48 Windsor Heater Control Valve

[CTraveler]

My 1948 Chrysler Traveler has just a shut off valve in the head for the heater. Every old car that I owned has some way of controling the flow of hot water to the heater core thereby the temp in the car. Am I missing a control valve or how is the temp controled? I have a knob on the dash that would lead a person to believe it was to control heat. When I pull it the fog lites go on. Also does the heater blower motor have to run to get heat to the interior or is there supposed to be a air intake to push outside air thru the heater core? The blower switch has 3 positions but only runs on 3rd position, (fully out). Is this normal, Im trying to get this car ready for a possible run to Hershey Pa from Chicago first week of Oct. Replacing the con rod bearings went well and the engine sounds a lot quieter now but still needs a high speed road test. Also fitted a new oil pump and the proper oil filter internal pts and cleaned the pan of 2" of sludge. Former owner fitted small lines to the filter cannister (removeable element type)and I have the proper large lines to go on from the yard in Minn. but will have to wait until winter to do the change over.

[Guest De Soto Frank]

Traveller,

Whether or not your car originally had a remote heater control valve depends on what heater was originally optioned for it...

The standard MoPar heaters were mounted on the firewall, under the glove-box, and usually had just had two control knobs: one for the fan speeds and the other to operate a flapper valve that directed the warm-air up through the defroster ducts. The shut-off valve was a simple angle-valve at the heater-hose connection on the back corner of the cylinder head.

Chrysler did offer a Deluxe heater that incorporated a fresh-air box that enclosed the cowl-vent under the dash, and provided fresh-air to the TWIN heaters ( one under each side of the dash , with the outlet vents in the cowl kick-panels). There was a fresh-air door provided in the cowl plenum to allow fresh-air into the cabin when desired.

The fresh-air heater is identified by the presence of TWO cowl-vent levers under the dash: the larger one opens the pop-up vent in the cowl, the other opens the fresh-air door on the inside.

Models with the Deluxe twin heaters also usually had a remote control hot water valve that could moderate the flow to the heaters... it is simply a flow-control valve; there is no thermostat control like the Ranco vlaves found in later cars.

My '48 New Yorker has the twin heaters, and I believe there are five knobs under the center of the dash: Headlights, Panel Lights, Heater Fan, Temp, and Defrost.

"Temp" and "Defrost" operate bowden wire control cables, the rest are electrical switches.

My '47 Windsor had the base-model heater, and the "Temp" knob was a dummy that just bolted to the panel, to fill-up the hole ( don't know why they didn't use a plug-button, but I've seen this on several Windsors, so I believe it was stock).

As for your heater fan only running on "High", I seem to recall there being two resistors mounted on the heater switch for Medium and Low speeds... your switch might have dirty contacts inside, or the resistance wire may be broken... be careful when checking the switch out: the porcelain parts of those resistors can get hot enough to burn you if you touch them while the fan's running on one of the intermediate speeds...

[Rusty_OToole]

Many cars had resistors for the slower speeds, they are common to burn out. Don't know where you could find replacements but any resistors of the proper size would work. The high speed is not affected because it is direct wired, no resistor.

If the heat control valve is seized up or shot, and you can't find a new one, Chrysler used a simple valve in the 70s and 80s that went in the heater hose, you could put one in and connect to the stock control lever. They should be available at any parts store.

I know these substitutions are not strictly kosher but they will get you going and they will do no harm, if you find the right parts at Hershey you can take them off again.

[RevChip]

I have just acquired a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker Club Coupe a couple of days before Thanksgiving.  I am currently trying to resurrect it (not restore it, because if is in good original condition).  It was stored inside, but has not been registered, inspected or even started for over 44 years! -- since 1972!  I have removed the radiator for cleaning and repair, also all the hoses.  But I can't seem to figure out how to get to the heater core.  I don't even know where it is on the car!  There are duel blowers with vents built into the side panels in front of the doors.  Also, there is a control in the engine compartment (flow, I think) operated by a wire to a knob inside.  But it is made of pot metal and totally shot, even falling apart!  Is there anything I can use in its place?

