Dr.Friesz Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Well I read some of the conversations that people engaged in about another 64 cadillac not cranking over. Well mines a little different, i replaced the starter solenoid and I arced the terminals and the cadi fired right up! But when I turn the ignition to start it I get a ping noise from under the dash as if the battery cables would be loose or something but they are tight. I have no clue what to make if it haha. Anyone have any suggestions ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Neutral start switch out of adjustment? It's at the base of the steering column inside the car. A parking valet killed mine, many years ago, probably by slamming the shifter into PARK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 If that noise is a solenoid clicking it could be the new solenoid is bad. Might take two people to find what is pinging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 33 minutes ago, JACK M said: If that noise is a solenoid clicking it could be the new solenoid is bad. Might take two people to find what is pinging. He says that when he shorts the terminals on the solenoid directly, the car starts just fine, which suggests that the solenoid is not the problem. More likely the problem is excessive resistance in the start circuit, which is a frequent problem with GMs. An ohmmeter is your friend in a situation like this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Friesz Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 24 minutes ago, joe_padavano said: He says that when he shorts the terminals on the solenoid directly, the car starts just fine, which suggests that the solenoid is not the problem. More likely the problem is excessive resistance in the start circuit, which is a frequent problem with GMs. An ohmmeter is your friend in a situation like this. Which part of the circuit would you suggest I check with the ohmmeter? The ping noise is most prominant to the left side of the steering wheel almost as if it could be in the fender or in the fire wall near the fender. Any suggestions where to start first would be excelent!! Thank you all immensely for your feed back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 18 minutes ago, Dr.Friesz said: Which part of the circuit would you suggest I check with the ohmmeter? ALL of it. Start at the starter solenoid, where you know it works, and trace the circuit backwards until it doesn't. Look for excessive voltage drop and resistance at connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 When you say you arc the terminals of the solenoid are you referring to the two big terminals or the battery side to the small S' terminal? This would make a huge difference in how to diagnose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr.Friesz Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 I arc the positive terminal to the blue wire on the solenoid and the car starts right up no problem. But it wont turn over from the ignition so im trying to find the bad curcuit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 49 minutes ago, JACK M said: When you say you arc the terminals of the solenoid are you referring to the two big terminals or the battery side to the small S' terminal? This would make a huge difference in how to diagnose. Simply arcing across the two large terminals will cause the starter to spin but will not engage the solenoid, so the Bendix will not engage the flywheel and the car would not start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 (edited) GM starters have three connections on the top solenoid part. 1. Battery cable connecting to BIG terminal in the middle. There are also other much smaller wires connected here that bring power into the car that need energy. 2. A little connection that is energized ONLY when the solenoid has engaged the flywheel. This wire brings full 12v power to the coil The dash switch sends a resisted (less than 12v) to the points/coil when it is is the run position and no power to the coil when in the crank position. So this powers the spark when cranking. 3. A little connection that receives 12v from the dash switch when it is in the crank position. Apply 12v here and the power goes thru the winding's on the solenoid, magnetizing the 'slug' inside the solenoid which pulls the starter pinion gear into the flywheel. When the solenoid slug has hit the end of travel it makes the connection between the battery cable and the starter motor. NOTE: There is also a 4th connection on the solenoid. It is a thick piece of copper that comes out of the starter motor and bolts to the solenoid. This connection is bolted in place when the starter and solenoid are joined before installation and not touched after installation. Assumption: You are using a jumper wire to send 12v to the little solenoid connection which activates the starter and it runs. This means that the starter assembly works (and it's associated wires) Now get out your test light. Test: When you turn the key inside does it send 12v to this same wire? (likely not because if it did you would not be having a problem) Trouble shooting goal: Why isn't the key sending 12v to the starter? Suggestions of things to check: Is 12v getting inside to the key? Are the plugs on the firewall clean and solid? How about the wires from the firewall behind the dash up to the key? Is the key sending 12v to the terminal on the back of the switch when it is turned to the start/crank position? Key switches can fall apart inside and look OK on the outside. FYI - The power to the starter, from the key, is routed thru the neutral safety switch. Is the neutral switch passing along the 12v from the key to the starter? check both sides of the neutral switch. This should get you started. Good luck. Edited August 22, 2018 by m-mman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 2 minutes ago, m-mman said: GM starters have three connections on the top solenoid part. Four, actually. Battery in Battery out Start (S) Ignition bypass (R) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m-mman Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 (edited) 7 minutes ago, m-mman said: NOTE: There is also a 4th connection on the solenoid. It is a thick piece of copper that comes out of the starter motor and bolts to the solenoid. This connection is bolted in place when the starter and solenoid are joined before installation and not touched after installation. OP do not get confused. The solenoid in the image above is upside down from the orientation it would have when installed. Edited August 22, 2018 by m-mman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
54vicky Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 it has been a long time since owning a mid sixties gm.but if they used the through firewall {cowl} wiring plug where the engine side wire harness plugged into the cab wiring harness I would check there for a poor connection where the male and female connect.I have seen factory under coating melted into it causing a problem.I say that because you said noise came from left side that is where plug is.also found same on other makes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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