1965 Riv glovebox door adjustment

[moran75]

Hi All

 

My glove box door opens/closes but doesn't close flush with dash - slightly up on one side and down on other...very annoying as someone has now pointed it out...

 

Is there an easy adjustment, much like on kitchen doors?! Had a look and is not obvious, at least to me ....

 

Scoured the forum and the body service manual but no luck...

 

All the best

 

Kev

[jframe]

Mine is the same. My pushbutton latch no longer works, and I think that the door has been lifted at that corner for a long time to get it to come open. Don't know if it can be adjusted, but I see doors pretty often on ebay. Trick is finding one that isn't warped like yours. Apparently the pushbutton being broken is pretty common.

[dr914]

often times the plastic hinge breaks and that is why it does not align

 

[moran75]

Thanks for commenting so quickly...my door i'snt damaged, certainly not visibly..just slightly lob sided , like a badly hung front door..

[Pat Curran]

Take a look at the hinge in the upper right corner to make sure it isn't cracked or broken.  This is the weakest point in the overall design and this can effect the door alignment.  It is a very common problem for the first gens.  The other issue is the applique lifting at the lower left corner of the glove box lid as many owners grab the lid there, particularly if the car has a remote trunk release.

[MikeJS]

3 hours ago, jframe said:

Trick is finding one that isn't warped like yours.

 

Good day.

 

From what I know, I agree, I think the door warping is more the problem than the hinge. I recently picked up a few spare interior parts, and this door was actually more warped than the one in my '64. Mine latches but still doesn't sit flush when closed, but I needed the script on the door. 

 

Not sure why these would warp like this nor if these can be straightened but it might be something I'll mess with this winter...

 

Later,

 

Mike Swick

Edmonton, AB

----

 

[petelempert]

Mine was the most jacked up glovebox door in the history of all Rivieras when I got my car. Now it closes and opens like a well oiled switchblade. Seriously, it snaps open/shut with authority and lines up really well. Here's what I did: First, pulled the door off to inspect for damaged hinges/latches as mentioned previously.  Second, put it back on (still jacked up) and lubed it well at all contact points. Third, loosened all contact points to hand tight status. Fourth, gently pushed the door to the closed position and lined it up so it's flush with the rest of the dash (if it won't fit right at this stage, you probably have a warpage or serous hinge issue). Fifth, take a strip of blue painter tape and run it across the top of the door pinning it to the dash. Finally, gingerly pry it open using thin wood strips (like popsicle sticks), don't let it snap up, once it's reached open position tighten all screws and enjoy. PRL

 

[39mm]

The glove box door is made of aluminum. Is this correct? Constant pulling up on the lower left corner bends up that corner? Has any one had success in returning their door to straight condition?

[RivNut]

The veneer is aluminum but the actual dash itself is made from the same plastic as the rest of the dash board.  Up until around December of 1962, there was no veneer on the dash.  Look at the back side of the door and you'll see what the dash is made of.  The biggest cause of glove box door failure is when the plastic breaks where it attaches to the hinge.

[RockinRiviDad]

On 10/4/2018 at 12:57 PM, RivNut said:

The veneer is aluminum but the actual dash itself is made from the same plastic as the rest of the dash board. Look at the back side of the door and you'll see what the dash is made of.  The biggest cause of glove box door failure is when the plastic breaks where it attaches to the hinge.

 

I’m working on my glovebox door now. Fixing the broken hinge mount. Will start a thread on that soon. 

 

My 65 glovebox door is definitely NOT plastic. It’s heavy like pot metal. That’s probably why I can’t get the damn door to stay open haha. 50 year old springs probably tired too haha

 

edit:

went to visit my buddy whose car was featured in Leno’s Garage…he has two 65 Riv’s he built. Both his glovebox doors are made of heavy pot metal like material too. Maybe 63/64’s are plastic?

Edited February 22, 2019 by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

[kreed]

Have been messing with my glove box door now for two days and to say the least -extremely frustrating ! The left corner of the door is slightly warped  which adds to the problem . My hinges are amazingly all OK . When I installed the glove box light , the tension on that push button spring when shutting the glove box door is way to tight and kicks the door out enough that the locking mechanism will not engage despite lubrication and working the push button spring . Also does  anyone have pictures of the correct position of the locking mechanism from  the back side ? Is there a bushing between the lock and fiberglass after  the lock is screwed  into place ? My has way to much play in the button even though the screws are tight . Also I just notice the glove box door is not square by a 1/4 inch - just never thought about it until now . Know this is a common problem on these poorly designed glove box doors but it really looks like crap if not done right . Any help always appreciated . Thanks

KReed

ROA 14549

[RIVNIK]

It's been awhile but if my memory serves me correctly my '65 had broken plastic around the hinge area which I repaired w a small metal brace, but just as you found, the spring in the light switch was way too strong. I took the switch apart to access the spring, was lucky enough to find a suitably weaker one in the old spring box, & it has worked fine ever since. As for that out of square door I would recommend shopping for a suitable replacement from one of the Riv vendors. I always start w Gene Guarnere from AB&G

[kreed]

Thanks much . I will give it a shot with a weaker spring . The warp in my door is very minimal so probably gonna have to live with it but think the “out of square “ was factory ?... It’s the lock mechanism that isn’t fitting right I think . Trying to find pics in the service manual . When I put the screws in to attach the lock mechanism there is at least a 1/4 inch gap between the the fiberglass and the lock and I am wondering if there is a bushing / spacer that should be there for support ( not sure that makes sense ). This while design was obviously poor to start with as evidenced by the bulletin put out but it is what is now so will keep working on it . Appreciate everyone’s help as always .

KReed

ROA 14549