 

I am currently waiting for a good rust buster to loosen up things before I try to even turn the engine over a bit by hand.  I filled the cylinders with a half and half mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.  I am hoping the engine is not even stuck in the first place!

 

Where can I get parts for this beautiful old car?  I want to keep it as original as possible, but make it a good, dependable driver.

 

By the way, the previous owner's name is Daisy, who is now in her 80's.  I told her I would name the car after her.  My wife said to name it "Miss Daisy" and then I could be "Driving Miss Daisy"!  But seeing "Miss Daisy" (the car) is dead, I will be "Resurrecting Miss Daisy" first -- with a little help from my friends!  By the way, I am a Baptist minister, but I haven't resurrected anyone lately!  I just know someOne who can!!! 

[Rusty_OToole]

Andy Bernbaum is the best source of parts for old Chryslers. As for the heater am not familiar with the model, mine was a little newer and had a different heat system. Good luck with your project, I hope you have many nice rides.

 

http://www.oldmoparts.com/

 

Incidentally many common parts like brakes, spark plugs, fan belts etc can be bought from your local NAPA or other good auto parts store. The parts are available if the parts man is savvy enough to find a good part number. An old gray haired or bald headed parts guy in a dusty old shop might be your best bet, the kind of place farmers buy parts for 40 year old pickup trucks.

[Joe Cocuzza]

2 hours ago, RevChip said:

I have just acquired a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker Club Coupe a couple of days before Thanksgiving.  I am currently trying to resurrect it (not restore it, because if is in good original condition).  It was stored inside, but has not been registered, inspected or even started for over 44 years! -- since 1972!  I have removed the radiator for cleaning and repair, also all the hoses.  But I can't seem to figure out how to get to the heater core.  I don't even know where it is on the car!  There are duel blowers with vents built into the side panels in front of the doors.  Also, there is a control in the engine compartment (flow, I think) operated by a wire to a knob inside.  But it is made of pot metal and totally shot, even falling apart!  Is there anything I can use in its place?

 

I am currently waiting for a good rust buster to loosen up things before I try to even turn the engine over a bit by hand.  I filled the cylinders with a half and half mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.  I am hoping the engine is not even stuck in the first place!

 

Where can I get parts for this beautiful old car?  I want to keep it as original as possible, but make it a good, dependable driver.

 

By the way, the previous owner's name is Daisy, who is now in her 80's.  I told her I would name the car after her.  My wife said to name it "Miss Daisy" and then I could be "Driving Miss Daisy"!  But seeing "Miss Daisy" (the car) is dead, I will be "Resurrecting Miss Daisy" first -- with a little help from my friends!  By the way, I am a Baptist minister, but I haven't resurrected anyone lately!  I just know someOne who can!!! 

The "heater cores" are enclosed in the blower assemblies. You would have to remove the heaters and separate the housing to get at the heater core.

Joe

[Joe Cocuzza]

One other thing, I have a bunch of parts from a few parts cars so let me know what you need. Maybe I (or someone else) can help you out.

Joe

[RevChip]

Thanks, Rusty and Joe.  Your information is helpful.  I was trying yesterday to removed the blower assembly on the drivers side.  I was hoping to find on the internet a YouTube to help, but could not find much.  Do you have any hints what I have to do to get the assemblies out?  Do I have to take the kick panels out?  I have all the screws and bolts out that are obvious, but I think there is a hard-to-reach bolt on the top, way up under the dash.  Do I take the radio out first to make things easier?  Thank you in advance for further help, and I hope I am not a pain! 

 

By the way, Joe, I am missing the end part of the passenger side window crank.  Might you have one?

 

God bless, Chip

Edited December 16, 2016 by RevChip
addition (see edit history)

[JACK M]

I don't think there are any bolts on the inside, But there will be control cables and the vent tubes.

