RichBad

1928 Series 128/129 Fast Four engine rebuild

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Finally got my engine parts back from the machine shop - after a year!  Getting everything cleaned up and ready for re-assembly and wanted to check a few things.  Bob, I know you told me some of the correct clearances - I should have written them down:)

 

Mains are 0.0022”

Big ends are 0.0018”

Cap-shim interference - 0.004”

crank end float 0.005”

Piston clearance 0.0025”

Ring gap - 0.008”

 

Main bearing torque - 60lbs? (This is what they used when the shop linebored the bearings and they stamped on the case by no.1 bearing).

 

Big end torque??

 

The main bearing oil grooves look pretty good but the big ends grooves look a little dodgy.  I think that should be ok as they have the correct ‘x’ pattern.  Bob, you mentioned that they should have a chamfer running into the split line on both sides?  Mine doesn’t have this, is it something I should add?  Any photos?

 

Big Ends

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Rear main

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Centre main

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Every thing looks good  , groves are good and yes there should be a chamfer on both sides of the metaled bearing begining and endind  1/8 inch from the the outer edges on all bearings , see if i can find a pic . The main caps to what they had and big ends about 40 to 45 foot pounds .

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Perfect, thanks Bob - time for the dremel:)

 

Next Q :)  I’m putting the oil gallery plugs back in the block before painting and the rear one has a step.  I’m guessing it’s just to locate the oil tube in place but it had quite a long threaded section so I thought maybe it is supposed to be a flow adjuster for the rear bearing in which case I probably don’t want to screw it all the way in?  

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Ok some one all ways comes up with something i have not had the need to remove , so will have a look at it in morning before work and let you know bob

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Thanks Bob - I’m pretty sure it’s to retain the tube and stop it rotating when you put the plugs in each end otherwise there doesn’t appear to be anything stopping tube rotation which would probably shorten the engine life (as it would cut all the feed to the bearings).  Just odd that it’s so long - perhaps to cover the tolerances you get in the block?

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Cleaned and countersunk the oil holes in the rods and added the chamfer to the bearings on the split line.

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Refaced the valve spring retainers as the retaining pins had worn quite large grooves.  Also got some new dowel pins as the retaining pins were so worn they were almost square.

804525FC-68D0-467E-B3D9-B39874B0A329.thumb.jpeg.7b7a04906d5512f6a1f3e051f2f32bfd.jpeg

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Next question - do the head studs need to be sealed into the block?  I see that they go through to the water jacket and the old ones that were removed had Teflon thread sealer on them.  I guess a stud lock is probably a good idea and that would probably seal the threads?

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I had to use a sealer on the new studs that I fitted to my Senior 6 as they leaked so I would assume that you would need to do the same

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Bob, papers arrived today - many thanks.  I’ll read them this evening and scan a copy at work tomorrow.  Thanks for your help I’d be lost without it!

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Engine parts painted and ready to go back together - thanks to Matt (mattml430) for painting it and the engine stand!!

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Block up on the stand and cleaned again.  It’s been decreased, power washed, hot tanked, wire brushed, decreased again, power washed again and still getting dirt out of the oil galleries!  Bob, your notes came in handy as I made up a ‘U’ shaped tube for my airline which helps get in to the cavities.  Also got a great bottle brush kit from Moroso which has some long ones which do the full length of the oil tube.

 

first step, engine bolted to rear mount and oil gallery blanking plugs fitted.

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Crankshaft in, felt a little tight to start with but as I gradually increased the torque on the bolts it became very smooth to turn.  Torqued to 60lb (some a tiny bit more to get the split pin holes lined up).  Don’t forget to fit the oil slinger upper trough to the block before fitting the crank:)B9FE0A0E-BA54-45B6-A225-6D9564E98D7A.thumb.jpeg.9f6608320e0b58e8bd8910af9ec9a55b.jpeg

 

Camshaft and oil pump fitted (camshaft needs to go in first).

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Cam followers and valves fitted.

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Fitted manifold and water pump studs (used thread lock to seal as they all go into the water jacket).  Tappet covers fitted to keep the dust out - still need to set the gaps.E3D0E5A2-F5D8-4195-BF15-05B7C0AAF7DE.thumb.jpeg.e2adfddaf083df58cd73c500a7a7a1f2.jpeg

 

Pistons fitted and caps torqued to 45lbs, still feels nice and smooth to turn by hand.

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Looking beautiful. Sounds like a good build going on.

 

How was the engine painted in the factory? Assembled or as parts? If assembled, which seems more likely coz there is a lot less masking, the valve covers would be engine colour?

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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:

Looking beautiful. Sounds like a good build going on.

 

How was the engine painted in the factory? Assembled or as parts? If assembled, which seems more likely coz there is a lot less masking, the valve covers would be engine colour?

Probably all as one but I’m not too worried about that - as soon as you remove anything for repair it breaks that anyway and can result in paint chipping/peeing at joints.  I did the covers black as I prefer the look, it’s powder coat so probably a little more harder wearing (as they’ll be on and off for adjustments) and also won’t show fingerprints soo much:)

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Anyone know where this cork gasket goes?  My gasket set had this and a felt strip.  The felt strip looks like it fits on the rear bearing cap to seal against the sump but not sure about the cork.  It looks like there should be something that goes on the rear cover to seal the cover to the sump but I would have thought that would be felt not cork?image.thumb.jpg.d21dd044cbfeaa7212c0f2335a1edbb6.jpg

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Apparently the cork strip is for an earlier version of fast four engine and it seals at the front of the sump.  Anyway, got my sump on now and it looks good with the fresh galv finish. Next step is the timing cover end.

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Bu&&er - spoke too soon.  Flywheel bolts need to go into the crankshaft before you fit the sump!  Oh well, will call that one a trial fit:)

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OHH SHT, I think I’m done - was just about finished on the engine rebuild, torquing the head bolts and it was all looking good...

 

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Was going up in gradual steps and was at 35lbs, heard a slightly strange crack when tightening one nut but it tightened ok so I thought it must have just been something settling, finished torquing all the bolts and then while looking around the engine saw this

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its two cracks between cylinders 1&2 on the starter side.  I’m guessing I’m stuffed and its start again from scratch with a new block (if I can find one). I can’t believe it, having spent so much $ on the block work (resleeving, bearings, guides etc) and a year waiting it’s all gone:(

im going to bed to cry!

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