New 55 Clipper Owner- HELP

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I recently purchased a 55 Clipper Super. A road test has not been possible because I'm overhauling the brake system. The original engine is not in it, it has 352 from a 55 Clipper Custom Consellation, and I am assuming a Twin Ultramatic. The odometer reads 42,263. What should I look for as far as performance goes? I'm not really worried about economy, but my dad says it should be above 20 MPG. I have no clue how this tranny shifts or anything.

"Almost only counts in Horseshoes, Handgrenades, and Nuclear Bombs"

[Guest Randy Berger]

My 400 is a bigger automobile, but not by that much. I get 16 mpg on a trip running at 65-70 mph. The main thing to watch on the tranny is "flare" when upshifting. "Flare" is defined as engine runaway between shifts. That is hard on the high range clutches. If you experince that, you need to finely adjust the T/U linkage on the drivers side of the carb. Do you have a shop manual? They run around $50.00 for a reprint and well worth the money. It is an excellent manual and will cover most of what you will need. I believe that both Packard clubs offer the shop and parts manual for sale.

Finally, WELCOME to Packard ownership and this forum. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> We are here to try and help each other and usually succeed. Can you post pictures of your auto and also the mileage?

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I have the parts manual, it is worth the 50 smackers I paid, answers a boat load of questions. The electronic copy I have I just need to print up and put in a binder. Speaking of Packard Clubs, are there any in San Diego that you know of? My clipper needs a bit of work, but not bad for a car that was neglected for 20 years. It needs re-timed, the previous owner put a 2bbl on it for God knows what reason, it has been replaced with a Rochester 4bbl 4-GC that belongs there. Hope there is no MAJOR tranny work that needs to be done. The Torsion Level system works, praise be. Interior needs redone and of course, repainted. I'm thinking Black Cherry Red & Black............... I have a muffler shop that has been in business for 44 years, he knows how to do the exhaust work. In fact he is looking foward to it. Even giving a 10% discount. I am going back to the daul exhaust system. Seems I am spending a lot of time and money unhacking what the previous owner did..........

[Guest Randy Berger]

Packards International is basically a west coast club and most members of that club drive their autos and take many tours. At least that is what I understand from reading their publications. I've been meaning to join - just haven't got a round to it. They also make several repro parts.

[Guest BigKev]

Adding to what Randy said PI also has a San Diego chapter which is very active. I live up in Riverside, but I am in the San Diego are quite a bit.

[Guest twinfour]

Packards International holds a all-Packard show and swap meet in early February (I think the second weekend) at the Doubletree Hotel in Orange, Calif. The show is on Saturday and the swap meet is on Sunday. It's well worth attending.

[Guest BigKev]

It's the weekend of the 4th. I will be there Sunday morning for the swapmeet as that is free and open to the public. I picked up some really good Packard parts there last year and several of the major part vendors are always in attendance.

Cheers,

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Thanks, I shall be in attendance

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Well, I guess all the replies by everyone in this thread are gone as well. Does anyone know where I can buy a Tach and Dwell Unit? I've checked most of the major auto store websites and no joy. Manny and Moe don't know Jack, Kragen only has half the unit as does Harbor Frieght and Auto Zone. I do have an auto parts store that carries a lot of older parts, so I'll call there later this morning. As to the lost info, I consider any post made on this thread public knowlege and therefore anyone has the right to view it INMHO. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Guest JT]

Try snap on for one. There are usually plenty on ebay too.

[Guest Albert]

i have picked them up at swap meets tach. and dwell meters the snap on timing light also have a tach in them too..

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Roger that, I'll keep looking. Another question- Power steering hoses- I know they can be disconnected at the pump, but how difficult are they to remove completely? I couldn't find a picture or anything on this in the service manual, but in the parts book, they appear to be in seperate peices. I need to replace all the hoses. I had one develop pin hole leaks. They look to be original equipment, so if one has gone bad, the others are not far behind.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I have a tach and dwell unit. Question is where do the leads go?

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I just got done with the compression test yesterday. All cylinders read 135 PSI across the board except #3, wich read at 160 PSI(guess a freeway run at 80 or so for about 10 miles should cure that). My generator is being milled at this posting time(it ate a brand new bushing)so the freeway run will have to wait. I have run into another potential problem, a loud clacking noise on a cold engine. Do I have hydraulic lifters? And are lifters and tappets an interchangable term? The noise goes away after the engine warms up. I didn't have this problem untill I did a tune up and replaced the plugs and wires(it was running on 7 cylinders). I checked my dwell, and it is at 30.9, acceptable for a DELCO-REMEY distrributer. Another question-my generator, by looking at the part number, came off a '56 Clipper-is there any potential problems to watch for?