Take the hoses off from the outside and three (I think) bolts that go directly into the blower from the outside as well and it should be free.

I have many parts as well.

[RevChip]

Thanks, Jack,

 

Sometimes I need all the help I can get!

 

Chip

[Joe Cocuzza]

9 hours ago, RevChip said:

Thanks, Rusty and Joe.  Your information is helpful.  I was trying yesterday to removed the blower assembly on the drivers side.  I was hoping to find on the internet a YouTube to help, but could not find much.  Do you have any hints what I have to do to get the assemblies out?  Do I have to take the kick panels out?  I have all the screws and bolts out that are obvious, but I think there is a hard-to-reach bolt on the top, way up under the dash.  Do I take the radio out first to make things easier?  Thank you in advance for further help, and I hope I am not a pain! 

 

By the way, Joe, I am missing the end part of the passenger side window crank.  Might you have one?

 

God bless, Chip

Are you talking about the "flipper" end of the window crank handle?

Not so sure I want to get rid of any because they are extremely difficult to come by. The handles do come up on Ebay once in a while.

But if you are in a pinch I may consider it.

Let me know if you need anything else

[c49er]

The Lavaliere chrome and plastic flopper type Chrysler inner window winder handles are really rare and hard to find.

Used on the upper line Chrysler's.

They have a thin strip of Lucite clear plastic on the end of the floppy style handle. They are a delicate handle and break if not used gently.

If you find one in good condition expect to pay lotsa $$$$$$.

Edited December 17, 2016 by c49er (see edit history)

[RevChip]

Yes, Joe, it is the 'flipper end' of the crank on the passenger side.  All the others are in good shape.  I figured they are rare.  Thank you for considering me.  Also, I am missing the plastic end of the turn signal, and one other control under the dash, but I am not sure what it operates.  I don't have an owner's manual for the car.  I need to post some photos of "Miss Daisy", both what I need and the whole car.  She is a great 'barn find' that I have been after for five years. 

 

I have run into a problem that I am trying to figure out.  I don't know if the engine is stuck from sitting for over 44 years, but the cylinders are soaking in half and half ATF and acetone.  With the radiator removed, I want to turn the engine over by hand -- just a bit -- to see if it is free.  But the clearance between the large nut on the lower belt drive and the frame is not enough to get a large socket (I think 1 7/8 or 2 inches) on the nut.  I suppose I could tighten the belt as much as possible and see if that will allow me to rotate the engine an inch or so.  I may need to slightly force it if it has been stuck.

 

By the way, I am located about 25 miles south of Pittsburgh in a tiny hamlet with 44 houses and three stop signs!  I have been a member of the Mon Valley Region AACA for about 20 years.

 

Thanks so much for all the advice and help. 

 

Chip

[Rusty_OToole]

You could remove the starter and pry on the ring gear with a pry bar.

[Joe Cocuzza]

I am going through the same issue with a stuck motor on my 47 T & C sedan.

If you remove the radiator bracket (I can't think of what else to call it (brain fa_t) - it's what the radiator is bolted to then you can get the socket and a breaker bar on the crank pulley nut.

also, you should get a shop manual for the car. They are readily available.

It would be best to post those pictures of what you need.

I have the dash knobs. They should be for going from memory:

Panel lights

Headlights

Heater

Defroster

Temp

BTW I like your car. It looks really solid.

I am in Stroudsburg, Pa.

Too bad I wasn't closer to you to help out in person.

Joe

[RevChip]

Well, I took out the radiator bracket, took off the lower pulley, put a 1 7/8" socket on the big nut, and with very little effort, I turned the engine over two times!  Praise the Lord!  I am hoping now that I don't have to rebuild the engine. 

 

Joe, we have a cottage in an old Methodist camp meeting west of Wilkes-Barre.  Come spring, I might like to take a trip to Stroudsburg and meet you, and see your town and country!

