redreattalady

Shift Indicator Lights

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The shift indicator lights do not work in my 1988 Reatta. I bought a used inverter and replaced it, but it did not fix the problem. Any suggestions?

I see on another post that these lights are part of a series. How do I pinpoint the problem?

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justfish89    0

Welcome aboard , redreattalady !!! While I can't offer any help in solving your problem , I can advise you to do a "search" using the "Search" mode on the top of the Forum's opening page . If you haven't already done so , please enter your Reatta info as instructed on the Reatta.net "Home" page . Again , Welcome aboard , you're now a part of the Internet's friendliest and most helpful discussion forum .

smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gif

Danny Walker

'90 Reatta Convertible

Red / Tan / Tan W/Black Mldg.

16-Way Seats & C D Player

105,000 Miles & Still Going Strong

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Howard    14

Welcome to the Web's best car forum. There are three items that run on the inverter located in the console. The PRNDL lights, the pw switches and lastly, the mirror control. If window and mirror switches don't light up then there is a problem. First the used inverter may be bad, or the window and mirror switches my not be plug in correctly or have corroded contections. Also the plug on the PRNDL may not be secure or corroded or the wire may actually be broken. Also, all of the mentioned displays and switches may have all sucumbed to old age and they are all burnt out. Are the window and mirror switches lighting up? If so, then the inverter is OK, the PRNDL panel is burnt out. For the all the lights to work, everything has to be connected. If some, not all or working then something other than the inverter is burnt out.

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Howard    14

Do any of the lights on switches(head,parking,wiper,washer), do these light up when you turn on your headlights or parking lights? I thought your problem was with the PRNDL and those on the console. If the switches on the dash light up and the CRT dims, then there is nothing wrong with the dimmer switch. By moving the slide switch to the extreme, does the interior lights (dome) light turn on? Again, if those things happen, then I would say there is nothing wrong with the slide switch. Just what lights are not working?

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Lights that don't work - shift indicator lights, door lock lights, power window lights, cigarette lighter bulb, slider that controls display brightness (this does turn on interior lights when clicked all the way to the right), and indicator lights for buttons below tape player;

Lights that work - headlights (both bright and dim), parking lights, indicator lights on the push buttons for headlights and parking lights and cruise, all of the right pod indicator lights,

Here is exactly what the dealer wrote: r+r shift indicator, check for power none check at window switch none system test, no codes r+r glove box, test powers and grounds at bcm ok, test other electrical circuit to bcm found headlamp interior dimmer open and not sending proper signal to bcm

A strange thing though - when I first get in the car and insert the key, all those lights come on. But when I turn the key, they all go out and never come back on again, even when I take the key out and try it again.

I hope this helps! Thanks!

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kennyw    1

Janice: Here is the deal..............When you open the locked Reatta driver's door and lift the handle and get in and close the door before, {I think 30 seconds]. The reatta dash preforms what is called THE GREETING. All of the lights in question come on for a short time, all of the dash, BRAKE, CHECK ENGINE, ETC, should light up one at a time and the crt should come on and show REATTA. To have this happen again you have to lock the door from the outside and re-enter the car as above. Now, check this out. Do the above with the window open so you can look inside. When you lift and release the outside handle look in at the dash and see if the milage is lit up. This show that the GREETING SYSTEM is ready to do its dance when you [now] close the door.

From this information it is easy to see that both 110-inverters are functioning and all of the electro-luminesent boards are o.k. You are back to what I said in the first place. Replace the sensor and the bad light switch because you now say the slider is broken. If this does not solve your problem then the problem is probably in the bcm module. You will have to ask Paddett for advice on this item. I still do not think the sensor is sending the message to the bcm and that is why your buick dealer said [an open] to the switch.....ken

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Rawja    2

First, the door lock lights are a seperate issue from the electroluminescent lighting problems you are reporting, and is very straightforward so here goes:

The doorlock lighting is provided by a fiber optic cable from the door mounted courtesy light (the light at the rear interior of the door under the armrest with the white and red lens) If when that light is lit, the keyholes are not, usually that means that the fiberoptic plug has dislodged from the housing. It is very easy to fix, but first check that out and let us know.

