Ronnie Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 While driving after dark last night I noticed the left and right switches on the dash and the shifter lights on the console were not working. Sliding the dimmer to bright didn't help other than brightening the IPC and CRT. Is there a common fuse that would cause all the back-lighting to go out? Or maybe an inverter that is common to the switches and console lights? Any help would be appreciated before I start troubleshooting it on my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dashmaster Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Ronnie, I think this may be a bad light sensor in the dash. I had to do mine several years ago for the same reason. Dimmer worked for Dash and CRT but nothing else was lit. I forgot what this part is called. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCReatta Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 If the CRT and dash are dimming, the photocell is good. Try turning your fog lights on and see if it returns. If it does then the circuit in the headlight switch that controls the back lighting may be bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Thanks for the tips. I'll try the fogs lights tonight and see if it makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVET Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 I repaired the same problem on my 88 by installing a used photo cell from Jim Finn. He tests them before sending them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 I did a little testing in the dark garage tonight and here is what I found. If I turn on the headlights or the fog lights the CRT and IPC dim as they should - and they will get brighter or dimmer by sliding the dimmer control. If I turn off the headlights and fog lights the CRT and IPC goes to full bright. I think that means the photocell is working correctly. Right? I discovered in the dark garage that the shifter lights on the console, the switch pod buttons on the console, and the hard buttons around the CRT do light up. I have to push the dimmer slider all the way to the right to see the shifter indicator light up but I think it has been that way for a long time. I didn't think these things were working while I was driving last night and trying to keep my eyes on the road but they probably were. There is no back-lighting for the headlight switch or the wiper switch even with the dimmer control slid all the way to the right. Is the problem likely to be a bad inverter or something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 Ronnie, I think your issue is with the Headlight Switch. Try the one I sent you years ago to see if that changes anything. When the problem you describes happens to me [however it has always been when I switch to brights that the back lighting goes out] I turn off the Running Lights at the console and flick the head lights from high to low several times. If that still doesn't do it I switch the running lights off and on several times with the head lights on bright. I believe it to be the contacts in the headlight switch going bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 23, 2018 Author Share Posted September 23, 2018 Dave, thanks for your help. I didn't have time to swap out the headlight switch today but I did try the other things you mentioned. None of those things made the back-lighting on the headlight switch or the wiper switch buttons light up. Maybe the replacing the headlight switch will fix it. If not, driving without the buttons lit up isn't a big deal since I don't drive my Reatta much at night anyway. I let you know if replacing the headlight switch fixed it. I did discover something odd when I just turned on just the parking lights. I found that when I pull back on the turn signal stalk, like you would to put the headlights on bright, that the fog lights come on as long as you hold the stalk back. I would like to know if other Reattas do the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 I've never checked that, but I am sure that when you put the brights on the fog lights go out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 On 9/23/2018 at 6:06 AM, DAVES89 said: Ronnie, I think your issue is with the Headlight Switch. Try the one I sent you years ago to see if that changes anything. You were right. Replacing the headlight switch fixed it. Thankfully it was an easy job. I hated to use my spare headlight switch but that's what spares are for. I might try my hand at rebuilding my old one but not sure if I could do it right since I've never saw the inside of one. Now I have a twilight adjustment that I didn't have before. I guess the spare was from a Riv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 I'm glad it worked for you. Those parts I sent you have been in storage for about 8-9 years now and I was thinking maybe they wouldn't work either. Regarding "fixing" the switch. you're pretty handy so I think you can do it. If you can't fix it I have more for you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 I'm going to give it some thought before I dive in. Right now I can still use this switch as a spare if I had to. If I screw it up I would be without. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booreatta Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 I tried to repair one a few years ago......it did a jack in the box. I cant tell you how to do but start by opening the case slowly Good luck let us know your success 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 10 hours ago, Booreatta said: I tried to repair one a few years ago......it did a jack in the box. That's what I'm afraid of . I wish I had some photos that would show me what to expect when I open it up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 If I remember right you pop the slide buttons off and then pry the side of the top over the tabs. Then carefully lift the top cover off. There are no parts that will fly off like on the 1990/91 switches when they "blow up". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 I see three different sets of tabs that might hold the switch together. 1. there are 6 tabs on the bottom side that are made of metal. 2. there are 5 small plastic tabs down each side 3. there are 2 large tabs on each side. Which tabs are the ones that hold the switch together and need to be released to get it apart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 You first pop the cover over tabs #2, then to take it apart you bend tabs #1 straight to remove the main body of the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 Thanks Dave. That's what I needed to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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