 

Chip

[Joe Cocuzza]

17 hours ago, RevChip said:

Well, I took out the radiator bracket, took off the lower pulley, put a 1 7/8" socket on the big nut, and with very little effort, I turned the engine over two times!  Praise the Lord!  I am hoping now that I don't have to rebuild the engine. 

 

Joe, we have a cottage in an old Methodist camp meeting west of Wilkes-Barre.  Come spring, I might like to take a trip to Stroudsburg and meet you, and see your town and country!

 

Chip

Chip,

You are welcome to pay me a visit.

Just give me a heads up or send me (in a PM) your # and we can discuss it when the time comes.

Joe

[RevChip]

Well, I have not posted since last December about my 1948 Chrysler New Yorker Club Coupe -- "Miss Daisy".  Here is an update, some questions and some needs from you folks who are more experienced than I am.  As said last December, the engine is free, but it has not been started yet.  I took the radiator out and the passenger side heater core, had them cleaned at a radiator shop, and only the top tank on the radiator needed to be repaired.  I could not get the driver side heater core out yet, but it is loose.  I have to drop the steering column to remove the heater assembly.  I removed the carb and have ordered a kit and a float for a rebuild.  I also have a new fuel pump coming next week.  I took the water pump off, and am looking for a rebuild kit.  Does anyone have one or know where I can get one?  I have researched via the internet, but haven't found one yet.  I can buy a new water pump from Kanter for $170.54 plus shipping with a core exchange, but that will run me well over $200 by the time it is said and done! 

 

I do have a question about the dashpot carb.  There is an electrical unit that bolts to the carb, and any internet photos I have found show two wires running to it.  Mine only has one, but there seems to be a place for a second.  However the connection does not look like it has been used.  Any information about this would help.

 

The car has not been started since 1972, and the hoses were rotten away for the most part -- if not rotted, they were hard as a rock!  The 'rabbit ear' heater control that bolts to the engine was more than half eaten away by corrosion, but I found an NOS replacement and bought it.  It wasn't cheap!  My problem is that the hoses were so destroyed that I cannot figure out the connection configuration.  Can anyone post a photo (or two or three) of a restored engine compartment?  That would help a lot.  

 

I also bought four new Coker tires -- wide white radials made in a bias ply mold.  My neighbor professionally cleaned and painted my wheels, and tomorrow the tires will be mounted and put on the car.  The hub caps are quite good.

 

I have a very good mechanic who has taken this car on as a fall project.  He currently is awaiting the kit for the carb, and (hopefully) a kit for the water pump.  In about a week or so we will flatbed the car to his place of business.  He was going to begin last spring, but finishing up two other projects got in the way.

 

Thank you in advance for any help and information you can give.

[Rusty_OToole]

The 2 wires to the carb are for the transmission control. There is a switch that is actuated when the throttle is completely closed, this is for the normal shift. There is another actuated when the throttle is completely open, this is the kickdown.

 

There has been much discussion of the transmission control and wiring system including wiring diagrams. In brief there are 2 wires from the coil to a box with a resistor and a circuit breaker, then to the carburetor, then to the transmission. These wires often get frayed, the insulation breaks down after years of exposure to heat and oil fumes and the wires break down. They are easy to replace if you have a wiring diagram.  The trans will still work, in the sense that the car can be moved under its own power. But will not shift correctly unless the wiring is intact.

 

You also have what is known as a Sisson choke. This is an automatic choke unit that goes on the exhaust manifold. It has an electric wire as well.

[c49er]

18 hours ago, RevChip said:

Well, I have not posted since last December about my 1948 Chrysler New Yorker Club Coupe -- "Miss Daisy".  Here is an update, some questions and some needs from you folks who are more experienced than I am.  As said last December, the engine is free, but it has not been started yet.  I took the radiator out and the passenger side heater core, had them cleaned at a radiator shop, and only the top tank on the radiator needed to be repaired.  I could not get the driver side heater core out yet, but it is loose.  I have to drop the steering column to remove the heater assembly.  I removed the carb and have ordered a kit and a float for a rebuild.  I also have a new fuel pump coming next week.  I took the water pump off, and am looking for a rebuild kit.  Does anyone have one or know where I can get one?  I have researched via the internet, but haven't found one yet.  I can buy a new water pump from Kanter for $170.54 plus shipping with a core exchange, but that will run me well over $200 by the time it is said and done! 

