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Replacing fuel regulator


Guest Hitzzz

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Guest Hitzzz

I just got a fuel regulator for my 90' which I hope fixes my "hard" starts problem. In the box it made mantion about following manufactures procedure for relieving fuel pressure before installing..??? I do not yet have a service manual so could someone explain this process...??? Also where about's is the regulator located on the engine itself, just to help get me started...???

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Remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine. It just snaps in place. Find the little valve on the fuel rail that looks like a tire valve. This is where you check fuel pressure. Wrap a rag all around the valve to catch the fuel & push in on the valve with a small screwdriver. It's just like letting air out of a tire except gas comes out. Be careful because there will be quite a bit of pressure if the car has just been run or the key has just been on. You should be able to see the pressure regulator on the fuel rail also.

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Guest Hitzzz

Hal, after reading all of the "great" input to this Reatta Forum I just started by a process of elimiation ... In short I felt this was a good itenm to replace to try to fix the "hard" start problem.... If this dosn't do the trick the next to be replace will probably be the coil pack .... I've have my 90' for close to 9 years and this is the first problem with the car. Not bad for a discontinued automobile ... The wife will NOT part with this car....

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Guest jim_houston

This is just a shot in the dark, but you may want to take a look at your vacuum hoses and connections. I know from experience that if the right ones aren't connected properly or are leaking (because of cracks etc..) your engine will run terribly, and may not start very easily either.<BR>Jim Houston

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Don't overlook the possibility of the fuel pump relay being bad. If you don't hear the fuel pump run as soon as you turn the key on then the relay may be bad. The fuel pump will run for 2 secs after turnning on the key then shut off. Turn on the key and it should run the pump for another 2 secs. The fuel pump backup system operates off of the oil pressure. After cranking the engine long enough and oil pressure builds up to 17 lbs it will kick on the fuel pump. The fuel pump relay is located on the center firewall, far right (passenger side) relay next to the ABS relays. That fixed my extend cranking problem.

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The best investment you can make in diagnosing fuel related problems is a fuel pressure test set for fuel injection. They are only $25.00-30.00 and will check many different types of injection systems not just ours. This will tell you instantly wether fuel is your problem or not. <P>------------------<BR>Hal, btk@vbe.com

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To relieve the fuel pressure unplug the harness going to the pump, near the gas tank (or remove the fuel pump fuse..anything to kill power to the pump(don't forget to plug it back in after you're done!)).Then run the engine till it stops, crank it a few times to make sure...otherwise the fuel will spray out with a bit of force. Better to play it safe with gasoline . And get the fuel pressure tester like 2seater said smile.gif. For fuel injected cars this is an indespensible tool.

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Just to let everone know .... I attemped to replace my fuel regulator on Saturday ... and found out NAPA gave me the wrong part .... will pick-up the correct one today (Monday) and well try again ...

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Guest Hitzzz

Just to let everyone know following this discussion ... I tried putting the fuel Regulator on Saturday and found out NAPA got me the wrong part .... will get the correct part today (MONDAY) and will give it another try ...

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Guest Hitzzz

Replaced my fuel regulator last night and it DID NOT correct my hard start problems.... Did find out that the regulator is bolted on with 10MM bolts and it is more than a 5 minute job, but got it done. Next I'm going to do the fuel pump relay .... hope I get the right part the first time... one last question(s) Is the ICM and coil pack one of the same or two completly diffrent items..???? If the relay does not do the trick one of these parts will be next to be replaced.... Boy the way this is going and how it sounds I could get a job at a Buick dealership as a service rep.....(oh well) ... also I just ordered a service manual from Auto Info Clearinghouse in CA. $79.95....

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Brake & brake pressure are the same but the fuel pressure relay is different. At least on my "89" the numbers on the relay were different. Turn your key on if you hear the fuel pump working (sound comming from rear of car) your fuel pump relay is OK.

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The ICM fits directly underneath the coil. Undo the six torx screws holding the coil and lift it up and the ICM is under it. Its held on to the mounting bracket by three 10 mm nuts. The cost for a ICM at Bumper to Bumper Auto Parts is $184.00. Ouch!!! Be sure it's bad before you replace. Check to see if the epoxy material is tacky or has alot of bubbles in it, which is a sign of it getting overheated.

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Wish I had this one to answer a few days ago...I had the same problem and replaced the same parts. First, I replaced the relays for the fuel pump, ABS pump and ABS sensors. Found out they had different part numbers, but were all interchangeable (look at the wiring diagram on the top of the relay). This weekend, I replaced the Ignition Control Module. The "coil" is the part that sits on top of the ICM and has the spark plug wires connected to it. I kept my old one. My symptom was having a hard time starting the car in very hot weather or the first thing in the morning. I took apart the coil/ICM and found small bubbles in the ICM's epoxy. I got a new one off the 'net for $127. Car starts immediately on first try in the morning. Secondly, I replaced the pressure regulator valve. I disconnected the fuel pump relay and started the engine to run out the fuel pressure. Amazingly, the car ran for 10 minutes. I saw just how rough it runs with low pressure. I disconnected the battery, then put a shop towel under the pressure release valve (on the fuel rail) and drained the remaining pressure. The lower 10mm bolt on the regulator valve was a bear to remove. I think it was the ICM that was the real problem as it cured the hard starts immediately. Check for bubbles first and make a diagram when taking the ICM/coil apart so you can be SURE you get it back together correctly.

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