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Cleaning glass with steel wool?


65VerdeGS

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Anyone have direct experience with using fine steel wool ('0000') to clean automotive glass?

 

I recently acquired a set of Soft-Ray tinted window glass (rear, sides and vent, total 7 pieces) that came out of a '65 Riv.

 

The glass had been sitting in a shed for a long time and is quite dirty.  I got the set for a good price so I jumped at it, hoping to swap out the standard glass for tinted stuff.  Best I could tell the glass is in pretty good shape as I could not see any big scratches or other defects to deter me from buying the set.  So I made the guy an offer and he took it.  Now I've got 7 pieces of tinted glass in my trunk, waiting to be cleaned.

 

So, what's the best way to clean the old glass?  I'm wary of using something too abrasive, of course.  The easy stuff to clean is dirt.  But the glass also has old glue around the edges, assorted crud, and a filmy sheen on it as well.  I cleaned one of the vent window pieces and it came up almost perfect.  But this piece wasn't so dirty, and was easy to clean in my kitchen sink.

 

I hear some recommending the use of super fine steel wool to get glass really clean.  Is that correct?  Are "ScotchBrite" pads too abrasive?

 

Your tips on how to get old glass as clean as possible are much appreciated.

 

 

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28 minutes ago, 65VerdeGS said:

Anyone have direct experience with using fine steel wool ('0000') to clean automotive glass?

 

I recently acquired a set of Soft-Ray tinted window glass (rear, sides and vent, total 7 pieces) that came out of a '65 Riv.

 

The glass had been sitting in a shed for a long time and is quite dirty.  I got the set for a good price so I jumped at it, hoping to swap out the standard glass for tinted stuff.  Best I could tell the glass is in pretty good shape as I could not see any big scratches or other defects to deter me from buying the set.  So I made the guy an offer and he took it.  Now I've got 7 pieces of tinted glass in my trunk, waiting to be cleaned.

 

So, what's the best way to clean the old glass?  I'm wary of using something too abrasive, of course.  The easy stuff to clean is dirt.  But the glass also has old glue around the edges, assorted crud, and a filmy sheen on it as well.  I cleaned one of the vent window pieces and it came up almost perfect.  But this piece wasn't so dirty, and was easy to clean in my kitchen sink.

 

I hear some recommending the use of super fine steel wool to get glass really clean.  Is that correct?  Are "ScotchBrite" pads too abrasive?

 

Your tips on how to get old glass as clean as possible are much appreciated.

 

 

 

Get as much of the crud off as you can with the usual methods, soap and water, glass cleaner, etc. Once you get them reasonably clean use a clay bar. I do this at least once a year. It is amazing how much stuff you can get off of glass you think is clean. This will get the glass very clean and smooth. Really helps the glass shed water.

 

Bill

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3 minutes ago, Riviera63 said:

 

Get as much of the crud off as you can with the usual methods, soap and water, glass cleaner, etc. Once you get them reasonably clean use a clay bar. I do this at least once a year. It is amazing how much stuff you can get off of glass you think is clean. This will get the glass very clean and smooth. Really helps the glass shed water.

 

Bill

The 0000 steel wool did not hurt my windshield in the least. The clay bar does a very good as well.

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Use a new single edged razor blade to get that "crud" away from the edges.  They're good for getting most everything off. 

 

I've not heard of using a clay bar on glass but if the bar works as well on glass as it does on paint, it should do a good job.  I've been using Meguiars Quick Detailer with the clay bar for lubrication.

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The issue that I have with using steel wool on parts that can't be removed from the car is that it can be difficult to remove all of the steel 'dust' shed from the wool.  Any that remains will quickly rust and potentially bleed visible red stains.  The clay sounds like a good alternative.  I have also used a razor blade on tough spots.  Barkeeper's friend also does a good job.

 

51Rg204lHdL._SL500_AC_SS350_.jpg

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I would recommend not using regular steel wool or a razor blade on glass.  I can't tell you how many times I have tried and ended up with fine scratches in the glass.  Try synthetic steel wool(abrasive platic) or a blue Scotchbrite pad and different levels of cleaner.  The less abrasive you use, the better.

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21 hours ago, DualQuadDave said:

I would recommend not using regular steel wool or a razor blade on glass.  I can't tell you how many times I have tried and ended up with fine scratches in the glass.  Try synthetic steel wool(abrasive platic) or a blue Scotchbrite pad and different levels of cleaner.  The less abrasive you use, the better.