Now back to your dash and console electroluminescent lighting. I think there is some confusion here, so I would suggest trying the following "tests"

<span style="font-weight: bold">1) At night, with the car in the dark, get into the car and shut the door</span>

You should have the afforementioned "Light Show" with the digital readouts counting, idiot lights lighting in sequence and "Reatta" displayed on the screen.

Additionally, the electroluminescent backlighting should light in the following locations:

On the console:

PRNDL transmission selector

Power mirror switch

Power window switch

On the dash:

Each vertical bank of switches on either side of the speedometer readout should be lit.

Make a note of the conditions you have observed thus far.

<span style="font-weight: bold">2) Start the car, and turn on the headlights</span>

Observe whether the letters on the switch pods on either side of the speedometer are lit or not.

Observe whether the transmission selector PRNDL is illuminated

Observe whether the power window and power mirror switches are illuminated.

<span style="font-weight: bold">3) Turn on the fog lights </span>(switch is located below the tape player)

Observe whether the letters on the switch pods on either side of the speedometer are lit or not.

Observe whether the transmission selector PRNDL is illuminated

Observe whether the power window and power mirror switches are illuminated.

<span style="font-weight: bold">4) Now move the "panel lights" slider switch located to the left of the speedometer.</span>

Does the illumination level of the dash go up and down with the switch?

By moving the switch all the way to the right(past the detent in motion), the interior lights should come on, Do they?

If you printout this page and bring it with you out to the car, it will be easier to remember what conditions provided what result, and when you post the answers, we can pinpoint the exact problem.

Also, if you are comfortable with disclosing what town you live in, it may turn out you have one of us nearby and willing to help out.

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Here are the answers:

First, the door lock lights are a seperate issue from the electroluminescent lighting problems you are reporting, and is very straightforward so here goes:

The doorlock lighting is provided by a fiber optic cable from the door mounted courtesy light (the light at the rear interior of the door under the armrest with the white and red lens) If when that light is lit, the keyholes are not, usually that means that the fiberoptic plug has dislodged from the housing. It is very easy to fix, but first check that out and let us know.

Now back to your dash and console electroluminescent lighting. I think there is some confusion here, so I would suggest trying the following "tests"

1) At night, with the car in the dark, get into the car and shut the door

You should have the afforementioned "Light Show" with the digital readouts counting, idiot lights lighting in sequence and "Reatta" displayed on the screen.

Additionally, the electroluminescent backlighting should light in the following locations:

On the console:

PRNDL transmission selector - YES

Power mirror switch - YES

Power window switch - YES

On the dash:

Each vertical bank of switches on either side of the speedometer readout should be lit. - NO

Make a note of the conditions you have observed thus far.

THE SCREEN DID NOT LIGHT UP THIS TIME EITHER.

2) Start the car, and turn on the headlights

Observe whether the letters on the switch pods on either side of the speedometer are lit or not.

LEFT - YES RIGHT - NO

Observe whether the transmission selector PRNDL is illuminated - NO

Observe whether the power window and power mirror switches are illuminated. - NO

3) Turn on the fog lights (switch is located below the tape player)

Observe whether the letters on the switch pods on either side of the speedometer are lit or not.

LEFT - YES RIGHT - NO

Observe whether the transmission selector PRNDL is illuminated - NO

Observe whether the power window and power mirror switches are illuminated. - NO

4) Now move the "panel lights" slider switch located to the left of the speedometer.

Does the illumination level of the dash go up and down with the switch? - NO

By moving the switch all the way to the right(past the detent in motion), the interior lights should come on, Do they? - YES

If you printout this page and bring it with you out to the car, it will be easier to remember what conditions provided what result, and when you post the answers, we can pinpoint the exact problem.

