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.Re: Another '29 Project, Need Parts


Guest Speedster

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Guest imported_Speedster

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> How do you like my Icecream-carton radiator cap? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

So, No one wanted to Buy my Radiator-cap? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

And it Fits So Well, to. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tom, Isn't the rear of trunk opening much higher and further forward than your's?</div></div>It sure is. Wonder why?

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Guest imported_Speedster

Yes, I'm pretty Sure they were All Unpainted Aluminum. The block, head and other steel parts were painted green before being assemblied to aluminum crankcase with aluminum rocker-cover. But I paint mine with Rustoleum Silver. That way if it gets spot stained or scratched by something I can just spray on a little more paint to restore it.

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Speaking about painting the aluminum. Did you paint your crankcase, etc. or did you just clean it up and leave it natural?

Will check back later time to go put second coat of paint on some parts. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> She be coming along. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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Guest imported_Speedster

Yes, I use Silver paint on crankcase, pan, transmission, vent-tube and rocker-cover. In other words, All aluminum parts of drive-train.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tom, Isn't the rear of trunk opening much higher and further forward than your's?</div></div>It sure is. Wonder why? </div></div>

The 645 Dietrich has a longer rear body section and slopes down at a shallower angle at rear, so hinge assembly has to be mounted further forward to have enough room for both seat base and back in the shallower space available. There fore a different hinge assembly (that I don't have <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />) is required also.

I've about desided to build my own hinge assembly, using steel angle-iron. That may be easyer than trying to modify the 640 hinges I have. The strange thing is that the Parts-manual doesn't even show hinge bases for my body style, just an upper hinge piece that is a simple (T) shaped bracket (with No spring stop), instead of the fan shaped bracket other models used. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

I'm still very confused as to what the 645 hinges really looked like, and how they were mounted ??? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

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  • 1 month later...

Rick,

In this post #401734 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Black primer painted areas only have one coat</div></div> How did you like using the black primer?

Also was that epoxy primer?

Now I see why you have speedster as your login. You move along well on your projects. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

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Guest imported_Speedster

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> How did you like using the black primer?

Also was that epoxy primer?</div></div>

Yes, on this project I've use Kirker Epoxy primer. I like it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

The black version of their primer is kinda strange in that it tends to gell slightly after the can is opened (their gray doesn't do that), but the Black works okay after it is mixed with the hardener (mixed 1 to 1). But it does go on thicker than the gray, which is okay if you need a fill coat, like I do on the pitted metal. I called them about the gell effect and they said that was normal, 'Not To Worry', and I now agree, it works Great. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I found long time ago, If I don't Just go ahead and 'Get It Done', No one Else will. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Rick,

Did you use an etching primer first or did you go right with the epoxy? How many coats at a time and how long do you wait before block sanding?

When and if you used bondo (I know that is a bad word but some places I will need to use it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />) do you apply it on the bare metal or on top of the primer?

Sorry for all these q's. Just trying to get a system down.

Thanks....

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Guest imported_Speedster

The procedure depends on the condition of the metal or surface. I've found that it's okay to put the filler (Bondo) directly on the metal as long as it is very clean and rust free, but it's usually best to put epoxy primer on old pitted metal. It's definitly okay to put filler on top of Epoxy primer, tho. Always sand between coats, even if every thing looks smooth, cause the sanding gives a rough surface for the next coat to cling to. Etching primer is only needed on new very smooth metal (mainly aluminum), but it's okay as first coat instead of epoxy, on new smooth metal. Sanding to roughen it up and cleaning with acetone will work just as well, under fillers. I like to wait at least 24hrs before sanding and prep for next coat, when doing primer and filler coats, but I've done it in less than 12hrs if weather is dry and warm. Weather conditions effect drying paint Greatly. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Time between coats for final coats depends on the type of paint being used, and how thick the previous coat went on. I usually try to do about 3 top coats when using Acrylic Enamel, sometimes it takes more tho. There are 2 basic schools of thought when doing paint coats: (1) you can do it in many thin coats, with light sanding between coats or (2) you can do a few thick coats, with a lot of sanding between coats. I personally prefer method #2, cause it seems to go much quicker that way for me, even tho it probably takes more 'Elbow grease'. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Sanding first primer coats and fillers is used to eliminate high and low spots. Only the final coats need to be smooth with no sanding marks. Use progressively finer sanding paper or pads for each coat. It's usually the second or third coat of top coats is where things really need to be smooth tho. I wet sand the final coat with 1200 grit paper before buffing.

BTW, Bondo is My Friend, I Couldn't Live Without it. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest imported_Speedster

No, the one on bottom right appears to be the Hardtop Coupe.

The one on bottom left appears to be more like it, since it has Landau-irons, but as you say it's hard to see. That one is eather a convertible or a Sport-coupe like mine. The main way to tell the very unusual Sport-coupe is the 3" wide extension of the body that comes up behind door. The top of the extension is even with the top of door. Can't tell if one in pic has that or not.

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Guest imported_Speedster

I still haven't found any other '29 Sport-Coupes in existance (645 or otherwise)? I can't even find a picture of one?

So, if anyone sees or hears of one, Please let me know? Thanks

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Guest imported_Speedster

It sure is interesting restoring pre-war cars, it's something completely different every day, working with different materials: metal, wood, leather, etc. Today I was forming leather disk into cup shapes for the front brake linkage seals. After soaking them in water a few minutes, I pushed the disk into yogurt cups to act as molds while they are drying. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I have them in my wifes oven now drying them, with heat from pilot-light. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I hope she doesn't turn the oven on. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I'm thinking melted yogurt cups would Not be Pretty, not to mention my cooked cow-hide. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Guest imported_Speedster

I succesfully completely the leather cup seals for brake linkage. My wife said they looked like leather Bra cups, tho. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> Maybe I'll go into the Leather-Bra making business instead of restoring cars. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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  • 3 months later...
Guest Randy Berger

This isn't the only thread that is screwed up. The Transmission conversion says I am the last one to post there, but when you go to the end of the thread, my post and I think several others have disappeared??

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