts--especially for a "custom system".

Happy Motoring!

NTX5467

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