Also, if you are comfortable with disclosing what town you live in, it may turn out you have one of us nearby and willing to help out.

ANYONE IN OHIO????

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DTerry    0

Same symptoms I had a year ago. Replaced the photocell at the top of the dash and it fixed everything but the console lights. Replaced the inverter in the console and they started working.

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Howard    14

RawjaNYC covered all the bases. I do want to ask some questions. You state that the left pod does not light. Does it light in "light show" mode, when you open the door, get in then close it? You also state that the REATTA logo on the CRT does not light up during the "show". Does the CRT work at all? At night with headlamps on, does the CRT dim? One more thing I would like you to do. Seated in car with doors shut and dark (in garage or at night), turn on the fog lights only. Does the CRT dim? Move the dimmer switch back and forth. Any change to the CRT brightness? Does moving the dimmer switch back and forth change the brightness of any of the switches?

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It's the right pod that does not light. It doesn't light during the light show, when the headlights are on, or fog lights. Actually the left pod didn't light during the light show, but it did when I turned the key. Everything else seems to come on during the light show.

The screen comes and goes. One time the "Reatta" came up on the screen, but the last time I tested it, it didn't light up at all. It has been acting up lately - works sometimes, other times the lights go out. I can still push the screen by memory and it works.

Nothing changes when fog lights are turned on. Moving the dimmer switch back and forth does not change anything.

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Rawja    2

I am hesitant to diagnose this here 'cause it sounds like a few items might be in need of replacement. Also, I am making the assumption that the wiring is intact and un-messed with.

If it were my car, i would begin by replacing both instrument panel switch pods.

My reasoning is this:

The right hand one is definately kaput on the lighting front.

The left hand one has definately got a dead dimmer, and that tends to cause weird operation of the other interior lights.

It is entirely possible that you photo sensor is on the fritz as well, but it is a [censored] to change and your symptoms don't match the "classic" signs of photocell failure.

The good news is that if you can work a screwdriver, you can probably fix this yourself.

Rather than buying new items, I would suggest contacting Jim Finn. He is a fellow Reatta enthusiast who has a large number of parts cars, provides excellent prices and service, plus you can specify that he takes two working switch pods out of the same vehicle ( Electroluminescent light sources' light output dims as they age, so a new one is many times as bright as an old one, and I dont know about you, but two different lighting intensities on either side of the IP would drive me crazy). Anywhoo... you can contact Jim at: jfinn@cpinternet.com

Installation is fairly easy.

First thing you need to know is that the black metal trim plates are in fact aluminum (which is a very soft metal) attached to plastic backing plates. It is important when pulling on the trim to make sure you are pulling on the plastic backing of the assembly, and NOT the aluminum itself, other wise you could bend the trim and you'll have to contact Mr. Finn again. Don't worry yourself crazy about this 'cause if you had to get a new IP trim plate, we're talking $25 bucks here, but be careful in any case.

<span style="font-weight: bold">1. Remove the IP trim</span>

This is the piece around the speedometer and the idiot lights. Stick your fingers between the green glass of the digital dash and the rim at the top corners, making sure you are getting under the plastic backing plate and not just the aluminum.

Give it a gentle tug. If the top of the trim panel pops away from the digital dash unit, Great! If not try tugging it a little harder 'till it does. If you are pulling on the plastic, it is very unlikely you'll break anything, but depending on your car it may feel like you are about to break it just before it pops loose.

Once the top is popped slide your fingers between the plastic backing plate and the Digital dash idiot light slot at the lower corners an it should pop out similarly to the top.

You should now have the IP surround in your hands.

<span style="font-weight: bold">2. Remove the trim from the left and right switch pods.

</span>

We'll start with the left trim pod.