[Guest imported_PackardV8]

The terms Lifter and tappet is used interchangeably (in most engines). Your engine should have hydraulic lifters.

See the 55-56 x-ref thread on about p.2 for this forum for parts interchangeability. Just monitor the lifter noise for a few 100 miles and lets see what happens.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Roger that, PackardV8. I just had a God-send fall into my hands, my buddy, who has been helping me do the work, his father is an old mechanic and he gave me a 1957 repair manual for all makes <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> and it lists most of the procedures for major work <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />. I have an electronic copy of the service manual, I've just been too lazy to print it up and hole punch into a binder. My father talked to me today and told me that I should expect about 18-21 MPG at 70-80 MPH. Dad owned 2 Pckards back in the day, a '51 and a '56 Clipper. When I pin-point the cause of my oil pressure problem, I'll let y'all know what it is. Does anybody know where I can get a supercharger for my 352 V-8?

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Does the Service Manual have a detailed inspection prceedure for the oil pump? Also, with the oil pump, Is the vacuum side necessary?

[Guest Randy Berger]

Yes, there is an inspection procedure, but PackardV8 doesn't like the way the casting was made and so the procedure only covers the production pump and doesn't delve into what may be wrong with it.

If you want vacuum wipers, you must either install an electric vacuum pump or use the vacuum pump attached to the oil pump. If you install electric wipers then you don't need the vacuum pump.

It sounds as though you don't own a shop manual? Buy one now!

[Guest BigKev]

Here is a link to the 55-56 Service Manual. You can view/print the pages you need.

http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/news/article.php?storyid=119

[Tom M]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It sounds as though you don't own a shop manual? Buy one now! </div></div> Then it be no fun picking all of your brains. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Randy Berger]

Then I'd have to adopt a new nickname - Slim Pickens <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Albert]

No randy i think we should call you Choo Choo... or man with Ives..

[6219_Rules]

What about Box Car Willie? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Randy Berger]

There's no reason to get mean! Particularly when you have such a good name <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I've been called much worse however. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

[6219_Rules]

Well heck, I always liked Box Car Willie!!

If you have a great name, like Randy, hell... flaunt it!!!

I may be biased though. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[Guest Randy Berger]

Albert, my wife had picked out my tombstone years ago:

"Here he lies, without his IVES"

See attached

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Thanks Randy,

I downloaded the whole manual and printed it up(that took a entire reem of paper). I see that there is an inspection proceedure. I also noticed that the vacuum side of the pump runs the wipers. Since the previous owner converted over to an electric wiper motor(the only smart thing he did!), is there any way I can remove the vacuum side completely and block off the opening? Will that help solve the oil pressure problem I've been chasing(provided I don't have worn main bearings)? I missed the Big 3 swap meet at Qualcom stadium here in San Diego(I hade a life long friend come visit, and he wanted to golf, so we went golfing instead. I lost the game and my cell phone <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />)I currently have a single exhaust system, will it be hard to go too a dual set up?

[Guest 55_Clipper]

O.K folks,

I have emulsified oil in my breather cap and in the fill pipe. I know this is <span style="font-style: italic">usually</span> an indication of a bad head gasket. Are there any other potential causes? The reason I ask is the compression test I did gave me the following readings: cyls. 5,7,2,4,6, and 8 135 PSIG. cyl. 1 130 PSIG, and cyl 3 160 PSIG. I could have screwed up the test but I'm pretty sure I did it right. 4 cycles/cylinder with the engine at normal operating temp. Opinions?

[1955packard]

Ref: I have emulsified oil in my breather cap and in the fill pipe. I know this is usually an indication of a bad head gasket.

What does the engine oil look like? When was it last changed? If the ambient temp. is cold and the humidity high and the car has not been driven enough to get thoroughly hot long enough to burn off the moisture there might be nothing wrong. A car started and idled but not driven regularly can have emulsified oil in the breather and vent and fill pipe. If the oil in the crankcase shows no signs of water, just the breather and etc. and the car hasn?t been driven at temp. for extended periods of time, I wouldn?t be concerned.

I used to live in the San Francisco bay area and drive a ?56 Ford. There were certain times of the year when the breather would show signs of water vapor. Once the weather changed and the car was driven it would clear up.

When you drain your oil the next time see if there is any water in the oil pan.

