Cleaning a Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve

[Guest]

What is the best way to clean the IAC valve? Should it be removed from the throttle valve body and sprayed with carb cleaner "on the bench" or is it OK to just spray the carb cleaner in the throttle body with the engine running, like in the old days when we had carbuerators?<P>The thought of damaging the MAF sensor (just had to buy a new one) and the hernia of the plastic is still huge. It must be the same as on all the other 3800cc GM engines but they got me for $450. I can't believe it would have been as much if I had asked for a MAF for a Regal.

[padgett]

I always remove them when need cleaning (don't drop the screws) and spray the IAC reall good but also spray and wipe the inside of the cavity to get rid of the gunk that seals small IAC openings. Black sticky stuff.<P>$450 for a sensor ? Did you check GMPD (Flow) first ? I paid that for a whole 3800 engine.

[Guest]

I agree with Padgett, remove it so you can clean completely and also the passages. He's also right about that price. I bought a 1990 Riv' engine for $360 with all sensors and exhaust manifolds.

[Guest]

....my 2 cents...don't spray anything on the MAF. The old way is not applicable if you want to play it safe. i strongly suggest buying a new IAC as this is an important component. Use of carb cleaner damages the internal components of the IAC. Use Berkebile 2+2 Instant Gum Cutter and spray the hole that the IAC mounts into and wipe or brush clean being careful not to scratch the seating chamfer inside the hole....but making sure it's clean and smooth. This thing affects the way your car starts, idles and takes off...! if you're gonna use carb cleaner...then only clean the metal tip.

[Guest EDBS0]

Perhaps you could clean it internally. I just finished a thread on "What is the best fuel injector cleaner there is?" <BR> <A HREF="http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002975" TARGET=_blank>http://www.aaca.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=002975</A> <P>Answers...<BR>Red Line Complete Fuel System Cleaner<BR>BG44K<BR>"Chevron with Techron" BG44K and Techron are the same product because Chevron owns the patent on Techron.

[Guest]

...EPA laws have become more stringent in the past few years and the cleaners such as gumout, STP, Techron, etc are little more than petrolium with detergent. They are mildly effective at best and extremely expensive. Take an old carb and place it upside down. On one side pour the Techron and wait. Now on the other side spray Berkebile and notice....like a knife through butter there's no waiting. The carbon and varnish melt on the spot. Berkebile had to stop making the gas tank additive because the feds determined that it was expelling too much bad stuff thru the exhaust....stuff that's in your motor right now(these guys are either motorheads or rocket scientist). So now their tank additive is as much garbage as the techron. My second choice is Berryman's B-12 Chemtool. Hey....but whatever you believe and works for you....<BR> A new IAC is about $45- $60 but i have carb cleaned them before with no problem. But then again i've also put radio shack speakers in the Reatta.

[padgett]

2seater: <P>That is a far better deal than I got. Needed one a couple of years ago when wife dropped the center cam bearings & could not find any reliable way to repair. Were none locally so had to buy one from Tampa. Was supposed to be (have on bill of sale) 36,000 mile Pontiac engine but when arrived had Olds serial number.<P>Also had cracked coil, bent knock sensor, bent exhaust manifold, hole in rocker cover and sensors around throttle body were mostly missing.<P>E-mails to selling yard were never answered but got good long block and was what I needed at the time. Is still running strong 35k miles later.