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for jumping in on this thread.  I tend to agree that using a razor blade or steel wool could result in fine scratches, especially if one isn't super careful.  

 

I haven't seen blue ScotchBrite pads.  I'll look for them at Home Depot. As an alternative, do you think the commonly found green Scothbrite pads would be too abrasive?

 

Cheers,

 

 

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21 hours ago, DualQuadDave said:

I would recommend not using regular steel wool or a razor blade on glass. 

 

If something is abrasive to glass it scratches. Make that turn onto the westbound street at sunset and you will see all the little scratches. I put a new windshield in my '64 Riviera because it would not come clean. New glass is always worth the cost and effort.

I use Rainex glass cleaner wiped dry with newspaper now. Advance Auto Parts used to have my preferred glass cleaner, but they discontinued it.

 

No one mentioned the old timer's cracker barrel trick of using a corn cob soaked in vinegar. They told me stuff like that when I was a kid. Even then you couldn't just go out back and find a corn cob. They also told me about more delicate uses for the corncob than cleaning glass. I don't think they ever really did it. Some old guy told them and they had repeated it so many times they  believed it was their own experience.

 

Try the good glass cleaner with newspaper. If that doesn't bring them up the quarter windows from a Riviera make a really nice fiberglass mixing pallet.

Bernie

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Try the good glass cleaner with newspaper. If that doesn't bring them up the quarter windows from a Riviera make a really nice fiberglass mixing pallet.

Bernie

 
Bernie - you sure have a way with words....
 
Gotta give newspaper a try.   Sometimes the old fashioned ways are best. 
 
 
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I don't know that steel wool is the best thing for cleaning glass.  There's a difference between cleaning glass (to get all the dirt off) and polishing glass (which uses a very gentle abrasive in a suspension to buff out fine scratches).  

 

I have Griots Griots glass polish which I purchased with the extra polishing pads for my random orbital polisher.  You'll get better results with a machine since it can do in 5 minutes what a human can on in several hours by hand.  

Before you polish anything the glass has to be really really clean.  I also have Griots foaming glass cleaner.  This isn't just expensive Windex.  It cleans really well and removes stuff you can't get off with soapy water.  You should wear gloves when applying it.  

 

If your glass is good, you might do well with the following:

1.  Old fashioned cleaning with hot soapy water (several passes) and rinsed with cool clean water

2.  Griot's foaming cleaner (or equivalent) applied with micro-fiber towel.  Wear gloves.

3.  Griot's glass polish (or equivalent) applied with glass polishing pads on a random orbital machine.

4.  Repeat step 1 to remove any residual polish and its abrasives.

5.  Glass sealer (any brand)

 

If you were to follow all those steps then your glass will be the best it can be.  

 

Obviously, polishing won't correct actual chips in the glass.  The only fix for that is replacement.  The steps above are for good glass that doesn't warrant replacement.  

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16 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

Hi Dave,

 

Thanks for jumping in on this thread.  I tend to agree that using a razor blade or steel wool could result in fine scratches, especially if one isn't super careful.  

 

I haven't seen blue ScotchBrite pads.  I'll look for them at Home Depot. As an alternative, do you think the commonly found green Scothbrite pads would be too abrasive?

 

Cheers,

 

 

The green pads will scratch the glass like sandpaper, don't even try.  The blue ones are very lightly abrasive.  I would try ammonia or white vinegar and see what happens.  

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On 9/25/2018 at 6:27 AM, DualQuadDave said:

The green pads will scratch the glass like sandpaper, don't even try.  The blue ones are very lightly abrasive.  I would try ammonia or white vinegar and see what happens.  

 

Thanks Dave for the warning about ScotchBrite pads of any type.  I'm going to go with soap/water/vinegar, etc. to be safe!

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On 9/26/2018 at 5:08 PM, Hazdaz said:

I won a couple of cans of this glass cleaner at a car show last year.  Best glass cleaner I've ever used.  

IMG_20180926_185156399.jpg

 

I've never seen the ARDEX product in my area.  Next time I'm down in the USA I'll try to find it at the auto stores.

 

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One thing that hasn't been mentioned that I learned about from a jeweler is toothpaste.  I was asking about getting a new crystal for my watch because it had some slight scratches in it and he told me to first try to polish the crystal using toothpaste.  It has enough soft grit in it to do a nice job of polishing. I didn't need to buy a new crystal. ?  

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