Joe Kieliszek

1911 Buick model 14

111 posts in this topic

That's a sweet car. Are you going to post some photos of the restoration process? It won't be too long and you'll have a hundred year old car. Not many can say that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Joe, That is one beautiful Buick. I'd love to see more pictures. What a blast that will be to drive about town in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You lucky,lucky,lucky...dawg. So many beautiful old Buicks showing up lately. JO BO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

HPIM0173.jpg

 

Currently turning the axle spindles to accept Timken bearings; the
spindles were bent about .070 off the axle centerline and had to
be straightened before turning..
Thanks,
Joe  :)

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Picture%20001.jpg

 

Shown are the old ball style wheel bearings on the left wheel;
the wheel to the right has been sleeved front and back for tapered
bearings with new seals on inboard bearing side. I'm machining
sleeves from pre-heat treated steel with an .001 interference
fit..
Thanks,
Joe

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Buick%2014%20rear%20wheel.jpg
next project was checking the runout of the brake drums; one wheel
gave me trouble as its center hub had been welded up and the locating
diameter for the brake drum wasn't running concentric with the bearings.
I ended up boring the locating hole of the drum and sleeving it.
Joe  :)

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Model%2014%20transmission%20gear.jpg

 

Working on the transmission; cutting new gear teeth on a reworked
double gear shaft. 2 of the original gears were pretty chewed up...

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Model%2014%20transmission%20gear%20001.j

 

This gear was a little trickier; it has a 17 tooth internal gear which acts as a
spline to lock up with the driven side of the clutch for high gear. I first roughed
out the teeth by drilling and milling the tooth cavities before using a hand ground
tool with the tooth profile to broach the finish shape of the sides & outer edge.
It took a couple of additional passes around before the gear fit freely into the
clutch gear on all the teeth...
Thanks,
Joe  :)

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Joe, my hat is off to you. I would only dream about doing work like this. Please, what training is involved to learn to do work like trhat? Tool and die maker?

JD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Hi John,
No, just worked in a lot of different general machining job shops. What
you don't learn from trial and error is all in Machinery's Handbook..
Thanks,
Joe  :)

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Model%2014%20gearbox.jpg

 

Everything fits even with the two gears "growing" slightly from the
flame hardening of their teeth. Also new is a screw in bearing carrier
for the pinion gear (bottom). I ended up using a Timken tapered bearing
with a needle thrust bearing behind it to replace the obsolete ball
bearing on the pinion gear.
Now on to the clutch and torque tube side of the tranny....
Thanks,
Joe  :)

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Model 14 clutches are prone to "sticking" when engaged- so much that later
versions (including mine) have a spring loaded plunger which contacts the
side of the clutch unit to stop rotation.
So on the advise of another model 14 owner, I bought a "jackrabbit" clutch
disk set sold by a model T supplier. The disks are covered with a friction
material (on right) versus the old bronze disks to the left.
Model%2014%20clutch%20disk%20drum.jpg

The old disk drum had to be turned down by about .270" and the slots
milled back in to accomodate the smaller model T disks; also the O.D. of
the new disks had to be reduced by an eigth of an inch to clear the bolts
that hold the assembly together....
Thanks,
Joe  :)

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Joe,

I am a new member to the discussion forum, based near Dublin, Southern Ireland, I have the task of rebuilding a 1908 Buick (we think?)there will be many questions that I could do with answers to and judging by your experience you probably can supply the info?

Looking at what you have already done the engineering quality looks fantastic, I only hope I can come near it.

Most of the car is there but the outer clutch to gearbox drive unit and the flywheel square drive is missing and I have no idea what they look like to show the seller of the car what I am after.

Do you have any images of these items please?

Regards

Ian Anderson

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Spicer%20universal%20joint%20Model%2014%
Hi Ian,
Shown is a Spicer universal joint I replicated a few years back
(on right). I was fortunate that the original on left was included with the car. The square socket on the end of the yoke
often gets chewed out.
Thanks,
Joe

Edited by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Joe,

Brilliant information,very many thanks for that, I now realise that the square drive that fits the coupling and the input shaft aligned by a woodfuff key are missing, any pics of that item?

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Ian,

No photos of it on hand, but the original drive end is around 4-3/4" long. It is made from 1-3/8" diameter steel with a 1-1/8" square milled back about 4 inches. The center hole is 7/8" inside diameter with a 3/16" (I believe) drive key in line with a corner square. Make the lengths longer; they can always be cut back if need be....

Thanks, Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Joe,

Many thanks for the info, I will get a drawing done and sent the the machine shop.

Would you be able to tell me if you know of anyone who has a clutch cover + plates or complete assembly for sale?

As this part is missing I would like to modify it as per your clutch.

Regards

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now