 

I do have a question about the dashpot carb.  There is an electrical unit that bolts to the carb, and any internet photos I have found show two wires running to it.  Mine only has one, but there seems to be a place for a second.  However the connection does not look like it has been used.  Any information about this would help.

 

The car has not been started since 1972, and the hoses were rotten away for the most part -- if not rotted, they were hard as a rock!  The 'rabbit ear' heater control that bolts to the engine was more than half eaten away by corrosion, but I found an NOS replacement and bought it.  It wasn't cheap!  My problem is that the hoses were so destroyed that I cannot figure out the connection configuration.  Can anyone post a photo (or two or three) of a restored engine compartment?  That would help a lot.  

 

I also bought four new Coker tires -- wide white radials made in a bias ply mold.  My neighbor professionally cleaned and painted my wheels, and tomorrow the tires will be mounted and put on the car.  The hub caps are quite good.

 

I have a very good mechanic who has taken this car on as a fall project.  He currently is awaiting the kit for the carb, and (hopefully) a kit for the water pump.  In about a week or so we will flatbed the car to his place of business.  He was going to begin last spring, but finishing up two other projects got in the way.

 

Thank you in advance for any help and information you can give.

Here is a late 1948 Chrysler eight with factory design one wire to the anti-stall 2 wire unit....

 

I have only found one Mopar OE water pump repair kit.... good luck on finding one.

As for kanter and them having "New" water pumps....no maybe they can have them rebuilt...the housings sometimes break is the shaft will not press out.

To prevent this the shaft must be drilled out of the two roller bearings that are used in a 1946-50 323 eight pump.

1946-50 323 eight water pumps are hard to come by.... always have been.

 

Dennis Bickford can help and sell you all the dual heater hose parts and design.

There are online pictures of the dual heater hoses too though 2-3 different factory styles and fittings were used..

Edited September 6, 2017 by c49er (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

It just occurred to me that the resistors to control the heater blower were first used in the 1970s. Earlier cars like yours had a 2 speed or 3 speed motor with 2 or 3 wires, each to its own switch position. In other words all the leads were live but not at the same time. There was no ground wire, the motor grounded to the body.

[RevChip]

Thanks, Rusty and Bob for your input.  I still need a photo or two of the heater hose configuration under the hood.  It seems like it is pretty simple, but I can't find a picture anywhere.

 

Chip

[c49er]

I'll dig a couple up....

[Joe Cocuzza]

Does this help any?

[RevChip]

Sure does Joe!  Could I bother you for one further photo?  I need a closer look at how the 'rabbit ear' heater control is put in place, and how the to upper hoses are connected. Thanks! 

 

Chip

Edited September 7, 2017 by RevChip
added some information (see edit history)

[Joe Cocuzza]

Chip,

I found that picture on the web. I can do a little more research to see if I can come up with something OR I think my friend has a dual heater setup in his 48 Windsor. If he does I can shoot a few pics your way. 

The rabbit ear control is threaded into the block and the cable from the dashboard is attached to the control lever. So the control must be oriented so that the cable can be attached without binding.

As far as how the upper hoses are attached could you clarify that question? The picture shows them going to the heater cores through the firewall.

I know earlier in the thread you were going to be in my area and that you wanted to visit to look at my T & C's. Did you ever make it this way? If not are you going to in the future? Maybe you could stop by then.

Joe

[c49er]

These are Some eight cylinder heater styles....six cylinder are very similar. hard to find dual heater pic's of Windsor cars....

Design can vary by year and serial # of production.

Later 1947 and 48 cars mostly dropped the steel tubing as far as I know.

The dual heater control valve and cable orientation are shown.

