Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
nic walker

Plug wire installation technique ???

7 posts in this topic

I really have been having a heck of a time with my coupe the last couple of months - I'm tired.....

Replaced ecm and coil for 2nd time this am - no change - still acts as if loose plug wire when backing down and also begins to act up at idle. Cools down 10 minutes and is ok for a while. I've replaced a ton of stuff

INCLUDING WIRES AND #3 S' RAPIDS A FEW MINUTES AGO

BUT

I am not totally sure that the rear 3 plug wires are fully

seated - I've pushed and shoved until I'm blue in the face and I still can't hear a click.

Is there something I am not doing (can't get good leverage) to get boot seated - a technique or a tool????????

(all plugs appeared to be burning ok)

(the # 3 s' were gapped at 45 and I regapped to 60 - hope I did that right)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Past experiences show a loose plug wire starts missing at highway speeds.

Pull the plug wire and spray WD-40 on wire by the boot.

Push wire thru boot {don't pull apart}. Check opening on clip may need to crimp it.

Then reinstall wire to plug with wire out of boot.

You should here or feel the click. Then slide the boot down the wire

until it stops.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't there an ignition module below the coil pack? If they are at all like the ignition module in a distibutor system, they are affected by heat. You could run it in the dark and see if you can see stray sparks. One way to check the plug wires is to disconnect them one at a time while it is running. It should run worse after you disconnect a wire. If not, that wire is suspect. You could also take it somewhere and have them hook it up to a scope. Good Luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for suggestions, but most all of the electronic tune up components have been replaced twice now. Just back from extended road test - problem still there. I now have some sort of pattern : Takes approx 5 miles or until heat gauge is at 11:15 and then at slow speed (25 - 40 mph) and light feathering of the throttle (when accellerating lightly) the whole car will shake excessivly - like more than one cylinder not firing. This is totally intermittant. This happened several times tonight and then at stop lights it clears up until I provoke it again with lite throttling. I think the plug wires must be seated ok - if not it most probably would be constant missing. Oh well, and I don't drink anymore or I find the problem easily and fix it....

Hard start (spinning) is still a problem - different problem maybe?? I also bought a fuel pressure gauge and have checked that a bunch of times = 42 lbs with key on and 38 lbs at idle but have to wait until pump stops whirring (6 - 12 seconds) before it will start - no sense??? Grrrrrrr....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Couple of things + :

1; #3s are properly gaped at the factory at 45

# 14s properly gaped at factory at 60.

I have read that others have been able to regap them. The factory says don't do it.

2; I recall reading that on an 89 the fuel pump shuts off after 2 seconds if car does not start.

3; Could this be transmission shudder? Try driving in 3rd.

4; Again in an 89 you can open any of the 3 openings in the EGR valve from the CRT. I know you don't have a crt. The engine will run so bad and may even stall when the largest is opened from CRT. Could you have a bad EGR valve.

5; Did you get the O2 sensor in. A lean condition may be the cause.

6; The heatshields on the rear bank frankly in my opinion aren't worth the effort. Try taking them off. I have heavy duty boots and do not use them.

7; You can always try my computer fix killcomputer.gif but go bigger order.gif

Good Luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First, regap the plugs to .045" and try, sounds a lot like plug fouling (have someone follow you and watch for smoke from the exhaust).

If not that, suspect with all you have done it is time to perform some mechanical checks: compression and for a loose timing chain (also retards spark) - good mechanic can check just with a wrench on the crank bolt (said <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">good</span></span> mechanic).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going with Robert's #3 on this. Have the same problem with my Allante. Drives fine but when it gets to 4th and you back off and the speed drops below the 4th gear shift point, then give it some gas, it acts like it's running on 4 cylinders, but it's really because it is not downshifting properly. Try his suggestion of downshifting to see if that cures the problem. If it does, check the tranny fluid level. If all is OK, and the fluid has been changed in the last 50k [i prefer both flush and filter change to get all of it], you may need to check the FSM to get some ideas on why it is not downshifting when it should. Could be a TV cable adjustment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0