Correct 65 tire size

[jframe]

I know this topic is worn to a frazzle, but I am close to pulling the trigger on a set of American Classic tires with the 1.6 whitewall for my car. Is it pretty definitive that the 225/75-15 will fit my 15x6 Rally wheels? Car currently has 215/70-15 Firestone white walls, and it seems slightly under tired to me.

[rodneybeauchamp]

Hi,

I fitted 235/75 R15 to the optional 6" rim on my '63 and they don't look under tyred at all (don't even look weary). They do rub the frame on full lock, but that's no issue. It had that size on it when I bought the Riviera  and have replaced with the same size since including the spare.

 

If fitting 5, you will want to check that the spare will fit under the parcel shelf, mine is fitted to the RHS boot floor as original.

 

Interesting as to what others use

Rodney

[RivNut]

Another option on the 65 was the triple white stripe white sidewall.  The original size was 8.45 x 15, but that replace the 7.60 x 15.  Both tires are the same size, there's just different nomenclature in the way the size is stated.  That size in current metric sizes is 225/75R15.  Either the single whiz or triple white would be appropriate.  Check with Diamond Back about getting a new set made for you.  Here is a picture from aother thread that shows the 225/75R15 triple white. Personally, I think that a 1.25 - 1.3 inch width is closest to the original width of the single stripe.

 

[NC1968Riviera]

11 hours ago, RivNut said:

Another option on the 65 was the triple white stripe white sidewall

I love the look of these triple WW's.

[KongaMan]

13 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

If fitting 5, you will want to check that the spare will fit under the parcel shelf, mine is fitted to the RHS boot floor as original.

 

Good advice.  My experience is that even the 215/75R15 won't fit.  As such, I rigged up a "space saver" spare: a slightly narrower tire on the original rim.  I figure it's just a spare, so there's no need to pay full freight for a tire that will (hopefully) never get used -- but if it does, it's more than adequate to get me where I'm going.

[NC1968Riviera]

You can use this tire size comparison tool to determine which different tires sizes have same outside diameter, (and other factors as well)

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

[jframe]

23 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

 

Good advice.  My experience is that even the 215/75R15 won't fit.  As such, I rigged up a "space saver" spare: a slightly narrower tire on the original rim.  I figure it's just a spare, so there's no need to pay full freight for a tire that will (hopefully) never get used -- but if it does, it's more than adequate to get me where I'm going.

No danger on the spare. I replaced it with an American Classic 215/75-15 after the car was wrecked. It fit fine, but there sure isn't much room on that shelf. I was just wanting to confirm the 225/75 would fit. Think the car would sit better. Just ordered 4 new ball joints as well; no sense sticking the old ones back in since I will be replacing springs as well.

[KongaMan]

17 minutes ago, jframe said:

Just ordered 4 new ball joints as well; no sense sticking the old ones back in since I will be replacing springs as well.

 

Remember that the upper ball joints are spot welded into the control arms (if they're the originals).  You'll want to cut those welds to press out the ball joints.  As a more practical matter, are you sure the upper ball joints are bad?  In my experience, the uppers usually last longer, and the available replacements are generally of uncertain origin and dubious quality.  You can still get the lowers from Moog, McQuay Norris, etc.

 

As long as you're ripping the front end apart, you might as well replace the LCA bushings, reaction rod bushings, stabilizer links, and stabilizer bushings also.  Don't forget to loosen the LCA bushings before dropping the control arms, and don't torque them down until they are fully weighted.

 

And if everything's apart, pull the upper control arm and give the shaft an extra turn off of center to move it back a bit.  That will give you more adjustment room to get the positive caster you want for radials.

[jframe]

42 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

 

Remember that the upper ball joints are spot welded into the control arms (if they're the originals).  You'll want to cut those welds to press out the ball joints.  As a more practical matter, are you sure the upper ball joints are bad?  In my experience, the uppers usually last longer, and the available replacements are generally of uncertain origin and dubious quality.  You can still get the lowers from Moog, McQuay Norris, etc.

 

As long as you're ripping the front end apart, you might as well replace the LCA bushings, reaction rod bushings, stabilizer links, and stabilizer bushings also.  Don't forget to loosen the LCA bushings before dropping the control arms, and don't torque them down until they are fully weighted.

 

And if everything's apart, pull the upper control arm and give the shaft an extra turn off of center to move it back a bit.  That will give you more adjustment room to get the positive caster you want for radials.

Good advice. I have already done all the sway bar stuff and the strut rod bushings, as well as the Panhard bar bushings in the rear. If the upper ball joints are good, I will just return them to Rock Auto. They should be pretty good stuff; made by Proforged. Haven't done the control arm bushings yet. Are the uppers generally replaced as shaft assemblies?