[RevChip]

Thank you, Bob and Joe.  This really helps so far. 

 

Joe, I did make it to my cottage several times, but not further east.  I thought (hoped) to have "Miss Daisy" on the road well before now.  But, such as it is, she will be running by Spring.  I still hope to see your Town and Country and I will ask if the time is good for you well in advance.  I'm sorry for the delay.  You fellow Chrysler folks make my job so much easier.  Although I am a retired Baptist minister, I preach every Sunday in various churches, write Bible studies (almost 750 over four years!) for my website, Gems for Living, and Hope and I are planning to move relatively soon to be closer to my daughter (16 miles away) to help her raise her six adopted boys.  All that to say, resurrecting "Miss Daisy" is a joy, but also a pain trying to get everything done!  Thank you, thank you, thank you! 

 

And God bless you.

 

Chip

[RevChip]

Joe, would it be possible for my wife Hope and I to stop to see you and your 48 Chrysler next Monday, Tuesday or Wednesday, Oct 16-18 at your convenience?  I looked up your info on Whitepages.com and left several phone message.  I would like to take several photos of the engine compartment -- how things are properly, wired, connected, etc.  I now have the club coupe at my mechanics, and am busy rounding up needed parts.  I hope to have it running and on the road in a month.

 

Give me a call at (724) 872-9552.

 

Thank you, and God bless you.

 

Chip

[RevChip]

I am making slow progress on my 1948 New Yorker Club Coupe.  For the last two months, it has been over at my mechanic's garage as a winter project.  He cleaned the engine, rebuilt the carb, did a few other things to it, and started it -- for the first time in 45 years!  Since I had the cylinders filled with half automatic tranny fluid and half acetone, when it ran, it filled his garage with so much smoke, he could not see more than 15 feet!  But he said it ran smoothly, and the engine sounded good.  He only ran it for less than 30 seconds because the radiator is out and no coolant is installed.  But the wires were starting to glow!  So I ordered a complete wiring harness from Harnesses Unlimited in Wayne, PA -- the least expensive of any, but good quality!  The harness will be here in about two weeks. 

 

My mechanic lost his helper due to an injury, so I volunteered to help about 10 to 15 hours a week.  I have been working on the brakes -- rear brakes done -- and waiting for upper wheel cylinders for the front.  I got some from NAPA, made in China, but they did not fit properly.   A friend, Ed Speigel is bringing me an original set.  He has a multitude of Chrysler parts!  I removed the master cylinder, and it is soaking in cleaning fluid to see if it can be rebuilt.  I also ordered from NAPA new shocks.  I took off the old tail pipe and muffler and a shop is making me a new system.  The gas tank is off and being cleaned and repaired. 

 

In messing with the front brakes, I realize there are some specific adjustments to be made when putting them back together.  I say in my maintenance books that there is a specific tool that can be used, but where would I find one of those?  It measures exactly where the shoes (heels and toes) are to be set before the drum is reinstalled.

 

Right now I don't know what to do next, that is until some parts come in.  I decided to take out the clock and radio and get them in working order while I am waiting, but one look under the dash rather stymied me!  I have been researching in old maintenance books and on a "Shop Manuals" CD I bought, as well as any YouTube "How to remove a radio and clock from a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker" but no luck so far.  I don't want to mess things up by not knowing what I am doing.  Any help would be appreciated.  I have a local antique clock repair guy, but who does old auto radio regeneration?

 

I am hoping to resurrect "Miss Daisy" by Spring, and to be "Driving Miss Daisy" soon after!  If anyone can offer me any help (information), it would be greatly appreciated.  

 

PS:  In October, I visited Joe Cocuzza in eastern PA.  Joe, you were helpful and very friendly.  I surely appreciate getting to meet you. You have some fine cars and projects! 

 

God bless all of you folks.