The removal of the IP trim exposed a number of screws packed along the edges of the opening on either side of the digital dash unit. Look along the right hand side of the left hand trim, and you'll see two tapering plastic legs that have screws through their feet.

Unscrew these screws. this will free that side of the trim piece.

Give the right side of the trim an gentle pull. The right side of the trim should have some play equally top to bottom. If it doesn't, check again that you got the correct screws removed (a mistake I made the first time).

Once you have confirmed that the trim is not attached on the right side the left side is pulled out similarly to the IP trim you removed earlier.

Try getting your left fingers in and around the air vent and pull. You can use your right hand to grip the right side of the trim for balance and leverage. this should pop that panel.

Do not pull on the on/off switch below the air vent as that is attached to the car, not the trim.

Now that you have two trim pieces out, you should be warned that the tension clips that you have been tugging against are mounted to the underside of the trim pieces and will scratch any other trim piece it is layed on top of. keep them away from each other to prevent scratching.

Now the to the Right hand trim section.

You should be a pro at this by now so I'll go quick.....

Locate the two screws between the right side of the digital dash unit and the right-hand pod/touchscreen trim and unscrew.

Make sure you've removed the correct screws by checking for play on the left side of the trim.

Get your fingers between the plastic backing plate and the rich side of the touch screen, top and bottom and pull.

Now that the dash is is off we can replace the switches.

Each switch pod is held on by a screw at the top and bottom.

Remove them. You should be able to pull the switch pod out some.

Look at the back of you new switch pod,to determine the attachment method. Generally speking there is usually projections that engage the connector protrusions to lock the connector to the item in question. By studying the rear of the pod you should be able to get a sense as to what needs to be disengaged to get the connector to release. I like to use a very small flat screw driver inserted into the union of these two parts to get them to unlock.

Work slowly and carefully to seperate the connector from the pod. Sometimes when I'm sure that the connector and unit are unlocked but are still very difficult to disengage I insert a larger flat screwdriver in between the mating faces and twist it to pull them apart. This is not with out risk, as you could short a connection out, but you'll have a good sense as to where is safe by whether there are wires passing through that portion of the connector.

Try to keep tugging on the wiring harness to a minimum. You can pull on it a bit, but don't be a gorrilla about it and dont try to give it any sudden yanks.

Once the old one is off the new one will snap in same way the old came off. Make sure the connector is firmly attached and that the "locks" have engaged.

Reinstall the first pod by attaching the two screws.

Now do the other one the same way.

Before putting the trim back, start the car and check the switches for proper illumination and function.

Hopefully all or some of your illumination will be working now and the dash dimming will be restored.

To put the trim back look at the back of the piece and you'll see the locking tabs. These mate with small horizontal slots in the dash itself. I like to keep a finger at the slot in the dash as I bring the trim piece into position to be sure that I'm on target and once they are lined up, press firmly to re-engage the trim on that side. Once it is seated properly, re-install the screws.

Same thing on the other pod side.

The Digital dash trim is easiest if you engage the lower clips first and the press the top into place.

You should be done now, hopefully with a completely working interior light set-up.

If it isn't working properly, it will surely be behaving differently that before, and you can re-do the testing proceedure as before and report the results.

If you want assistance, I know we have a number of people in Ohio one of whom might be willing to help. Barring that I suppose I could take my dash apart and take pictures of the proceedure, if necessary.

I could do this repair in less than half an hour, it is not anything major.

good luck! smile.gif

<span style="font-weight: bold">IF ANYONE THINKS THERE IS AN ERROR OR OMISSION IN THE ABOVE, PLEASE POST </span>

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harmonium    0

I bought  a buick  reatta  1988   a  few months  ago , but I never add any  illumination  button light on   like my  consol  shifter all  the button  glove box  fog   trunk  etc.. and suddently last night all my light were  on  as I put my  headlight switch  on for the road  without doing nothing  particulary,  im  new with that vehicule so im lost here ,  could someone help me please  thank  you :))

Edited by harmonium (see edit history)

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89RedDarkGrey    252

Here's some great info to help you. You should consider becoming a Member there, too- and browsing through the wealth of information found there, and it will help to familiarize yourself with your Reatta. Many Members here are also Members there.