You can also pull your spark plugs, perform a radiator test by pumping pressure to about 15 lbs and see if water comes out of a spark plug hole. This will only happen if you have a major blown head gasket. This is not likely your problem. You would be finding the car hard to turn over when 1st starting it because of water in the cylinder and there would be water in your oil pan as well.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Thanks for the info. The oil was just changed about 20 miles ago. SAE 30W filled in the crank case. I didn't realize the impact of not having a PCV system and my clipper hasn't been run at temp for extended periods of time. That will change tomorrow. I have to get it registered on base to use the Hobby Shop at MCRD in San Diego(I live in El Cajon)and it will be about a thirty mile run on the freeway at about 70 MPH. I guess my Project car has entered the next phase of restoration- a daily driver <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> This tells me that replacing the oil pan gasket should stop the drip of warm oil from that area. Speaking of leaks, my power steering unit is got a s-l-o-w drip from the linkage(where the hoses attatch to the bar that moves the steering rods), this the right term? I have a Monroe steering unit.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Folks,

I can't believe my luck lately with my generator, its all bad. I finaly got the generator working like it should, new brushes, bearing, armature milled and re-trued, and new bushing to boot, and what happens? I drive it to work to register on base and the generator quits working!!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> It didn't sieze, nor a belt break, but spins and doesn't produce any current. The screw for the condenser for the radio had backed out, and I had thought that <span style="font-style: italic">maybe</span> the condenser had touched the field terminal and shorted something out. I replaced the screw and the condenser and nothing happened <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> I have 0.1 volts at the field terminal but nothing at the armature terminal. I will get my clipper home in the a.m. tomorrow. Has anyone ever had their generator simply cease to function or do I have a ground somewhere? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> I guess I'll have to run some tests when I get her home tomorrow. I'm wondering if I just shouldn't convert to a negative ground system and switch to an alternator.

___________________________________________________________________________________________

anything above this line may be influenced by black and tans.........

[Guest Albert]

with a volt meter on the bat terminalof the generator, connect the field termilnal to ground an see if it will put out then, if not one of the brushes may have come loose, if it does put out then the problem in the field wire or the regulator..

[Guest BigKev]

Check your voltage regulator, you may have a problem with it.

I would imagine that a $50 Delco 10SI Alternator is sounding pretty good right now. For me the choice was because of the traffic I drive in. When you drive the 91 fwy home everyday and it takes 90 mins to go 30 miles, all that creeping traffic is not very generator friendly because of the low RPMs. An Alternator works better at lower RPM's then most generators do.

If you wanted to maintain the look of a generator, but the performance of an alternator, there are a couple companies that make an alternator in a generator housing. But the the price is pretty high for those.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

I am going to perform the electrical tests soon(within two hours). I'll let you all know the results. This is driving me crazy............

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Tests of the generator off the car are complete. On the way home the generator siezed up again! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />. The electrical problem is an open somewhere in the field coils. I am just going to send my old generator to Chirco Automotive for a rebuilt one that has a guarantee. The siezing, I think is from a problem with the milling and the new bushing. I think that the machine shop made a mistake somewhere. Anyway, $149.00 plus freight both ways will fix the problem. Another question, my wife paced me on the freeway and said I was only doing 65-70 MPH, but my speedo said I was doing 75-80 MPH. What possible reasons are there for this discrepancy? Do I have the wrong size tires(P225/75R15)? Or do I need to have the speedo recalibrated?

____________________________________________________________________________________________________

anything above this line influenced by white russians

[Guest Randy Berger]

The 225's will give a higher speedo reading because they are smaller in diameter then the original 8:00-15's.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

Thanks Randy,

What would be the closest radial to 8x15? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> BTW- I regreased the speedo cable. Speedometer bounce has gone the way of the dodo, passenger pigeon, sabre tooth tiger, and wooly mamouth..... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> Any recomendations on correct tire size?

[Guest BigKev]

According the the conversion chart at Coker, a 800x15 is the same as a 195/60R15 radial.

[Guest 55_Clipper]

how could a P195/60R15 be smaler than a P225/75R15? wider stance or lower profile?

[Guest BigKev]

A 195/60 is narrower in width and also the side wall height is shorter then the 225/75. The /60 /75 numbers represent the height of the side was as a percentage of the the treadwidth. So on the 195/60 the sidewall is 60% of the 195 width. The sidewall on the 225/75 is 75% of the width of the 225 width.

Or at least that is always how I understood it. Someone correct me if I am wrong.