 

Chip Norton

 

[plymouthcranbrook]

I have purchased several parts from Ed over the years. Very reliable supplier

[christianad1156]

Chip,

 

I know I'm joining the conversation late but do you have an update on Miss Daisy?  I'm working on my car, a 48 Windsor Sedan.  This is my first old car project and realized I picked a tough one!  I have a 69 Chevy pickup and I'm spoiled with all the aftermarket parts and trucks that are still out there.  I've been pretty deep in a few junkyards mostly for fun and to learn.  I took most of a 48 apart in Massachusetts when I lived up there and have a bunch of pics of various things.  I had a great time helping a guy who was selling a very original car in WA but I lost his phone number.  I got some great photos from that too.

 

Anyway, clocks seem to be available on ebay regularly.  There is a brand new one in the original box on there right now.  Not bad for the price.  I would start out calling some of the restoration places that advertise for clocks and see who knows who.  Those guys that specialize seem to know each other.  After you find the problem in the clock, you can probably get a donor pretty easily.

 

I don't see an answer to your question about the brake tool.  However, I spent some time with the same issue of adjustment.  That tool is very rare.  I found an old article about how to build your own but it didn't seem very reasonable to me.  I can dig it up if you want.  The way I did mine was to lift my car and adjust the setting near the bolt first.  I spun the wheel, adjusted that bolt until the tire stopped spinning and backed off just a bit.  Then I did the same for the top settings for each shoe.  Its certainly not perfect but it brought the clearance pretty close to what is needed to be effective.  Wear has been good as well.

 

I don't know if you replaced your brake tubing.  I did and it was one of the few things I didn't worry about keeping "original."  I used a stainless steel tube that was built to the original shape/lengths and has the same "coil" over the tubing where it is supposed to.

 

For wiring, I only have experience with RI Wiring.  They make original style braided wiring to the exact specs of the original harnesses.   have had several fantastic experiences with them.  I went to their location to see how they make the wires and see all the steps they take.  Great folks and great products.  The guy I talked to took me around and spent over an hour talking with me. 

 

Anyway, looking forward to hearing an update.

 

Christian

 

[Spinneyhill]

On 8/3/2019 at 12:25 PM, christianad1156 said:

I know I'm joining the conversation late but do you have an update on Miss Daisy?

@RevChip last visited on 24 June 2018. Hover over his userid to see this. Send him a p.m. or quote something so he gets an email.

[Steelbreeze]

On 12/15/2016 at 9:05 PM, RevChip said:

I have just acquired a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker Club Coupe a couple of days before Thanksgiving.  I am currently trying to resurrect it (not restore it, because if is in good original condition).  It was stored inside, but has not been registered, inspected or even started for over 44 years! -- since 1972!  I have removed the radiator for cleaning and repair, also all the hoses.  But I can't seem to figure out how to get to the heater core.  I don't even know where it is on the car!  There are duel blowers with vents built into the side panels in front of the doors.  Also, there is a control in the engine compartment (flow, I think) operated by a wire to a knob inside.  But it is made of pot metal and totally shot, even falling apart!  Is there anything I can use in its place?

 

I am currently waiting for a good rust buster to loosen up things before I try to even turn the engine over a bit by hand.  I filled the cylinders with a half and half mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.  I am hoping the engine is not even stuck in the first place!

 

Where can I get parts for this beautiful old car?  I want to keep it as original as possible, but make it a good, dependable driver.

 

By the way, the previous owner's name is Daisy, who is now in her 80's.  I told her I would name the car after her.  My wife said to name it "Miss Daisy" and then I could be "Driving Miss Daisy"!  But seeing "Miss Daisy" (the car) is dead, I will be "Resurrecting Miss Daisy" first -- with a little help from my friends!  By the way, I am a Baptist minister, but I haven't resurrected anyone lately!  I just know someOne who can!!!

 

I hope you know that in the movie the case that they used in driving miss daisy was  46-48 Chrysler. So that would be very appropriate. I love my Windsor and sure hope to get it driving very soon. Been a long time coming. But when you need a lil help from your friends, your friends always seem to be busy.