 

http://reattaowner.com/roj/

 

Quick links for solutions to your specific problems-

http://reattaowner.com/roj/repair-information/repair-tutorials-a-information/category/59-interior-lights

 

http://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=61:digital-dash-panel-a-crt&id=181:instrument-panel-lights-troubleshooting

 

Good luck, and welcome to the Forum:)

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drtidmore    222
On 4/16/2004 at 9:45 PM, redreattalady said:

One time the "Reatta" came up on the screen, but the last time I tested it, it didn't light up at all. It has been acting up lately - works sometimes, other times the lights go out. I can still push the screen by memory and it works.

What you describe regarding the screen is common and fixable.  There were a number of running changes made to the CRT unit during the two years that the Reatta used it (4 years on the Riv).  The CRT is VERY easy to remove and the car CAN be driven with it out for repair, but of course you will have NO control over the radio, climate system, etc.  Eddy Voland offers a rebuild service on the units and he incorporates all those changes as well as replacing the common components that fail.  He does NOT actually have sources to replace the CRT tube itself, but those seldom fail, nor does he repair the touchscreen overlay which is also very robust and seldom fails.  The last time I had him overhaul mine (in car and a spare) he was charging $150 + shipping, but that was back in 2013 so his price may have changed.  Eddy knows his stuff on the unit as he worked for GM repairing these units in the day.  eddievoland@yahoo.com    

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DAVES89    339

David you responded to redreattalady who hasn't been here since 2008. However it is a gooid response as we need a reminder as to who we can go to for some of the electrical stuff.

 I also have used Eddie and his service is great. The one I sent him I recieved and put away wihout testing. That was about a year ago...

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drtidmore    222

Dang, I did not even catch the date on the original thread.  I might add that in the almost 4 years since Eddy rebuild my original CRT and then a spare for me, the original has worked flawlessly.  I did ask Eddy if he thought I should swap the spare into service periodically and he did not think there was any need, but I may do so before much longer just to allow all the electrolytic caps to charge and to ensure that nothing has gone wrong since I tested it after he rebuilt it.  

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89RedDarkGrey    252

My '89 CRT also eventually went dark. When I first got the car in 2011, it's screen would wiggle around, then blank out, eventually dying completely (touchscreen still worked). Eddie Voland repaired it, using modern "better than new" components- and now it's flawless:wub:. $150 + $13 S&H, 1 week turn around.

 

DCP_5762.thumb.JPG.f578740486457698b9f0c9b10221e2bc.JPG

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89REATTAJIM    8
21 hours ago, drtidmore said:

What you describe regarding the screen is common and fixable.  There were a number of running changes made to the CRT unit during the two years that the Reatta used it (4 years on the Riv).  The CRT is VERY easy to remove and the car CAN be driven with it out for repair, but of course you will have NO control over the radio, climate system, etc.  Eddy Voland offers a rebuild service on the units and he incorporates all those changes as well as replacing the common components that fail.  He does NOT actually have sources to replace the CRT tube itself, but those seldom fail, nor does he repair the touchscreen overlay which is also very robust and seldom fails.  The last time I had him overhaul mine (in car and a spare) he was charging $150 + shipping, but that was back in 2013 so his price may have changed.  Eddy knows his stuff on the unit as he worked for GM repairing these units in the day.  eddievoland@yahoo.com    

I had Eddie work his magic on mine just over 1 year ago. It has been working perfectly ever since.... Jim

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DAVES89    339

I just went over to ebay to buy a NOS headlight switch and then took a look at what Eddie is charging now. He is at $250.00 which in my opinion is still a great deal.

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